C34 Stagea Reliability

[GRK35L]

Hi all,

I have recently sold my V35 and am looking to move into a C34 nissan stagea as a daily. I am looking at a series 2 model and was wondering how the car is in terms of reliability? I will be using the car as a daily so it is important to know that the thing will be reliable and be hassle free. The particular example I am going to look at is completely stock standard and I plan to leave it that way (lets see how long that lasts) to keep it reliable as a daily (I am going to purchase a weekender as a toy shortly). The only mod I may complete is a Stereo upgrade but that is it.

As said before the example I am looking at is bone stock with 84 200km on the dash. The owner is doing the whole moving over seas thing and I will be getting the car inspected before purchase.

Now I have looked at the C34 buyers guide before but I just would like owners to comment on reliability and common problems that occur on the stagea.

I appreciate any feedback given.

I am going to look at the car this weekend.

Thanks

[KiwiRS4T]

I am on my 3rd C34 (Sold the first one because it wasn't a turbo, wrote off the second one) and I would say they are very reliable. the only problems I have observed with others are fuel pump failures and starter motor failure. Starter motors and alternators are often replaced in all types of vehicles after a high mileage and the same could be said of electric fuel pumps. At 84,000 if genuine you shouldn't have any problems.

With very high mileage examples you will of course need plugs and possibly coils but neither of these will leave you stuck at the side of the road - you will notice if they start breaking down.

[BigBoyDan]

Coming up to 4 years now, coilpacks being the only problem. Keep the servicing up to date and you'll get a few 100 thousand

[Cowboy1600]

Coil packs, rear left wheel bearing and rust under mirrors are about the only issues to expect.

Other than that, they are a mix of essentially an R33 GTR (drivetrain [note ESSENTIALLY]) and R34 GTT (engine). The rest is typical Nissan.

I've got two sunroofs, neither leak. Everything else is tight, box doesn't crunch, all the various handles and buttons still work etc etc (on car with 125,000ks).

I'd replace the o2 sensor the moment you get it home and give it an oil change with filter. Get box and diff fluids changed as well, just so you know precisely when it was all done last.

Other than that you should get years of happy motoring. Just be aware that they are heavier than a Skyline so do use a bit more fuel. I get about 14L/100ks with generally spirited driving (12psi) and pretty much no long trips (it's all either a blast across from Hurstbridge to Laurimar or a slow shuffle around Hurstbridge, Eltham, Diamond Creek and G'boro).

I'm really beginning to gel with my Stag and love it nearly as much as I did my 33. The practicality of a station wagon really is shit hot. My first car was a shaggonwagon and I fecking loved the room. Now I've got the room with comfort and performance! Winning!

[GRK35L]

thanks for the advice guys , If all goes well I could by a stag owner by the end of the weekend

[GRK35L]

The practicality is the whole reason I want one. as for fuel consumption that is a little less than the V35 so that is fine with me. If I get this one for the right price it will leave me enough $ to do all the fluid changes and such.

Coil packs, rear left wheel bearing and rust under mirrors are about the only issues to expect.

Other than that, they are a mix of essentially an R33 GTR (drivetrain [note ESSENTIALLY]) and R34 GTT (engine). The rest is typical Nissan.

I've got two sunroofs, neither leak. Everything else is tight, box doesn't crunch, all the various handles and buttons still work etc etc (on car with 125,000ks).

I'd replace the o2 sensor the moment you get it home and give it an oil change with filter. Get box and diff fluids changed as well, just so you know precisely when it was all done last.

Other than that you should get years of happy motoring. Just be aware that they are heavier than a Skyline so do use a bit more fuel. I get about 14L/100ks with generally spirited driving (12psi) and pretty much no long trips (it's all either a blast across from Hurstbridge to Laurimar or a slow shuffle around Hurstbridge, Eltham, Diamond Creek and G'boro).

I'm really beginning to gel with my Stag and love it nearly as much as I did my 33. The practicality of a station wagon really is shit hot. My first car was a shaggonwagon and I fecking loved the room. Now I've got the room with comfort and performance! Winning!

[180fan]

I've had mine for coming up on 3 years now and its at 154xxx km's, I havent had any issues at all. Keep it regularly serviced and it should last you a long time.

[wolverine]

I am on my 3rd C34 (Sold the first one because it wasn't a turbo, wrote off the second one) and I would say they are very reliable. the only problems I have observed with others are fuel pump failures and starter motor failure. Starter motors and alternators are often replaced in all types of vehicles after a high mileage and the same could be said of electric fuel pumps. At 84,000 if genuine you shouldn't have any problems.

With very high mileage examples you will of course need plugs and possibly coils but neither of these will leave you stuck at the side of the road - you will notice if they start breaking down.

Geez, Bob you have been unlucky with starters and alternators.

[wolverine]

The real advantage of the C34 is that modifying the car for more performance is a well worn path with pretty consistent and reliable results, additionally there is a large choice of parts.

[66yostagea]

Have had an S1 for 6 years. Only problem, not caused by me, the AF meter konked. Got 166k on it. Have another that has done same ks and the starter motor is on the way out.

[KiwiRS4T]

Geez, Bob you have been unlucky with starters and alternators.

No I was talking generally - I have just had to recond one starter!

[wolverine]

That sounds more like it.

[StageaMang]

i bought a 1999 S2, RS4-S 5 speed with 64,000 on the clock for $15,000 3 years ago. so its a R34 engine with the R33 GTR running gear.

Best car i have ever had, its a wagon but drives and sticks to the road like a sedan. The response through the steering wheel is like driving a go-cart so fast and nimble.

Im a hills driver and its unreal what you can get away with man. (i used to have a RX7 half the weight and i can go harder in this thing that that.)

The turbo's are puss though, they are made from plastic well nylon bearings anyway so if you want to do hard hills driving (on off boost heaps) you will melt and warp the internals of the turbo eventually.

I got to 80,000 in mine and the turbo was literally melted.

Decided to go for a rebuild/ high flow on the turbo insted of bolting some massive lagy snail on it. The rebuild was 2000 buks and the thing is indestructible now. it can take over 20psi boost

Did an exhaust, air pod, mid sized inter-cooler (i recon big inter-coolers promote lag), new shockers and clutch just recently and the thing is a dream to drive and it blows off new Holden's and Fords with out an issue.

I can put our new born in it and drive normally/ sensible and when he and the misses are out, i can Cain the crap out of it and not have to worry.

If you drive these cars like a nanna then you never have an issue.

If you like to give it some stick then u will go through the normal clutches frequent oil and filter changes, tyres etc alot more. but thats with any car, the difference whit these things u feel safe and in control doing it.

I really feel like i ranted on a bit dude but i love these things and you need to get one

[KiwiRS4T]

i bought a 1999 S2, RS4-S 5 speed with 64,000 on the clock for $15,000 3 years ago. so its a R34 engine with the R33 GTR running gear.

Best car i have ever had, its a wagon but drives and sticks to the road like a sedan. The response through the steering wheel is like driving a go-cart so fast and nimble.

Im a hills driver and its unreal what you can get away with man. (i used to have a RX7 half the weight and i can go harder in this thing that that.)

The turbo's are puss though, they are made from plastic well nylon bearings anyway so if you want to do hard hills driving (on off boost heaps) you will melt and warp the internals of the turbo eventually.

I got to 80,000 in mine and the turbo was literally melted.

Decided to go for a rebuild/ high flow on the turbo insted of bolting some massive lagy snail on it. The rebuild was 2000 buks and the thing is indestructible now. it can take over 20psi boost

Did an exhaust, air pod, mid sized inter-cooler (i recon big inter-coolers promote lag), new shockers and clutch just recently and the thing is a dream to drive and it blows off new Holden's and Fords with out an issue.

I can put our new born in it and drive normally/ sensible and when he and the misses are out, i can Cain the crap out of it and not have to worry.

If you drive these cars like a nanna then you never have an issue.

If you like to give it some stick then u will go through the normal clutches frequent oil and filter changes, tyres etc alot more. but thats with any car, the difference whit these things u feel safe and in control doing it.

I really feel like i ranted on a bit dude but i love these things and you need to get one

Wow! If I didn't have one already I'd rush out and buy one!

[pipster11]

just to clear up the misinformation from StageaMang

The impeller is made from nylon, the rear from ceramic, you won't "melt" the nylon because its on the intake side of the turbo

if you get enough heat into the turbo tho, you will melt the glue that holds the wheels onto the shaft

a hypergear highflow is about $800, nistune + tune is around $1000, add a new fuel pump for safety for $200 and you can have around 200awkw for a decent price (assuming you have an aftermarket exhaust already)

i've put around 40,000kms on mine, driven from the gold coast to tassie and back twice, used it as my daily to get to uni and deliver pizzas and its been great

only things i've had to change are:

timing belt (100,000kms service, got a free waterpump with it so changed that too, whole kit was $260 out of the US! INCLUDING A GENUINE WATERPUMP!!!)

new radiator (top tank cracked, $220 for a kotorad radiator off ebay)

lots of oil changes (i change at 5000 kms because i use a semi-syn, but its overkill really)

new o2 sensor (only about $70 and most of them need doing anyway)

because of the parts interchangeability you can upgrade things really easily, and quite cheaply too

so maybe look out for one with a few things done to it already and same some $$$

[XRATED]

If nothing else, get a nistune type 4 board. There is ALOT of fuel to save and alot of midrange power and torque to be had with a simple tune. I have very basic mods and we picked alot of torque before 4500rpm.

J.