Cals Budget 32 Build

[Calsonic14U]

Quick update. Dummy fitted the rest of the center dash up and the cluster suround getting ready for running some wiring. Half a day at work tomorrow then im on 2 weeks holiday My birthday is on tuesday the 1st and i have some special things comming for presents. More so presents for the car then me Will get pics up once i have the items. Very excited.

[Calsonic14U]

Well some exciting times. Picked up the stuff yesterday. Thanks to FATZ i now have a complete front end minus the bonnet (its comming in a few weeks). Picked up the DO-luck style front bar, GTR headlights and clear indicators, carbon style grille, front wiper blades and the bar reo. She now looks like a 32 and not a flat nosed wreck Also got the body harness for the front including fuse/relay box in engine bay and all the necesary wiring on the ignition/accessory side of things. Its getting closer Heres some picks

Fresh from FATZ garage

Front end mocked up sitting in place

Carbon intake mocked up. Looks BOSS!! lol.

[fatz]

straight into it

nice work

[Calsonic14U]

straight into it

nice work

Cheers, couldnt help myself. And my dad telling me there was no room in his garage for it also motivated me lol.

[Calsonic14U]

Hey people. Long time no update i know. So yesterday had no work on so i decided to start doing the niggly things. So i installed the battery tray in the boot, am getting a box for it soon. Have mock run the possitive cable to the front of the car. Also semi installed the body harnes i brought. Have found i dont have the internal fuse box so now i need to buy that to :S. Also removed the heater core and fan for a little less weight and neatness. Not to mention room in the front. have decided to probably go with a heated front windscreen so no need for fan. Next want to get the fuse box in so i can wire in everything including guages, headlights ect.

[Risking]

Don't use that "amplifier" wiring you have there.

Go buy yourself some properly rated battery cable from an auto electrician.

[Calsonic14U]

really? cause i just spent a fair bit on this stuff. Its 4G cable not sure how many amp. Stupid jay car stuffed me then

Like i told them exactly what i was doing and this is what they recomended will it make much difference?

[Hanaldo]

Yeh don't use that stuff hey, you'll have endless problems. 0-gauge cable as a minimum. I'm using CAT 00-gauge for mine.

And yeh, most of the time, Jaycar employees are about as useful as Supercheap employees. Who are generally about as useful as a bucket with no bottom. So it doesn't surprise me that they told you it would work.

[Calsonic14U]

Hmmm looks like 5m of amp cable will be put up on the "For Sale" Thread lol. I shall go talk to my auto electrician then and get some proper stuff.

[Ryno]

It's best to run the positive wire under the car, rather than through it. You don't want to risk the cable rubbing over time, earthing out on the chassis and starting a fire.

When I put the battery in the boot of my R32, the positive cable clipped nicely into the HICAS holders along the underside of the drivers side of the car.

[XRATED]

Also, I always put a cb (circut breaker 150A at min) or fuse in the power cable.... install it as close to the terminal as possible. That way if the power cable manages to earth itself it won't burn your car down.

I normally run the power cable through split loom or conduit, then secure it with rubber lined P clamps. Obviusly keep the cable away from sharp edges, tight radius changes, heat sources, and any other chafe points.

In the engine bay, make sure your positive connection has a cover on it... There are lots of great power distribution blocks etc that can be found in marine catalogs.

There are some reasonably good kits in truck/4wd stores that include a box ( a must for a wet cell battery) terminal clamps, mounting plate/brackets, cb, cable etc.

Make sure the earth cable is at least the same size as the power cable.

If I don't run a full length earth cable, I usually run the earth cable from the battery to a solid/structural part of the chassis, then in the engine bay I'll usually earth everything to one point on the same structural/chassis part. eg on a 4wd I'll earth the batt to a chassis rail and earth the engine etc to the same chassis rail in the engine bay.

Lastly, it might be worth getting an auto elec to look over it once your done. Just to be safe.

Cheers

Justin

[XRATED]

Almost forgot, if you use crimp fittings, make sure they are crimped properly... a good test is a pull test will do. If you don't have access to a proper crimping device, just take it back to your auto elec once the cable is cut to length.

J.

[Calsonic14U]

Cheers for the input guys, yah i will be running a circuit breaker on that cable, looks like i have additional length to play with so might put the car up on saturday and run it underneath. Was planing on using the insulated P clamps aswell hence why the cable is loose just to get an idea on length. The reason behind the idea of having it inside the car was that the safety cut off switch will be mounted in the center cluster along side a seperate accessory fuse pannel and guages, with an external pull cable to be out under the windscreen via a cable. Plus with the cable being inside will be more protected form those little off track excursions im bound to have. With a bare interior and good clamps the chance of rubbage should be minimal. Ive found a good chassi earth in the boot so will be earthing to that along with as you said nice earths to the same rail in the engine bay

[Calsonic14U]

Picking up a couple of goodies and stuff tonight

[Calsonic14U]

Well as i said had some more goodies i picked up. Managed to grab a HYBRID intercooler and custom made pipe work to go with that will match up exactly to my forward facing manifold (due to pretty much whole front end was salvaged from the same car including the manifold). Also picked up the internal front wiring harnes complete with internal fuse and relay pannel, dash cluster plugs ect. So managed to run all of that today aswell as cut the passenger engine bay out to fit the cooler pipe through. Next the original battery possition will be cut to accomidate the new drivers side piping. The pipe also came with a welded flange complete with turbosmart adjustable BOV Also can now match up my rear harnes i made to the blinkers, brake and headlight circuit along with the kill switch and center control unit Heres a couple of pics of the cooler. Wiring isnt complete and looks a little messy so no pics of that

[Calsonic14U]

So guys been a bit since last update not a big one again this time.

Had a spare 10min during work this arvo so whiped out the angle grinder and cut the battery tray out for the new cooler pipe for the greddy style plenum.

Here's a few pics iPhone quality once again lol. Enjoy. (Please note, not final resting place for pipe it will clear edges of hole once installed properly)

[toffy]

If this car is for track only , run the power cable inside the car like you planned , just make sure that any sharp edges near the wire get insulated . Under the car is only ever a good idea when you're running full trim .

[Calsonic14U]

Cheers toffy. Yah i figure any off track excursions may result in a damaged cable at some point and yes the car will be fully trimless besides front seats and a dash.

[Calsonic14U]

Hey guys quick update, I know its just boring fiddly stuff but the 32 now has headlights, tail lights and blinkers that all operate. And a circuit breaker aswell temp installed inside on the center console. Just had an engagement party so saving the pennies back up and thinking of getting the brake rotors and pads sorted next

[FullBoooost]

Hope you update soon