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Nice dont look at me if they go missing lol. Ive got a few sets here. Some 18's that are good tread but the rubber is a little bumpy so they are useless as they cause a vibration. Yah wont pay for my entry yet just in case i dont get her finnished lol.

I take it you went ahead with the 8-gauge cable for the battery relocation?

Just a word of caution. I know my RB30 starter motor can draw 220amps on start up. I think yours would be similar. I'm not sure why an auto electrician told you this was ok, I understand it probably would be ok for a while, but if it the cable heats up enough, it can catch fire. I know it's only a short burst, but it could still heat enough to catch fire (say your car is very cold, takes a while to crank over).

You can get 5 metres of 2awg cable for about $7/metre, this will happily support a 220amp load over a 5 metre distance and run properly, should never have any problems. If your cable is CCA (Copper clad aluminium) it really won't be able to support much of a load, OFC (Oxygen free copper) can support more of a load.

Great build though mate, I've been following it since you started.

Cheers mate, yah i dont know either, its running the 25 box i think i put the 25 starter motor in it. Its not to hard to replace just annoying now ive split tubed it all lol and the cage will now be in. Will definately look into that better cable.

Rang brad today from pro fab, cage is being welded into final possition today and hes expecting exhaust to be completed today or tomorrow. So fingers crossed ill have her back late tomorrow or friday. Still thinking of a dark purple for the cage, will just mean alot of masking and newspaper :P

So got some more picks sent to me from brad today, exhaust is done, straight 3 inch 316 stainless dump back. Side exit. No cat or mufflers. He had some off cuts from a v8 supercar he did so did me this instead of mild steel :) Apparently not to loud which is great. looks boss cant wait to hear it. Car is getting picked up tomorrow around lunch so should have it back in my shop by end of day :) enjoy the picks.

main part of pipe work

ex1_zpsdf744b3c.jpg

lovely side pipe exit

ex2_zps5e556bf1.jpg

some sexy welds ;)

ex3_zps98e9a696.jpg

So got the car back this arvo. Really happy with the work. Exhaust is still very loud actually dont think she will be acceptable for TEXI. Only for wakefield and the creek. Bonnet looks good needs a little allignment and the pins put in which i ordered from Just jap. The only thing is that they forgot to weld in and put harness eyelets in for the passenger :( I didnt pay for them but i thought i had and so now i have to go pick up another plate and weld it to the trans tunnel myself. Other then that set back the rest is good. Heres a few picks of bonnet before allignment and pins.

IMG_1328_zps82f3aef4.jpg

IMG_1327_zps1f614a1f.jpg

Great thread. Coming along nicely. Can't wait to see this thing get finished :D

Also (just my personal opinion) with my experience in car audio in my younger days I'd be surprised if you run into trouble anytime soon with the battery relocation wiring. I personally would have gone 0 gauge, but nothing wrong with what you have, especially being a track car, there isnt going to be a lot of electrical 'devices' running from it and the car won't be running that often anyway. Glad you ran it on the inside though, I would never run cable under the car.

Tim :)

Great thread. Coming along nicely. Can't wait to see this thing get finished :D

Also (just my personal opinion) with my experience in car audio in my younger days I'd be surprised if you run into trouble anytime soon with the battery relocation wiring. I personally would have gone 0 gauge, but nothing wrong with what you have, especially being a track car, there isnt going to be a lot of electrical 'devices' running from it and the car won't be running that often anyway. Glad you ran it on the inside though, I would never run cable under the car.

Tim :)

Audio is vastly different to the battery though. For example, a 1000w amplifer should only draw around 15 amps. A 6-cylinder engine (especially a high compression engine like an RB) is going to be drawing around 200 amps, max of 400 if it spikes. 8 gauge wire is rated at 52 amps. No where near enough. Then keep in mind that the starter motor is going to draw even more current in winter when the engine is cold, and when the battery is flat...

2ga wire is rated at 208 amps, so should be the bare minimum you use to run your battery in the boot.

Edited by Hanaldo

Audio is vastly different to the battery though. For example, a 1000w amplifer should only draw around 15 amps. A 6-cylinder engine (especially a high compression engine like an RB) is going to be drawing around 200 amps, max of 400 if it spikes. 8 gauge wire is rated at 52 amps. No where near enough. Then keep in mind that the starter motor is going to draw even more current in winter when the engine is cold, and when the battery is flat...

2ga wire is rated at 208 amps, so should be the bare minimum you use to run your battery in the boot.

I wasn't saying I was right, just voicing my opinion. Most of the time I see stock cabling to be around 4 gauge, running between the battery/chassis/alternator/block. But I guess they are shorter runs also. Anyway, I may be totally wrong, just wanted to put in my 2 cents :)

Edit: I guess this is why it is common to do the 'big 3' upgrade, where the cabling between battery/chassis/alternator/block are upgraded.

Edited by timmy_89

Is the engine not running from the same battery as the amplifier in a car audio situation anyway?

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at? Yes it's all the same battery, but the battery will have the potential to deliver up to 1000 amps. It all depends on what is being drawn, audio systems just don't draw very much current (unless they are competition setups, in which case you will never see them using 8a wire either).

I'm not sure I understand what you're getting at? Yes it's all the same battery, but the battery will have the potential to deliver up to 1000 amps. It all depends on what is being drawn, audio systems just don't draw very much current (unless they are competition setups, in which case you will never see them using 8a wire either).

Sorry I have no idea what I was on about when I re read my post lol :/ ...edited it but wasn't quick enough to get in before your quote.

TBH bookie i dont want to know, but with most of the things second hand, ie bonnet, cooler set up, seats, motor. its looking ok, Cage and exhaust plus mounts were half of that $4000 about $1000 on engine build and $1000 on misc so shes pretty close. might be about 5 once windows and front bar is sprayed but im doing it myself just a nice pressure pack matte black :P

So few things over the last few days. Swapped my RECARO buckets for a set of genuine GTR seats. They fit in alot better, sit me lower in the car and have a bit more room all round. Also brought the undercoat and rubbed back the rust on the cage. And have today sprayed 3 coats of undercoat ready to sand back. Also sanded the boot where the spare went as some small bits of rust were starting. Also undercoated that. Heres some picks am still thinking purple cage just will mean alot of masking. Then just redoo the black on the interior to make it newer. Also got some bonnet latches and a new 02 sensor in.

Seats:

IMG_1349_zps445484b9.jpg

Boot before:

IMG_1348_zpsce3cece2.jpg

Boot after:

IMG_1350_zpsaf19e3a7.jpg

Cage undercoat:

IMG_1352_zps292ee51b.jpg

Latches and 02:

IMG_1337_zps711ae3ab.jpg

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