Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi fellas,

In Japan, some people love the Oni-Kyan look aka Demon Camber. This is where the camber of the wheels stick out and fold semi-flat almost looking as if it ran over a huge rock and the camber arms have broken, but the Japanese love this look. I was wondering if anyone in Aus is into this stuff and whether the damn car is still driving??

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H11E0zwI7QA

honda_smx_oni_kyan.jpg

6907687845_1b9be1d16e_z.jpg

DSC00914.JPG

It's cool do a degree, like the second and last picture are winning. 1st and 3rd are a bit over the top.

We had an event over here called Rising Sunday, there were quite a few cars sporting such fitment. The ones that weren't trailered got stickered.

Yeah it is isn't it...but with this ridiculous camber one must wonder how can you go fast?

They are show cars, they aren't designed to go fast... I dont even know how they drive to be honest but have seen a few DVD's with the cars moving so they obviously can... I'm not a fan, but each to their own i guess!

The Soarer looks OK...

I've seen quite a few drift cars with around -20 degrees of camber, eg.

tumblr_ltpp9e1fzs1r12ctjo1_500.jpg

Lots of them do it to the front wheels and have the backs at around -0.5. So it's definitely still driveable and able to take a beating if it's done properly. Which that Celica is NOT by the way :P

noriyaro-ff-drift-celica_004.jpg

ermm.gif

i like it. cause it's for fun. Why not?

people that hate it (and make a huge effort to vocalise their hatred for it) seem to think it's some sort of try-hard fashion thing. it's not.

I saw a thing on speedhunters a while ago where they were talking to owners of oni-cambered cars, and they did 100% for fun. They know it's horribly impractical, that's not the point. We all get huge amounts of fun from our cars, what does it matter one way from another?

p1-24.jpg

5452319406_1e32095990_o.jpg

mexico has the "lo-rida", japan has this shit lol. you'd be stupid to drive around with that sort of camber though, even if it is just for the lulz/fun. and that soarer! i knew they can look decent, takes a shit load of wheel and fitment to do it though!

A lot of ppl are surprised/shocked at the 'demon camber' styled tuning. It's somewhat tame in comparison to Some of thier 'vanning' culture.

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2010/11/07/gallery-gt-gt-japanese-vanning-madness.aspx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...