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2003 Holden Rodeo RA LX Space Cab Pick-up 4x2

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*4 Seater*

3.5L V6

5spd Manual

4 Seater

Major Service done at 160,000 Including Timing Belt

New Front Shocks( 5k’s old)

New Front Brake Pads (10,000k’s old)

New Spark Plugs Installed (5000k’s old)

K&N Air filter Installed (5000k’s old)

At least $3,500 worth of extras fitted

Mongoose Alarm

Keyless Entry

Nudge Bar

Rear Sports Bar

Rear Step

Tub Lining

Tonneau Cover

Weather shields

External 12V power socket located in tray

Tow Bar (Hayman Reese)

Hella Spotties x 2

Tinted Windows (TintACar)

JVC MP3/CD Player – ipod/mp3 player connectivity

Kenwood Speakers

LCD Screen with Reverse Camera + LCD screen can be used with mobile phones that have video out.

Rear Jump Seats Fitted Including Seatbelts, Queensland Mod plated and complied.

Speco Gauges - Oil Temperature, Oil Pressure & Voltage

Oil Cooler with remote oil filter and braided lines

XENON HID Head light upgrade 6000K Bulbs Hi/Lo

Mechanically A1, Lots of extras fitted, Serviced every 10,000k’s. Includes Log Books. Selling due to buying a new car. Nothing to spend, just jump in and drive away. Inspections and test drives welcome.

Includes– Load Rated 17” mags with 90% Tread

Road Worthy Certificate Supplied

Includes Rego to August 2012

Price: $12,394

Contact: PM \ 0423114400

Pictures:

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    • Should add all mods on the car are done in my ownership. The car was a 1 owner in Japan and I'm first owner in Aus.
    • Thanks GTSBoy. Did BC's so not Japanese coilovers. I've already done all the other points you mentioned besides the seat, I like the factory seats and want to keep original look. Done all the fluids and comp tests etc and all consistent and clean. Well and truly used to the power and car as I've been driving it for a few years as it is now. Contemplating next steps mainly. Preference to remain twins too. @Murray_Calavera Paying for labour.
    • Hmm. I don't think it is possible. As soon as you start, you will be on the hook for all the money. $5-10k is enough to make it fragile. Here's the list of things you need to do to make it nice, and driveable. If Japanese coilovers, get them measured and tested, then decide if you're keeping them or replacing them. If low rate springs, then consider big ARBs. If high rate springs, then probably leave stock ARBs. Either way, ad decent end links. Replace and/or upgrade all suspension bushes. That's LCAs front and rear, UCAs & traction arms at rear, caster rods at front. I highly recommend GKTech FUCAs, although the step to spherical joints is a step too far for some people. Rebuild brakes front and rear. This means making sure the calipers are healthy, discs are up to thickness, hoses are replaced with braided. Add good pads and fluid. Investigate wheel bearings all the way around, tie rod ends all the way around, upright bearings at the front, balljoints everywhere. Any of these that are still original are likely to be a bit wibbly nowadays. Bride or Recaro driver's seat, with fairly deep sides. Nice tyres. Street performance wheel alignment. Or track focused, if you're not going to use it on the road. Fluids everywhere if not known to be fresh. Now, learn to drive the car as hard as it will go, before trying to add any power. Save up big $$. $5k is the minimum cost for putting a decent ECU into it. A big single, with manifold, new exhaust, injectors, fuel system upgrade, ignition upgrade, triggering upgrade, etc, is >>$10k. None of that (except the ECU) is a good idea on an old RB. You really should put head studs in it, investigate engine health (compression and leak down, real oil pressure at revs, coolant condition, etc) before even considering adding power. There's nothing sadder than the "I added boost then it shat the bed" thread.
    • Are you doing the work yourself or are you paying for labour? 
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