Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey SAU,

I just bought my first GTR (and Nissan car for that matter) 2 months ago. During the first 2 weeks in my possession, there were no leaks.

One night when I was backing the car out, I saw a small puddle. I came back home shortly after and put a tray underneath (left side/turbo side).

Next morning I inspected the tray and found out it was red, could only be power steering fluid (Dexron ATF). I researched around and concluded the leak can either be Power steering itself or from the Attesa unit.

I searched around GTROC and SAU and someone recommended Nulon Power Steering Stop Leak and Conditioner, it worked for them so why can't it work for me?

It doesn't work unfortunately, it still leaks (a drop every hour or two I reckon) and now screeches on full lock (power steering doesn't like the fluid).

I have recently lifted the car and took off the front diffusers to take pictures.

Any help to solve this problem would be greatly appreciated! (From a R34 GTR, I don't think it makes a big difference but just incase people are asking).

photo_2.jpg

Really wet

photo_1.jpg

This is where the drips are coming from I guess.

photo_4.jpg

This thing was wet, I thought this was the culprit at first. This should be ok right?

photo.jpg

Slight oil dripping from corner of sump (I can't remember but I'm sure it was the sump), should be ok right?

Yet again, any help would be greatly appreciated. I need this fixed so it doesn't play in the back of my mind when I start building this monster.

On my BNR32 that hose started to leak, so i removed it and had Enzed make up a new rubber section and fit it to the metal tube section. Was a bitch to remove.... FWIW im using Transmax Z (synthetic) fluid without issue.

I cant remember, wasnt expensive at all. It would be cheaper than getting the part from Nissan, and you wont have to wait for it to come from Japan. On my hose I could see the blister in it, i guess you cant be as sure that hose is the problem because of that loose cover hose over the top.

  • 2 years later...

Digging up an old thread, I've got a similar problem. My power steering reservoir looks like it's always been weeping a bit but now I have drops coming down on the left hand side under the engine bay. See below for a pic.

Any suggestions on how to investigate and remedy this? Is it just the connectors/lines or is my rack going too? Could it be leaking from multiple spots?

Also, can you recommend a PS specialist in Melb who knows Skylines...?

14006154874_590ee9d284_z.jpg

Thanks!

Replace reservoir lines, they weep and usually are the source.

I replaced mine with aftermarket gates oil hoses. 3/8" and 5/8", if money permits go OEM - I went aftermarket because I ended up fitting a power steering cooler when I did my lines (no more boiling on the track)

  • Like 1
Replace reservoir lines, they weep and usually are the source.

I replaced mine with aftermarket gates oil hoses. 3/8" and 5/8", if money permits go OEM - I went aftermarket because I ended up fitting a power steering cooler when I did my lines (no more boiling on the track)

Off topic here but what did you notice when the p/s fluid boiled? Im still troubleshooting a problem with mine, and because the reservoir sits so close to the 6 boost manifold im wondering if its to do with heat. I lose nearly all the assistance from the power steering tge 2nd or third time I start the car (so when its been hot and then started) im womdering if my pump isnt 100% and when it gets too hot the pump isnt working efficently

Off topic here but what did you notice when the p/s fluid boiled? Im still troubleshooting a problem with mine, and because the reservoir sits so close to the 6 boost manifold im wondering if its to do with heat. I lose nearly all the assistance from the power steering tge 2nd or third time I start the car (so when its been hot and then started) im womdering if my pump isnt 100% and when it gets too hot the pump isnt working efficently

Oil all over the reservoir dribble down the lines and loss of fluid - only happens on the track.

I don't lose all assistance or that, just half the oil dribbles out and makes a mess in the engine bay.

Since I've installed my power steering oil cooler (used R33 AT cooler) no more, no dribble shit, no dirty reservoir and my lines looks fresh :)

Yeah im getting voltage to the solenoid when the problem occurs. So not sure if the PWM is right but I believe it is. I want to change the solenoid but cant source a new one because they dont make them anymore.

I never had issues before I changed the engine. And we accidentally ran the car on initial start up with no power steering oil so was suprised the pump has been so good lol

I have a spare. I think ill just change it out and check the wiring to the solenoid

I've got a power steering leak aswell recently but it's coming from the drivers side near front drive shafts that a lot of lines and banjo bolts around where it leaks from

Gotta get under and try nip all the bolts up and see how it goes...

Yeah im getting voltage to the solenoid when the problem occurs. So not sure if the PWM is right but I believe it is. I want to change the solenoid but cant source a new one because they dont make them anymore.

I never had issues before I changed the engine. And we accidentally ran the car on initial start up with no power steering oil so was suprised the pump has been so good lol

I have a spare. I think ill just change it out and check the wiring to the solenoid

Is the Power steering really PWM? In my R32 i haven't have power steering since i did and engine swap, and i have been told that it was because i didnt give power to the solenoid inside the steering rack. I have the engine out again and i gave it 12V and i can hear it opening, so i thought it must be working fine. My plan was to just give it 12V when the car starts up but you are suggesting that its PWM?

It will be fully open with 12V at it so the power steering will work fine. However (from the information ive found) the HICAS Ecu varies the PWM to the solenoid as speed increases till the assistance is no longer needed. I could be wrong but it makes sense

Okay, yes that makes a lot more sense. I didn't even think about that, seems pretty obvious now you have pointed it out haha. I was running a power steering cooler in my car also (R33 auto trans cooler) and i could never get the system fully bled properly. Does the cooler have to sit lower than the feed point from the reservoir? And it seemed to be worse when i had it mounted upside down (so the p/s fluid had to flow up into the cooler), i wouldnt have thought it would make that much of a difference being that the system would be pressurized when turning the steering wheel, which is the only time the system is operating.

Did you hook it up on the rack return line?

I don't have any issues with bleeding it as such.

However mines mounted a little unconventionally because of my front bar and bumper support

post-22311-13989360642774_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...