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  On 20/10/2012 at 1:56 AM, Manuel Kasko said:

So you spent $300 + a tune to get pretty much exactly the same power?!

Doesn't make sense at all

It picked up over 40-60rwkw @ 4000-5000rpm..... and 20rwkw just about everywhere else..... are you retarded? :wub:

oh and more importantly over 100nm at 4700ish rpm and 50rw nm everywhere else.... peak power is irrelevant.

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  On 20/10/2012 at 5:47 AM, STATUS said:

It picked up over 40-60rwkw @ 4000-5000rpm..... and 20rwkw just about everywhere else..... are you retarded? :wub:

oh and more importantly over 100nm at 4700ish rpm and 50rw nm everywhere else.... peak power is irrelevant.

But he said red line was with a safc.

I don't doubt the gain of 40kw using a nistune and z32

But the green and orange have hardly any difference in power and he said that was with and without water meth.

  On 20/10/2012 at 5:47 AM, STATUS said:

It picked up over 40-60rwkw @ 4000-5000rpm..... and 20rwkw just about everywhere else..... are you retarded? :wub:

oh and more importantly over 100nm at 4700ish rpm and 50rw nm everywhere else.... peak power is irrelevant.

Cheers Trent, car is completely different and much more fun to drive!

  On 20/10/2012 at 6:04 AM, The Mafia said:

People still only look at that final number.

To me, It's all about the area under the curve. The more there is, the better it is.

Exactly. ~180 isn't a big number, but the car is phenomenal fun now compared to before with the SAFC holding it back. Good solid usable power and torque from 2500 right up to the limiter.

Yes, the difference between the WMI and non WMI is minimal, but the gain at 3500rpm is roughly 10rwkw with minimal adjustment to the tune, after that the maps are the same, just with and without water-meth. In that form boost, torque and power all hold on a tiny bit better up to red-line. Less fuel and more timing would have gotten a better result but the tune would solely rely on the kit working, and I didn't want that even though it was very tempting at the time.

As I said before, there isn't a dramatic gain in peak power, but coolant and inlet temps are completely different with minor performance gains, overall it's a better tune that will perform the same on a 30 degree day or a 3 degree night. I don't know of anything else that can give that for $330?

Buy the snow stage 2 from z1motorsports or concept z for z32 specific kit (what I have). The come with tee and a pair of nozzels.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/product_info.php?products_id=2230

Edited by MagicMikeZ32

Just re-read the entire thread and articles posted but it hasn't all sunk in yet.

My main question thus far is what circuit to measure off for injection is best?or multiple inputs are better? From the shitload I have read so far it seems to be a poorly understood topic by many people making it somewhat hard to research. So many different opinions.

So-

By using MAF it will kick in at a certain voltage and can build or hold depending on settings.

By using boost once it reaches full boost which is where my peak torque is then it will be at full flow and hold therefore its actually tapering off as rpm increases which is ideal?

Correct or not?

Will be going on a rebuilt rb25, poncams, hypergear SS2 with .82 rear. Port/polish. Both squish pads removed. 9.05:1 CR

half your problem is people like to over complicate things aswell which doesn't help...lol

boost way works fine..sure someone can chime in on the maf side of things, i have never done it

Getting good results are going to be more tuner based (wether they are confortable using it(so many are scared of it, or pushing it like E85 ) and percentage injected rather than the way you have it set up...IMO, you only have to look at net and forums all over the world to see that..lol

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Are you concerned about siphoning, or spray dribble as the system builds/tapers pressure?

If you look around there are some nifty/simple anti-siphon devices that also incorporate a filter. Nothing more than a ball/spring assembly with a very fine gauze, but they work, they're serviceable, and they're cheap.

Running either a boot-mount or underbonnet tank, it's going to be difficult to end up with the nozzle/s lower than the tank.

the solenoid with filter is only $50 anyway, if you buy one through coolingmist its less as they will keep the checkvalve and swap it for a solenoid..was only another $30 ish..

and if you want a much cheaper kit, deal through american ebay, i don't know about others, but coolingmist are a lot cheaper, my kit was $80 cheaper by buying them through coolingmist on ebay...

cheers

darren

Edited by jet_r31

Aem from summit is 450 delivered. Seems pretty good.

Haven't seem a coolingmist near that yet...

I'm sure like others I'm just over thinking it and should just hit the pay now button :)

http://www.ebay.com....=item19d63735f4

not as cheap atm..mine was $230, or he was doing it before

Anyway, if you email him, he will come down in price, you can barter a bit, get the solenoid aswell, he will swap

it for checkvalve so you get money back for checkvalve

Edited by jet_r31

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