Jump to content
SAU Community

Few Quick Questions About R33 Lsd...

arrydjay
 Share

Recommended Posts

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

So my R33 GTST came with the Active LSD system. Since I want to go drifting I ripped it all out and replaced it with a regular viscous LSD and just shimmed the fark out of it.

When bolting it back together I have run into a snag. The half shafts on the A-LSD are threaded so the bolts just go through the axles and into the half shafts.

The new half shafts are not threaded, so how are they set up from factory? Do they just have a nut on the end? does the end go on the half shaft side or the axle side?

Also the A-LSD had two sensors coming out of it...I think they are temp sensors or something, the new diff just has one.... Should I just splice the four wires into two and connect up the new sensor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396243-few-quick-questions-about-r33-lsd/
Share on other sites
arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If you had ever experienced an A-LSD you would know why....may have been good when new but mine was downright dangerous for drifting...it would single spin most of the time, but every now and then it would just go bang and kick out... Eventually I'm going to get a 2-way but they can't go into the a-LSD housing anyway so I had to swap it out to the regular gtst diff. I just thought i would try and go with the shims first and see how it goes....if its shit I'll pull it out and drop a Kaaz or nismo in. I've figured out the bolts....all I need to know is what to do with the wiring..I'm thinking now I might just hook up one of the sensors.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Your description of your A-LSD's behaviour matches with my experience of VLSD behaviour. I've not driven a "shimmed" VLSD, but the thing you have to understand is that you haven't changed the way the viscous coupling works by shimming it, you have just transferred the load out of the coupling and into the wear surface outside the coupling. It won't last, it has to wear the diff out.

Now, as to your other questions, I'm pretty sure that the normal bolts through the CVs to the halfshafts have nuts on them, with the nuts behind the halfshaft flanges - you couldn't push a bolt through from the diff side anyway, no room to do so. Also, can you put up pictures of the sensors you're talking about? The only sensors I'm used to seeing on Nissan diffs are the ABS sensors at the rear. Oh, and the speedo sensor on the S15 diff.

FWIW, I've just built a diff for my R32. S15 helical centre, 4.11 gears. It has transformed the car (from a total POS with the original VLSD). It may not suit drifters (but then, I wouldn't have said an R33 was a good choice for drifting either), but I would never choose a mechanical plate/clutch style diff over a helical based on my new found love for the predictable way the helical drives.

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So yeah it's actually an ABS sensor...the old diff had 2 and the new diff had one...I just wired up the one but the ABS light is on.. I know how the shims work and i know that its just increasing preload, but it costs $20 so i just thought ide try it first. Just went for a drive and the diff is tight as f**k...I think I might have gone overboard with the shims...it's making some weird noises and vibrations..

Hopefully it loosens up a bit..

arrydjay Community Regular

arrydjay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just thought Id update that shimmed diffs are shit..

It was super tight at first and made all sorts of f*kt up noises....after a week it has settled down and doesn't make any noises any more but it also doesn't lock up dualies all the time.

On the brake it spins both and on left handers it spins both but right handers it peg legs for a bit and then goes. It's heaps better than the A-LSD but i would just rather a locker. I shimmed the hell out of it too with 3.3mm total preload.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX 路 Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 馃
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan 路 Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
脳
脳
  • Create New...