Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

doh, i just bought 8000k for mine- very blue

Is that illegal or something?

Not overly fussed about visibility as its a city car in perth. It doesnt rain much n u could also drive with your headlights off half the time n not notice with the street lighting...

Thanks guys

I've done a bit of research into the topic. 4300k is the closest to daylight colour and after that they start going blue. Most OEM's use 4300k globes but the most popular aftermarket colour is 6000k.

The most contributing factor is the type of headlamp they go into. Cut glass lenses (the old school type) tend to throw the light around. This is because hid light output is very directional and refracts easily. The best lamps are the projector and free form designs. They control the light much better and give a defined cutoff. Important so your not blinding oncoming cars.

Cheers

4300K is light yellowish, 5000k close to white (will look slightly off if you have white LED parkers), 6000k is white, will match white LED parkers the best and probably the highest you'd want to go for looks vs. visability. Anything higher tends to blue/purple and will be worser off for visibility.

I have 6000k in my HR31 and now R32 and are absolutely awesome :). Just make sure they are not aimed too high and blind other road users. Also if you are going to use them in non-projector type headlights you should probably get a Hi/Lo type kit as you will blind people no matter where you aim them ;)

Edit: Added a pic of my conversion half done.

post-27061-0-01867800-1333590863_thumb.jpg

Edited by ColdFusion

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
    • I have a 2 lt in Sydney. It was fitted on a R33 GTR, not used for several years . If you are interested email me on: [email protected] I'm not on this forum much .
×
×
  • Create New...