Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Nistune Computer And Z32 Afm Issues

Luke HCR32

By Luke HCR32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've slowly been gathering parts to upgrade the power output of my '92 R32 GTS-T and am about to embark on putting it all together.

So far I have:

-RB25 turbo rebuilt with Garrett 2871 core (brand new) plus line kit

-550cc denso injectors (cleaned and flow tested)

-Z32 AFM (Bosch)

-New dump/front pipe

-Manifold gasket and stud kit

Pre-existing power mods include 600x300 front mount, 3 inch exhaust, gutted cat, superspark coil packs, boxed pod filter, home job cold air intake, turbotech manual boost controller, bosch in tank fuel pump (040?) - 143.5 rwkw @ 10-11 psi

My mate has offered me a second hand Nistune computer however he is unsure of what it has been mapped to run as it came with a track car he purchased but never got going

First question: I've been told that a nistune computer will not run a Z32 AFM unless it has already been mapped to do so, this is an issue as I need to be able to limp the car to my tuner, the second hand computer may have been running an AFM with a blue label branded JECS but I'm not sure. Is my only option to change the AFM once I get to the dyno?

Second question: The second hand Nistune has the same sticker as my stock computer but none of the serial numbers/ codes are the same (big number on mates computer is 15, mine says BH) I've been told there is dozens of different RB20 computers, is there a way i can make sure it's not for an RB25? Should I check to see if it runs with the current setup before I swap my turbo?

Third question: Have I overlooked anything in this build? The guy who built my turbo reckons it will be good for 240rwkw, I'll be happy with 200 as long as it's responsive.

Mate was running pretty much the same setup, except GT-R injectors and HKS GT-RS turbo, in an R31 drift car and made 237 rwkw @ 20 odd pound

Edited by Luke HCR32
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

There is no such thing as a Nistuned RB25 ECu, so you have no worries there, unless the ECU is for a completely different car (like a Z32 maybe). Don't worry about it. Just change the AFM at the tuner. 5 minute job. Don't worry about it. Got any idea what the compressions on your motor are? Don't be throwing too much boost at it if it's leaky, as you will be chasing oil control solutions 2 days after you get it tuned.

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haven't tested compression, do have a mate with a compression tester though, I'm already burning oil but it seems to be coming through the compressor housing seal on the turbo - one of the reasons i got my act together on a turbo swap.

Not planning to throw too much boost around, regardless of how much power it makes I'll be setting the boost for about 190-200kw for street use.

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My stock ECU:

Big letters: BH

Second Line: 23710 11U00

Third Line: MEC-R212 B 2203

Nistune ECU:

Big letters: 15

Second Line: 23710 94L10

Third Line: MEC-R113 B 9X19

My spare stock ECU:

Big letters: BJ

Second Line: 23710 11U10

Third Line: MEC-R213 B 2108

What is throwing me is that my two stock ECU's are so similar and the Nistune I've acquired is not.

All ECU's look identical except for slight variations in the mounting brackets.

kosmo90 Enthusiast

kosmo90

Posted
Posted

Have a look on the Nistune website, they have a compatible ecu list eg: numbers etc.

Its in the support/download section from memory, but if it already has a nistune board fitted then all you will need is a base map to get you to the tuners.

This is also in the support/download section.

If you dont own the software,then there is a trial version that will last an hour or something, enough time to get you sorted for the base.

Read up a bit on it first though because you might not be able to adjust everything you need if you go in blind.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

No Nothing wrong. But don't throw random untuned (for your setup) ECU into car and drive. That's just silly. Likely won't even run anyway, as the injector size will be all wrong and the idle mixtures will make it run like a dog at best. And that's without even considering the effect of the Z32 AFM.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

The compatible ECU issue is a non-issue as the board is already installed, if you were buying a 2nd hand board that had the base image for a different model of ECU then you would have an issue.

As said, you need a consult cable and a copy of the software.

There are built-in functions to resize the maps for different injectors and AFM's but you really need a wideband so you can tweak the K constant - unless you know what you're doing I would just tow it to the tuners :)

Moodles2 Grand Master

Moodles2

Posted
Posted

Before the car is started with that Nistuned ECU, it would be best reverting back to a RB20 basemap (effectively overwritting whatever is loaded), then there is really 3 things you have to modify.

#1 MAF translation (I believe just a matter of selecting Z32 from a dropdown box).

#2 Resizing the injectors from stock to 550cc

#3 Finally injector lag time in microseconds ( http://www.nengun.com/sard/injectors says 0.85 millisec for your 550's, old Nistune required you to double this valve so you would enter 1700 microseconds or 850 microseconds if using a recent version of Nistune where you don't need to double the value).

In this state it would be drivable to the tuners, I just wouldn't drive it around like that unless AFRs were checked.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

^^ pretty much but with the two translation and the latency change you usually still have to fiddle with the K constant to get it driving OK which you can't (read: shouldn't) do without a wideband.

IF you do go about it that way and try to drive it to the tuners, DON'T BOOST IT, and take a spare set of plugs to swap in when you get there as they will probably foul up on the drive.

Luke HCR32 Collaborator

Luke HCR32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My tuner has recommended I drive there with everything installed but the Z32 AFM and swap that in when I get there along with new plugs (NGK platinum 7's), have to granny it 25 kms to get there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 180 wanabe
      Thinking of getting a Q50 300hp and just tuning it instead of getting the Q50 Red or 400R

      By 180 wanabe · Posted

      Also had a look at the Nissan JP website looks like the 400r has a slightly shorter ratio than than the regular V37 3.133 VS 2.937 which from a guy who has driven both 3.69 vs 4.11 ratios in the S15 is bugger all. Seems that the AUTO Z runs the same ratio as the 400R but can't find any info as to if its an open or LSD? More often than not the auto LSD is open
    • joshuaho96
      R34 power steering

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Do not replace the power steering lines with this stuff. If it's anything like the Chase Bays stuff it will leak and be worse than stock. The reason why the reservoir is on the LH/passenger side of the car is because that's just where the reservoir was most convenient to fit. Don't overthink this stuff. The intake/cold side of the engine is pretty busy on these cars. And again, the hardpipe is designed to be a janky power steering cooler. In theory you can replace it with a real power steering cooler but that's really only for track use where boiling the fluid is a distinct possibility. Start with the low pressure lines feeding the pump from the reservoir. Make sure there isn't a bunch of junk in the reservoir filter. Be careful to not get ATF all over the engine bay. I hate dealing with ATF spills, you can clean it up and the slightest crevice will still release more oil that can still drip over time. You also want to inspect for leaks before you make a mess and can't tell what happened. Most likely you have a leak somewhere that is allowing fluid out and air in. Failing that it's allowing air in but not fluid out. Only place I can really see that happening is on the low pressure side because the pump will pull a slight vacuum to draw fluid in. Everything after the pump is high pressure or lower pressure, approaching atmospheric by the time it returns to the reservoir.
    • Kinks
      Skid pans in/around Sydney?

      By Kinks · Posted

      I did a skidpan night at SMSP this week, it was much cheaper than $350. But yeah, you need to slap an LSD in that thing.  I put an OS Giken in the 370Z and it's f**king MARVELOUS even compared to Nissan's viscous LSD. So you're saying it's free now that it's a housing estate? 😂
    • The Bogan
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Nah, the car seems to run exactly as it did prior, in saying this it does "seem" to be better down low, like more eager to rev, but that may be 100% placebo effect from intake noise But, I'm not worried about it at all, in the end it is a fairly low compression NA engine that has a well shrouded intake,  if it is getting hotter IAT I cannot notice anything negative performance wise from the seat of my pants thrashing it about on the street or sitting in traffic, so meh, car now now makes induction noise so I'm happy
    • Kinkstaah
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Do you have an IAT sensor? It's worth checking it to see. You may be suprised how little gap you actually need to flood your engine with hot air. (I tape up my airbox for a reason) :p
×
×
  • Create New...