Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I went for a spin in a 33 on Friday. The bloke is selling it, but isn't in a rush and is happy to wait for me. He told me it has 280RWKW, it was definitely fast but I don't have anything to compare it to, I've only been in a few cars that had over 200rwhp, this thing made them feel slow as. I had only just met him and didn't know if he was a capable driver or not, so it scared the F out of me, hahaha..

Here's what it has (from memory, I don't know all of it)...

T04Z turbo

80mm throttle body

3.5" catback with high flow cat

I dunno the specs of the front mount

Forward facing plenum (looks like a greddy but it's a cheapo), the guy was honest in saying that it's an ebay one, he reckons he hasn't had a drama with it

I didn't ask about the fuel system, like injectors or pump, idk how much the stock system can flow, so I can't make an assumption about that.

He didn't say if it was internally stock or not, but if it was built I'm sure he would have mentioned it, so I'm going to assume it's stock.

I don't know what boost control set up he had, but it had a couple of brass dials on it and he could switch it on the fly, the maximum setting was 16 pounds but he said it spikes to 18 but never anymore than that. Is this dangerous, and is there a risk of it spiking more than that?

Other than that, here is what the car has...

170xxx km's

The interior is as clean as a whistle and it rides extremely smooth, not a single rattle in it.

Hicas lock bar

Volk rims (not sure what type)

Tein adjustables

Has a body kit and a stock front bar, has a nismo front bar with a bit of damage included.

Has a bit of paint missing on the roof about the size of a 50 cent piece, fixed up with white out (lol) no rust.

Small bit of rust on the passenger door, a bubble line about 4-5 cm long

The driver side door has a dent coming from the inside out that you can't really see, the only giveaway is the paint has cracked. Apparently the window winder came off the rail and smacked into it.

The deal is a kawasaki of mine plus 5 grand, the car will come with 6 months rego, a roadworthy, a new clutch and two new tyres on the back, plus the inclusions like the front bar and that.

I'm pretty keen, I don't want to jump into it if it is going to prove to be a drama though. I think for the price it's a great bargain, the guy is a nice, honest bloke so I trust what he says about the car. He daily drives it 40+ km a day.

What do you guys think? Anything for a skyline newb to look for, anything that doesn't sound kosher?

Thanks in advance.

Edited by kawasakirider

sounds legit...I'd say get a compression test done if your really worried and make sure it still slips into gear without too much effort..

But I think just about every skyline box is a little notchy, they're still a tuff unit..

Other than that RB25s are known to last quite a long time at that power level if kept serviced and 16-18psi isnt really considered alot of boost...

whats the kwaka your trading worth..??

Hey man, thanks for the reply. Uh, the bike I'm trading would probably be worth about 2.5k, it's a 2002 model KX 125, completely rebuilt recently, wiseco top end, hot rods rod kit, new reeds, new fmf exhaust etc. I've got a newer KX250 so the bike isn't a drama. He wanted 8k but is willing to do the bike plus 5 k. I'm planning on buying a 4 stroke in the future anyway, so I think the deal is pretty sweet.

LOL @ using a T04Z for 280rwkws @ 18psi

Stay away dude

Can you tell me why man? I'll look up the T04Z later, I'm just on my phone at the moment. Should it be making tons more than that? I haven't seen a dyno sheet, just what he said.

Can you tell me why man? I'll look up the T04Z later, I'm just on my phone at the moment. Should it be making tons more than that? I haven't seen a dyno sheet, just what he said.

T04Z is rated to ~800 crank hp.

He's making 375 rwhp.

Lots of lag and e-peen size, and good potential later on, but sort of backwards for that power.

Generally, 300rwkw is considered the safe limit if the vehicle is serviced properly.

to be fair it was 16psi spiking to 18psi..

its an old turbo, its probably considered retro to use one these days..but retro is cool :laugh:

there is a good chance it maybe hanging off a HKS manifold as well, which are hard to find these days so worth 1000$ itself

also could indicate the car was built years ago and the fact its still running could mean its been reasonably well looked after..

Also its not hard to swap out for a 3076r or something...see if you can get a spec list off the guy or some photos of the engine for us to look at..

TO4Z starts working at about 4500rpm on my 3ltr, it would be as laggy as hell I would assume on a stock 25.

It could be a OK car but your better of taking it to a good tuner to have a look at it, it might last a while of it might last a day.

Goodluck.

It didn't feel too laggy to me, it wasn't much over 3K before it started to hit really hard.

He said it was on a stock manifold, so no HKS one there.

I'll try to get some pics of the engine bay and stuff, I have a couple of pics of the car. I'll post them up in a little while, just gotta upload them to photobucket.

When the time comes, I'll see if there's anyone experienced on here from SE QLD that would come and offer advice for a carton, haha.

It didn't feel too laggy to me, it wasn't much over 3K before it started to hit really hard.

He said it was on a stock manifold, so no HKS one there.

I'll try to get some pics of the engine bay and stuff, I have a couple of pics of the car. I'll post them up in a little while, just gotta upload them to photobucket.

When the time comes, I'll see if there's anyone experienced on here from SE QLD that would come and offer advice for a carton, haha.

Definately is NOT a T04Z then

Wrong flange for starters

Hmm ok guys, thanks. If the time comes when I go to seriously look at it, I'll get someone who knows their shit to come with me. I reckon this guy has bought the car and has no idea what is on it. He definitely said it had the stock manifold though, he told me if I changed the manifold it would pick up another 30rwkw.

i would not trust 1 word from someone that has that steering wheel cover

Hahaha, there was no cover on the wheel when I was in the car. I think he took pics of that when he had just bought the car himself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • $53.35 and a double din Pioneer head unit that I have...
    • Put a camera facing your dashboard so you can film the gauges. Head out to a straight but of road, and filming it as you go from a stand still at wide open throttle to as fast as you can/feel comfortable doing. Then film the dash board as you for example accelerate like normal onto a freeway. This will give us an indicator from Speedo of your expectation of slow, and will give us the rpm reading too to see if it's shifting. (Auto still has tacho from memory)
    • Buy yourself the cooling system pressure tester. Being able to pump it up, and have a gauge on it, AND have a cold engine makes it much easier / practical to diagnose. Additionally as the engine isn't running, you can listen for pin hole leaks as well as watching if pressure drops away. In addition, you can pressurise and while doing so, watch all the little rubber hoses. Some fail very brittle, and will just leak, while others can end up very soft and bulge. While a bulging hose isn't necessarily leaking, one of those small ones starting to stretch / expand in a bad way is an indicator that you'll be looking to replace that one soon   Depending on if this is a project car, or you'll be dailying it in the summer months would alter how I'd be most comfortable with driving the car and how I'd replace. If you're planning to use it as a daily, with no backup, I'd pull the engine, and replace all the external oil/water lines in one big swoop. At the same time do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Do not open the engine at all. We just want to replace all the things that are inexpensive as a single item, but a PITA when they go. By doing the above, you've made the car from a bunch of age related issues more reliable. If it's a project, and you like swearing while trying to reach into dirty hard to reach places to replace a single hose that may or may not be the leaky one. Just replace the leaking/bad ones as they need it. If it's a project and you'd rather swear at the car once and enjoy it as much as possible, then refer to the process I mentioned in how I'd want to do it if it were a daily. However, the approaches above do come down to how much spare pocket change you have. Pulling the engine and dropping over a thousand dollars on parts, may not be practical for you. Oh, if engine outing, I'd replace as many silicon/rubber inlet joiners as possible too.
    • Yeah, they're pretty dumb though...ie; they'll throw a solenoid error if the solenoid is dead, shorted, wiring is open circuit, or even if the driver transistor has failed (they can't self-diagnose much, they can only test inputs/outputs)... but if you wanted to try, I believe it's this protocol....(uses a long pulse indicator with short pulse counter)...    
    • Yeah I'll do what I can without taking off any major parts for now. If it becomes clear I won't get far with the engine in the car I'll have to think about the next steps. I am not too stuck on keeping everything 100% OEM, if there is better solutions, like converting most lines to braided with AN adapters, I'd rather do that than buy overpriced new "shit" parts.
×
×
  • Create New...