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Replacing Disc Rotors

reverseworm
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reverseworm Contributor

reverseworm

Posted
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Hi guys - I think I need to replace discs all round but before I buy the parts, was wondering if it is an easy job or not? I have never changed the discs on a V35 before - is it the same as any other car or is there some hidden trick I should know about?

Thanks

Andrew

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Nightcrawler Grand Master

Nightcrawler

Posted
Posted

It is a piece of cake.

A few tips:

- if you brake fluid is very full in the reservoir, remove some, as when you squeeze open the brake pads to put on the new/wider disks, fluid gets forced back into the reservior and will overflow if it is too full (I did this when I recently changed pads).

- open the brake bleed nipples to make squeezing the pads open easier, but once disks are fitted you should bleed them again anyway.

- buy braided brake lines (cheap = $200-$300) and put them on while you have it all apart.

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grae35 Collaborator

grae35

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Posted

Nope - never worked on handbrake shoes.

You can pull out the rubber grommet to get access to the rear hand brake adjusters and back them off a bit. But when I did mine last year the backing plate was held to the rotor by rust etc so you need to give the centre of the rotors a few hits with a club hammer to loosen same. I had to be quite brutal to free it up. It isnt particularly difficult other than for loosening the rear rotors.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Howaitonaito Mentor

Howaitonaito

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Posted

I'm putting DBA slotted Rotors all round On a factory 250GT (I presume sedans have same brakes as a 350Z touring yeah), braided brake lines and new brake pads

(can anyone reccomend some good ones), having my handbrake tightened while my coilovers are being put in..... Within the coming month

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Deep Dish V35 Experienced

Deep Dish V35

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Posted (edited)

I'm putting DBA slotted Rotors all round On a factory 250GT (I presume sedans have same brakes as a 350Z touring yeah), braided brake lines and new brake pads

(can anyone reccomend some good ones), having my handbrake tightened while my coilovers are being put in..... Within the coming month

my previous experience with dba slotted rotors and bendix blue pads was not a good one... downhill braking resulted in smoking brakes, and pedal touching the floor. the pads when heated up literally had a chatter feel similar to dragging a wet washing glove on a plate

Edited by Deep Dish V35
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ka86 Collaborator

ka86

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Posted

Where are they at. I'm in Newcastle

QLD but they post anywhere. Their prices are pretty good and QFM HPX is a good pad. I got a set of 4 i.e 2x front, 2 x rear for $220 however that was for the Brembos so yours should be cheaper.

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  • 3 months later...
Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

Bringing this thread alive again -

My rotors are showing wear, with visable lines on the face and discouloring. My brakes also squeel a lot in the cold or after rain in the morning when i first start driving.

I have had a bit of a look into Stoptech rotors and they seem to be reasonably priced, but if i'm upgrading rotors do i need to upgrade the capiler and pads too? I've got Brembo's 03 coupe.

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Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

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No, although it would be best to do pads at the same time.

Just make sure that the rotors are for your brake package (ie 350z Track)

Thanks for the advice mate,

I have heard off my mate with a Supra to stay away from drilled rotors because they get really hot. Is this true? Would slotted Stoptechs fit in my wheels, i am about to buy a set of 20's.

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the advice mate,

I have heard off my mate with a Supra to stay away from drilled rotors because they get really hot. Is this true? Would slotted Stoptechs fit in my wheels, i am about to buy a set of 20's.

Drilled rotors don't get any "hotter" than a normal rotor, that's a function of how hard you use the brakes.

The drilled holes become a stress riser due to localised heat and expansion & contraction of the rotor.

Just get some slotted ones; they still de gas the pad, and deglaze the rotor, that's where the benefit lies.

Brand is irrelevant, you have to buy rotors that have exactly the same dimensions as what you are running now; otherwise the caliper won't fit on.

The wheels not fitting will be the least of your worries.

I don't mean to offend.

With some of the basic questions you're asking; it might be better if you leave it to a professional, or at very least, have an experienced mate assist you with it the first time.

Brakes are not something you can afford to get even a little bit wrong.

Edited by Daleo
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Seano350GT Veteran

Seano350GT

Posted
Posted

Drilled rotors don't get any "hotter" than a normal rotor, that's a function of how hard you use the brakes.

The drilled holes become a stress riser due to localised heat and expansion & contraction of the rotor.

Just get some slotted ones; they still de gas the pad, and deglaze the rotor, that's where the benefit lies.

Brand is irrelevant, you have to buy rotors that have exactly the same dimensions as what you are running now; otherwise the caliper won't fit on.

The wheels not fitting will be the least of your worries.

I don't mean to offend.

With some of the basic questions you're asking; it might be better if you leave it to a professional, or at very least, have an experienced mate assist you with it the first time.

Brakes are not something you can afford to get even a little bit wrong.

Excellent, thank you for that i understand it now. I will have to look up my dimensions then and go from there. No offence taken at all, i asked the question and requested information and that's what you guys are doing for me so i appreciate it. I just wanted a bit of an idea what to go with for now, my brakes will be fine for months to come so i'm not going to worry about it asap as i have money going on different things but i will keep this info in mind.

Of course, i would not try to fit them myself my Dad was a mechanic for 30 something years so i can always turn to him if i need something put on.

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Daleo Grand Master

Daleo

Posted
Posted (edited)

Best to get 2 piece floating rotors like I have - when the disk gets hot it expands and contracts independent of the rotor centre, eliminating the chance of disk warping.

Floating rotors aren't exactly a guarantee against warping, although the better quality base materials of a 2 piece rotor would certainly help.

The main reason for using 2 piece rotors (in my understanding) is that in high load conditions (i.e; trackwork) the alloy hat minimises the heat of the rotor transferring into the hub; and overheating the bearings causing a failure.

Excellent, thank you for that i understand it now. I will have to look up my dimensions then and go from there. No offence taken at all, i asked the question and requested information and that's what you guys are doing for me so i appreciate it. I just wanted a bit of an idea what to go with for now, my brakes will be fine for months to come so i'm not going to worry about it asap as i have money going on different things but i will keep this info in mind.

Of course, i would not try to fit them myself my Dad was a mechanic for 30 something years so i can always turn to him if i need something put on.

Good stuff, best of luck. :thumbsup:

Edited by Daleo
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