Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

-MY01 wrx build date 8/2001.

-54,000km's-second owner with log books.

-Factory fitted cream leather as a dealer option .

-king springs lowered 1 1/2 inch's.

-factory cd with indash 6stacker.

-Engine has been pulled down and rebuilt with stronger internals (forged pistons etc) all work was done by croydon racing developments.

-vf22 turbo.

-APS cold air intake

-APS front mount intercooler ( core has been polished).

-HKS ssq show off valve

-Link computer.

-Custom made turbo back exhuast with JUN polished rear muffler

-G REEDY oil catch can

-Heavy duty clutch

-Fresh gearbox (rebuild cost close to 3k have reciept from M'Grahs at liverpool )

Can only be described as new only driven on weekends(when I get the time) stored in a secure lock up garage and waxed atleast once a week. Leather is in mint condition and I can't even remember the last time someone had sat in the back seat.

Car is currently making 168kw @ all four on the croydon's dynamics dyno at 16psi. The tune has a fair bit left in it with an upgraded fuel pump and fuel rail upgrade should make close to 200kw@all four.

Reason for sale have got bored with the car and want to make way for another nissan.

[email protected]

private message

or repley here

cheers

Brett

$33,500ono

793pffront-med.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39670-fs-my01-wrx-with-mods/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...