Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just signed up. I hold in my garage a 100% complete 71 2000GT-X KPGC10. Like most GT-X's, this one has been "converted" to appear as a GT-R. This is my latest project and one of very few cars I am extremely passionate about, assumingly along with a host of others here, as my little 71 didn't even make it home before being photographed on a tilt tray on the M4 and appearing on this forum...

So here poses my first ever forum question. WHO DO YOU TRUST to restore and customise a 71 Nissan?

This car has some awesome factory options including A/C, Power Windows, Tinted Front Screen, etc. Original exhaust with twin tips, complete dash, seats, and all parts bar one d/s mirror.

In view of possibly upsetting some, I will say I am not a purist and although I certainly appreciate those who are, I honestly believe you build something for yourself, the way you like it. So here are my plans, not sure if it will work but hey, it is my first time.

Mechanicals first so as not to damage the finished body work.

  • 300zx LSD rear end modified to suit width and 4 stud original wheels ( I was told the rear brakes will fit in 13in rims)
  • 300zx Gearbox and modified tail shaft (or other easily replaceable gearbox)
  • 300zx Front brakes with 4 stud disks
  • 300zx ABS system
  • S20 Twin cam (actual capacity as large as possible i.e 3L) with head work, ported, balanced and able to rev beyond 8000rpm
  • Fuel Injection with 6 throttle bodies (anodized)
  • Extractors onto free flowing exhaust with plenty of N/A noise (but maintaining the original twin tips)
  • Appropriate aftermarket computer i.e haltech, ems etc.
  • Appropriate fuel and ignition systems etc.
  • Suitable Clutch
  • Aluminium Radiator

Once all mechanics are done, the car will then be stripped for painting and restore.

Body Work

  • Bear metal respray in same Nissan 71 White. (there is sure to be some Jap fibreglass under that pretty paint)
  • Engine Rocker Cover painted in "wrinkle effect" red.
  • Badges rechromed and new resin as per factory spec
  • Front Grill, rear light surrounds and rear quarter badges rechromed and restored to original factory spec
  • Front and rear bars blue chromed (double chromed)
  • Any plastic chrome work restored to factory spec
  • New rubbers on doors, quarter windows, boot and throughout.
  • Blade under bonnet fabric as per factory spec.
  • New Headlights, HID preferred
  • Instrument cluster serviced and restored (nothing works better than old nissan gauges!!!)
  • Dash and console restored and re-finished to factory spec.
  • Seats and doors retrimmed to factory spec ( in lovely vinyl of course)
  • Carpets replaced throughout
  • seat belts updated in front and fitted to rear to comply with current laws (Nissan belts preferably)
  • Power Windows dismantled, serviced and restored to be functional
  • Complete rewire
  • All Bushes upgraded and replaced
  • Coil-over suspension
  • Strut Brace
  • Nardi steering wheel
  • All factory gear fitted and tested, A/C, etc.

As said, the above mods may be to everyones taste, but what I am trying to achieve is to have a car that performs like a modern day car without taking away what the vehicle is. Not being an original GT-R, I'm not that fussed in making changes and of course will hold on to all the original parts so anyone if they choose could put it back to standard.

After seeing numerous videos and resto projects on these vehicles, I feel these mods will make this example one of the most functional and fastest N/A GT-X's around. All the N/A sound with the benefit of fuel injection and a car that rev's and hammers without fear of breaking 71 running gear...

So back to the original question, who do you guys think would be able to undertake this project in Sydney?

Thanks in advance for all your help!

post-92975-0-50810500-1333551628_thumb.jpg

post-92975-0-46272600-1333551653_thumb.jpg

post-92975-0-24584700-1333551671_thumb.jpg

post-92975-0-96068800-1333551715_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/396990-71-2000gt-x-kpgc10-restoration/
Share on other sites

Hi!, firstly Welcome to the site :) that is a beautiful car you have there!

Not to rain on your parade but I would forget about the s20 as that alone will cost you upwards of 60k just to get one, let alone modify it. They are the most sort after Nissan engine. I would say an rb25 or rb26 head on the rb30 block would give you the results you seek. If you do remove the L series engine that is currently in it I would be interested in the weber carbies for my 77coupe.

Once again, welcome and great car!

Cheers

Jason

Welcome Dave,

First thing is..

How handy are YOU with tools?

re: 300zx parts,Im assuming z32 300zx?

If so,

the brakes will not go under 13" wheels.

Not even 14" ones.

15's are a minimum, and you still need to get wheels with enough brake caliper clearance. which most old school (watanabe, ssr mesh) dont have anyway unless you use spacers.

Welcome to the forum.

Yes it sure was spotted, here's the pic I took on the M4 for those that missed it

338409_10150448866132337_719527336_8857051_1700281302_o.jpg

With the S20 - as mentioned, it will cost a crazy amount to do, if thats not a problem then go for it :) If that kind of money isnt realistic, you can always go for a worked L series (which is popular in these) up to about 3.1L without much effort and will retain that awesome NA engine noise and throttle response.

Last S20 I saw on yahoo auctions was 1.8 million yen and didnt hit the reserve price if my japlish skills are up to par.

Here's a great little L series video

More details on that car

http://www.zcarblog.com/2012/02/27/performance/more-hakosuka-love-71-skyline-update.html

Also for the engine covers, most of the club guys use Craved Coatings because if you're really picky he can match whatever surface and colour you want from pictures etc

Awesome car!

Engine options - Besides the price the S series engine is very rare.

If you still want to keep it as an L series engine get an EFI version from a 280ZX.

Not sure if you want to keep it n/a or go turbo, but an RB series engine is your best option for being common and prices are reasonable.

We've been waiting for this to pop up since Steve spotted it. Him and I are both working on C110's ourselves.

We've watched S20's in parts going for upwards of 10k on Yahoo Japan, an S20 is not an option, if you could afford an S20 you'd be buying a GTR hehe :)

Parts for C10's seem to be a lot more common than the C110's, I see heaps on Yahoo and also heaps on websites etc.

Good luck with the project.

For L series engine modification , and being Syd based?

http://www.swmotorsport.com.au/

If you want something very very decent (as in best in Australia)

Les Collins & Peter McDonnell Race Engines have just recently built a L34 (Yes, 3400cc L6) and it would cost alot, but in a car like this, I reckon it deserves it. 350HP at the flywheel (260kW) at 7000rpm....

For alot less $$$ a RB with individual throttles (efi) would be pretty good too.

Check out :

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2009/10/06/car-feature-gt-gt-the-ultimate-street-kpgc10.aspx

First thing i would do is give it a bath and polish :)

Having just been though a bare metal resparay, its about how much you want to spend. Lots of shops around that can do a great job but for around 10k-15k price range >_<

As has been said S20 is wasted on copys, L31 is what im going for down the track stick with carbys too.

SWR will do all the engine and diff work like most specialized shops be prepaired to pay. There are number of good shops around that could take it on, maybe give us am area of sydney to give you the close's, but the likes of UAS, CRD, Advan racing would have no problems as well.

Looks like a nice starting point, should be good old school skyline meets next year LOL

Brad

Hi Mate,

Great car- very excited for you to be building up that. I have to agree with the guys and say keep the L series. You can do a bit with it, and its more in the nature of the car than a RB. Grow to love Carbs!

Again, if you are a big money player (we just are all speculating!happy.gif) Then forget the S20.

You want to turn over every rock in the world and find a OS Giken TC24-B1. Yes, they are big money. Yes they are very rare. Yes, they are porno to a PMC/Datsun/Nissan fan.

OSG-17.jpg

IMG_0032.JPG

lol was going to mention the OS engine. Except there were only 11 original heads made back in the 70's.. And the latest incarnation (if you could even secure an order) costs 90 grand for a complete engine with ITB's.

L31 built locally with ITB's is what you want.

Hot car anyway.. Would be interesting to know what it set you back.

  • 2 weeks later...

If you want something very very decent (as in best in Australia)

Les Collins & Peter McDonnell Race Engines have just recently built a L34 (Yes, 3400cc L6) and it would cost alot, but in a car like this, I reckon it deserves it. 350HP at the flywheel (260kW) at 7000rpm....

This my friend, is awesome!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, really happy with how it all turned out As for aftermarket lip, nah, I'm not really a fan for practically reasons on a street car that gets driven everywhere  I did have the full lower kit on my 2015 STI, but found the front lip scrapped alot, even at stock 4x4ish ride height As the NC sits now, with the lowest point of the car at 110mm, so just legal, some steep driveways and steep speed humps will still "just" scrap those little plastic OEM air dam thingies on the undertray just before the front wheels
    • Here's one I help build and tuned a decade ago, Garrett  GTX3071R Gen 1, T3 twin scroll 0.83 rear housing. Went from larger 272 cams down to smaller Tomei Poncams to help with the low end. S13 non VCT motor. Car was purpose built for the track, hence low down was the focus. Note the actual dyno chart shows lower boost, however the EBC and boost gauge showed 1.9Bar (Ignore the torque, I was young and didn't know how to set derived torque)  
    • I’m doing some side developments on SR20det S13 engines, its one my hobby cars used it to compare flow capacity of some smaller size wheels. SR20det is one of another JDM legendary engines I'm sure there are plenty of SR enthusiasts on this forum, I will share results some common turbo configurations here. a quick run down of what the car is: Wide body 180sx Type X with black top engine (blue). It has: Stock bottom end Haltech 1500 ECU 5-0 motorsports trigger kit Kelford SR20DET Beehive Spring with Titanium Retainers Kelford Cams SR20DET S13 188-B 268/272 Cams G25-660 Turbocharger in T2 .64 rear housing internally gated ARP Head studs MLS head gasket 1000CC ID injectors Walbro 450L Fuel pump Front mount cooler kit JJR’s 3 inches turbo back exhaust (its too short for the 180sx it had to be extended) Pump 98 fuel Hub Dyno tune So far made 270rwkws at 22psi full boost by 4500RPM. Engine is very knock limited hence a pretty bad looking top end. From previous experiences it seems like SR20dets are happier with bigger size turbine, some thing like a GT30 would make way better top end, but on same time response is lost. It won't be a problem with S15 VCT engines. I'll be testing alternative turbine housing, turbine wheel and possibly dump pipe options for extra flow to resolve the problem and of course E85 would resolve all the issues.            
    • Awesome writeup and details. Thanks for sharing the story so far. I can relate to parts of it with my previous car and some of the issues I had to deal with.
    • Wow the colour matched hard top completely transforms the car. Are there any nice front lip options for the car or is that off the table?
×
×
  • Create New...