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Parts For Budget Forged Rb25

LANDSCRIBBLE
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LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
Posted

Hi people, so im trying to suss out a few things (lots and lots of things really).

Car is a 1996 R33 GTS-t currently making 375rwhp on 20psi, daily driven with light track work in mind.

Im looking at getting a basic forged motor built for me. I will be sourcing and acquiring the parts over the coming months. (plenty of time to get the block and crank prepared)

Any help, light shedding, tips, guidance, 1st hand stories or anything regarding parts i should or should not get, or things i should or should not do would be greatly appreciated.

I am leaning towards;

ACL race bearings (big end, rod, thrust). The obvious choice it seems.

CP pistons. 8.5:1/9.0:1? Should do the job?

Eagle H beam rods (rated for 550 odd rwkw). So i take it they wont mind 400-450rwhp.

Cometic MLRS 1.3mm headgasket. Again seems like the most common headgasket to use. Is 1.3mm alright?

ARP headstud kit. ^ As above

Then i have the oil problem issues i need to rectify;

so, crank collar mod, crankshaft plug mod, oil restrictor/gallery mod(s). Are there any other ones i have missed? I know theres a thread on here about some of them, i will have to read over more thoroughly.

Probably a bunch of other sh*t i forgot to add, but thats all the main parts i think. So yea, really would be good to know what you guys :thanks:.

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badhairdave Proficient

badhairdave

Posted
Posted

Unless you plan on going for more power then the stock bottom end is fine.

That said, if you are going for a little bit more power then keep it simple, pistons, rods, rod bolts, head studs. Replace valve springs while it's apart. Stock everything else, maybe a sump if you are rally concerned but in general rb25s are happy on the track with a bit of extra oil in the sump.

Oil control problems start when you upgrade the oil pump. Keep that in mind.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

can I just asked , what is with this term "FORGED MOTOR" that people seem to throw around so loosely...

Now I can understand you put forged pistons in it, maybe conrods/crank too.. but isnt that where the forging ends..

I was telling some guy about my car a few days ago, about how much power it was making and his first statement was "is it a forged motor"..I just dont get it :unsure:

Is it just a laymans term for "I dont really know alot about engines so I will say the word FORGED MOTOR cause it sounds cool"

or is it actually a recognised term that I'm just not up to date with yet...??????

To me a forged motor might be something you build for a full blown drag car, a new set of pistons/rods does not mean you have a forged engine..Please correct me if I am wrong

Anyway Landscribble have fun spending money, personally I would be satisfied with 400WHP and spend my 10k+ on good oil control and 4 or 5 secondhand engines :laugh:

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Here's the oil control thread:

http://www.skylinesa..._sk+oil+control

Thats the one, cheers.

Unless you plan on going for more power then the stock bottom end is fine.

That said, if you are going for a little bit more power then keep it simple, pistons, rods, rod bolts, head studs. Replace valve springs while it's apart. Stock everything else, maybe a sump if you are rally concerned but in general rb25s are happy on the track with a bit of extra oil in the sump.

Oil control problems start when you upgrade the oil pump. Keep that in mind.

I never know i might get bored of 400hp and upgrade the turbo and chase 500+rwhp, which i think is what will actually happen eventually lol. I will be using the stock rb25 oil pump, so i can overfill my sump (1-1.5L i think it was)?

Just use GTR Rods & pistons to suit, tried and proved to over 400rwkw. You'll save another $600 or so there if needed.

Thats what i was thinking of doing initially, my only issue is the thought of using unknown conditioned second hand parts. I really wouldnt mind spending that little extra for some new forged items just for piece of mind, especially when we can get some good deals from the states at the moment.

can I just asked , what is with this term "FORGED MOTOR" that people seem to throw around so loosely...

Now I can understand you put forged pistons in it, maybe conrods/crank too.. but isnt that where the forging ends..

I was telling some guy about my car a few days ago, about how much power it was making and his first statement was "is it a forged motor"..I just dont get it :unsure:

Is it just a laymans term for "I dont really know alot about engines so I will say the word FORGED MOTOR cause it sounds cool"

or is it actually a recognised term that I'm just not up to date with yet...??????

To me a forged motor might be something you build for a full blown drag car, a new set of pistons/rods does not mean you have a forged engine..Please correct me if I am wrong

Anyway Landscribble have fun spending money, personally I would be satisfied with 400WHP and spend my 10k+ on good oil control and 4 or 5 secondhand engines :laugh:

Sorry for the pain i have caused you Artz. i will ask a moderator to change the thread title and edit out my incorrect terminology for an engine rebuild for you as soon as possible.

.. Were you slightly drunk when you typed that by any chance? :rofl2:

if the bottom end hasnt blown up or started to breathe heavily, keep using it.

if or when it gets tired then replace it. the stock engine is a tough little cookie.

This is what ticks me off, I really only need to replace the crankshaft because the keyway on the front is totally screwed, the rest of the bottom end is probably A1. I didnt want to pay to have the motor pulled out, disassembled, just to replace the crankshaft. Figured i should bite the bullet and upgrade a few things while im at it.

Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

Posted
Posted

can I just asked , what is with this term "FORGED MOTOR" that people seem to throw around so loosely...

Now I can understand you put forged pistons in it, maybe conrods/crank too.. but isnt that where the forging ends..

I was telling some guy about my car a few days ago, about how much power it was making and his first statement was "is it a forged motor"..I just dont get it :unsure:

Is it just a laymans term for "I dont really know alot about engines so I will say the word FORGED MOTOR cause it sounds cool"

or is it actually a recognised term that I'm just not up to date with yet...??????

To me a forged motor might be something you build for a full blown drag car, a new set of pistons/rods does not mean you have a forged engine..Please correct me if I am wrong

Anyway Landscribble have fun spending money, personally I would be satisfied with 400WHP and spend my 10k+ on good oil control and 4 or 5 secondhand engines :laugh:

I think you'll find it's a colloquial term for an engine which has been rebuilt with forged internals (or at least pistons). It's a bit easier than having to type "building an engine with forged pistons and possibly conrods" every time you want to refer to a "forged motor".

I tend to agree with some of what's been said by others. Unless you are aiming for significantly more power, why bother doing a "budget" rebuild? Keep what you've got and either rebuild it once it's cactus or just get another second hand long motor and switch it.

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ok lets say i get bored of 400rwhp in a year or 2 and want to see what 500+rwhp feels like. It would be nice knowing that i've got a strong engine and not some used 16 year old motor that will blow up any second, let alone with 400rwhp and 20psi being shoved through it all day.

ARTZ Grand Master

ARTZ

Posted
Posted

Sorry for the pain i have caused you Artz. i will ask a moderator to change the thread title and edit out my incorrect terminology for an engine rebuild for you as soon as possible.

.. Were you slightly drunk when you typed that by any chance? :rofl2:

I wish I was drunk at 11 in the morning..lol..sorry to sound like an ass but its just been bugging me lately hearing the term forged engine, mostly from numptys who dont believe im pushing 250+ at the wheels and seem to think you need a forged engine to run anything over 200kw though..I tell them some are pushing 350kw and they just think Im on drugs..

It wasnt meant to be a personal attack at you who actually has a clue of what is going on.........

I was just wondering if maybe I had it all wrong

LANDSCRIBBLE Mentor

LANDSCRIBBLE

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I wish I was drunk at 11 in the morning..lol..sorry to sound like an ass but its just been bugging me lately hearing the term forged engine, mostly from numptys who dont believe im pushing 250+ at the wheels and seem to think you need a forged engine to run anything over 200kw though..I tell them some are pushing 350kw and they just think Im on drugs..

It wasnt meant to be a personal attack at you who actually has a clue of what is going on.........

I was just wondering if maybe I had it all wrong

Haha no worries i was taking the piss. I've also been getting alot of that, "375hp!! 20psi!! on stock motor?!!!!?11". I say yea heaps of people have been doing it for years.

.. So it looks like the most sensible option would be to just replace my crankshaft and maybe the big end bearings. Wait till it goes bang, then replace with a 2nd hand motor.

Now i know the saying "If its not broken, dont fix it". But what about the "Do it once, do it right"?

I may get some poncams later and new valve springs so it could potentially make 450rwhp. Lol I dont think i could sleep at night knowing a tired 16 yr old motor has to cope with that amount of stress.

I appreciate the help and the way you guys are trying to steer me away from throwing my hard earned down the drain. But i will be keeping this car for a while now and as much as i hate to say it and as stupid as this sounds, and i am prepared to spend a few extra grand on replacing perfectly fine components. >_<

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

You'll spend easily 8k by the time you've done it all, potentially more.

Whilst it's out you might as well give the head a tidy up & new springs and so on, sort out all the oil issues etc.

Hence just wait till it breaks. It might not, and you are financially much better off.

If it does, then deal with it.

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted

Love it when idiots put forged pistons in and say it's a fully forged engine.

Got forged pistons? Then it's not a fully forged engine

Got forged pistons and rods? Then it's not a fully forged engine

Got forged pistons and rods AND aftermarket $5000 crank - THEN you can use the term.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

No JZs 2 Shit!

Someones gonna say it so it might aswell be me.... Instead of replacing the crank why not swap that torqueless bottom end for a RB30? $50 bottom end and you have your good condition crank already assembled with everything you need for 300+rwkw :thumbsup:

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