Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys need to get rid of the following parts..dont suite my application anymore

1 - Blitz Dual Solenoid Spec R Boost Controller - $325

2 - Power Enterprise 800cc Top Feed Injectors x6 - $650 - Never seen one bit of fuel

3 - Ase Catch Can, Painted black with -10 drain welded on - $100

4 - HKS Spf Reloaded 4" neck Air Filter - 100 - Pretty Much New

5 - Surge Tank Setup With Bosch 044 and all lines in picture - $180

6 - Mspec Alloy Rad With Two Thermos, Not sure of brand and size of thermos, they work though haha - $200

7 - Greddy Bar and Plate Intercooler bent at bottom and top from some idiot jacking the car up with it :S - $120 - Still holds boost fine just bent

8 - R33 Dash Cluster - $85

9 - R33 Standard spoiler - $60

10 - R33 Carbon Bonnet in nissan black, very good condition.. ill have to get some actual pics of it but its the exact same as the one in the pics ive put up. UAS sell these for 1200 unpainted.. i will let mine go for $800

11 - RB25 long motor - is in brisbane atm

has head oil drain mod and two -10 fittings welded onto sump.. rocker covers need resealing as they are leaking.. other than that runs very good, not sure of compression did not test before i took it out..

does not come with exhaust manifold, upper half of intake manifold, injectors, coil packs or power steering pump..

motor has oil on it at the moment from the leaking rocker covers and unless i can convince my mate who will be meeting you for the sale to clean it, thats how it will stay.. as unfortunately i am in mackay and wont be back until april 30th for a month

Price - $950

anyways pics are below.. pm me or msg me on 0433549640, im on nightshift at the moment so msg me anytime of the day.

located in mackay qld.. i will be in brisbane for a month after april 30th so if you live down there and want a big item let me know and we can sort it out.

DSC_0331.jpg

DSC_0319.jpg

DSC_0311.jpg

DSC_0323.jpg

DSC_0338.jpg

DSC_0336.jpg

DSC_0333.jpg

DSC_0326.jpg

DSC_0339.jpg

cbonnet33series1.jpg

cbonnet33series1b.jpg

Edited by spenda

intercooler, surge tank setup, radiator, spoiler and dash cluster gone.. make an offer on the rest of the stuff need it all gone.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate is have you still got the air filter and is it just the air filter or is it the intake pipe aswell? And do you have the Blitz boost controller still PM me cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...