Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi all, recently in all this rain we have had i stupidly ended up sinking my r33 resulting in the engine sucking water and stalling. Insurance decided not to rebuild the engine just to repair. Since picking up the car its been blowing oil out the exhaust, getting heaps of oil out of the breather (never happened before), dropping oil pressure randomly, and there is a massive tick on acceleration (sounds like a vw bug). i sent it back to get repaired again but i think they are just going to dodgey it up again.

what im after is some advice on the bare minium things everyone thinks should be changed since every mechanic ive spoke to says it shouldv'e been a full rebuild in the first place, so i can't understand why it only had an oil change and flush and the a/c pump replaced.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397240-water-damaged-rb25/
Share on other sites

Did the engine definately suck water?

Probably busted rings or bent rods possibly blown head gasket.. get a leakdown and compression test done. Its possible to have twisted your crank too if its hydraulic locked with water. unfortunately the shit doesnt compress. the oil sounds a bit odd. Blowing smoke?

One of those insurance companier with lifetime warrenty on repairs? Sounds like you should read the PDS, phone em up to see if they'll cover your repaired motor, and then once satisfied they'll cover it, blow that shit up and get a new motor from them.

Should never have been flushed and put back on the road with a knock coming from it. Thats just unprofessional work as an assessor IMO.

Well I'm guessing since they touched the engine at all it must have been covered, if the engine is not performing as it should give your insurance company a call and explain it, also have a look at your policy and see exactly whats covered and how. In the meantime call ACCC and explain what is going on, they will let you know what your rights are based on your policy. Surprised it is running at all, like trying to compress concrete.

engine defintly sucked water pulled the intake off and was full of water and went back and checked it the next day and there was heaps of water in the oil. Didn't hydro lock car coughed and splutted and died then i had to start it again as it all happened on a corner down a hill so had to start it and drive up the street after nearly getting cleaned up by a truck (just cars don't do tows of a night). yer it blows smoke not much at idle but heaps when driving.

The car is insured with just cars i've spoke to them and they have said theres a life time warrenty on repairs so it should get fixed i just want a ruff idea of what should be done because im not picking it up this time until everything is done (they didnt even replace the airfilter the first time). I don't want to try and screw them for a new engine ill just be happy with the car in the same condition as before the water.

Well I'm guessing since they touched the engine at all it must have been covered, if the engine is not performing as it should give your insurance company a call and explain it, also have a look at your policy and see exactly whats covered and how. In the meantime call ACCC and explain what is going on, they will let you know what your rights are based on your policy. Surprised it is running at all, like trying to compress concrete.

yer i think ill have to give the accc a call just incase. The misses dad owns a panel shop and he can't belive the condition the car is in and how unproffesional they have been.

Its the last time i pick up a car in a rush without leaving enough time to check it out

engine defintly sucked water pulled the intake off and was full of water and went back and checked it the next day and there was heaps of water in the oil. Didn't hydro lock car coughed and splutted and died then i had to start it again as it all happened on a corner down a hill so had to start it and drive up the street after nearly getting cleaned up by a truck (just cars don't do tows of a night). yer it blows smoke not much at idle but heaps when driving.

The car is insured with just cars i've spoke to them and they have said theres a life time warrenty on repairs so it should get fixed i just want a ruff idea of what should be done because im not picking it up this time until everything is done (they didnt even replace the airfilter the first time). I don't want to try and screw them for a new engine ill just be happy with the car in the same condition as before the water.

No mate, you pay your premiums, they OWE you a complete and proper service.

You don't "want" to get a new engine out of them, you NEED to.

I would not be happy with anything less.

Your not entitled to a new engine.

You entitled to an engine of the same condition as the one which was damaged.

You'd also find it's probably not the insurance companies fault it wasn't repaired Properly to begin with.

The repairer usually submits a quote to properly repair the vehicle. The assesor clarifies the repairers quote and decideds how the repairs procede (you paid out or the vehicle repaired etc)

Authority is given to the repairer then it's repaired and just cars are invoiced.

Sounds as though the repairer has had a lend of the insurance company at your expense.....

hopefully all sorted i was contacted by the workshop today and they have offered to buy the car off me for more or less my insurance write off price so they dont have to warrent any more repairs. thanks guys for all the info.

p.s if anyone knows of a 32 33 for around 10k thats not on the for sale thread let me know

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Doing a refresh of my 33 and can see a few websites stating they sell the entire main carpet for our cars, but they all have generic photos which is fine, i understand they are custom made to order.  Just seeing if anyone has got it done or had any experience with this, as i would only want to do it if the fit and finish was as good as oem https://carmatsdirect.com.au/products/moulded-carpet-or-vinyl-for-nissan-skyline-r33-1993-1998-coupe https://knoxautocarpets.com.au/moulded-carpets/nissan/skyline/skyline-r-33-1993-1998/
    • Any plans for E85? If so, add flex fuel sensor.   I'd probably add in the sensors I mentioned above if the Link will support using them for engine protection. With water pressure, you need to be able to effectively set it that "If temp > X, and pressure = atmospheric, shutdown" as at running temp, you should be able to read pressure in the cooling system. If pressure suddenly disappears, it means the water went some where, and this is a quicker reaction than waiting on water temp to go up (Which, can take a little longer than you'd like, considering it now has to wait for hot air to heat it up) Oil pressure, Oil temp, both would be on my list too if you're looking to add sensors. Wideband O2. And at least one EGT sensor. If you're feeling deluxe, put in individual runner EGTs. Single EGT sensor is more so forget about a specific number, get used to "What is normal EGTs", and then keep an eye on it, if it starts going away from "normal" it's a sign something is wrong (Also, things like the tune can still start going out of spec, but EGTs may not show it, for example one injector starts running leaning, so ECU richens everything up, now 5 out of 6 cylinders are rich, and running cool, with one cylinder lean and running hotter, so it's not perfect) Then there is your other things to look at non sensor related, but you may have already done, or have underway, and that would be things like building a sump for more oil, and better oil control under high G-Forces (Cornering, brakes, acceleration). Basically, the above is worth looking/thinking about, if the ECU can do protective stuff with it, and you continue to use it how you are (Drive it to the track, thrash it, drive home, repeat once every 3 to 4 months)
    • Can also confirm these work a treat for most balljoints and bushes. If you have access to a big rattle gun, they make the job so much easier and quicker, compared to using a socket wrench or shifter on the c-clamp 👍
    • Its sort of street but got used for circuit sprints on account of I never drive it on the road because I dont have the time to spare. So it usage was sits around for months at a time then gets driven either 50 or 250 kms to the track followed by 20 laps followed by 50 or 250kms home followed by stuck in the shed until next time. So yeah neither fish nor fowl. Just dont want to break it on the track as a preference. Hence the fairly short sensor/mod list. Probably more worried about it pinging itself to destruction more so than anything oil related.
    • My thing I'd be doing, is pulling it out, and just getting the tune cleaned up for now. Before that even happens, checking over everything, like vac hoses, fuel hoses, etc. No point dropping thousands on sensors if the moment you start it back up all the oil leaks out, or it has massive vacuum leaks etc.   But really, to know what to do, depends on what your use case is. Hard core track car? Throw most sensors available at it. Street car, I'd probably just run oil pressure, oil temps, water pressure, water temp, probably fuel pressure too. I don't know exactly what the Link can handle and do with those though. And if it's mainly just to cruise the streets, rather than mountain runs, you can probably skip most of the above if you've already got them in as gauges and warning lights.   PS, inb4 "sell it and buy a modern sportscar"
×
×
  • Create New...