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1992 R32 GTS-T Type M - Manual

-Bosch 040 with relay

-300x600 front mount

-Pod filter with cold air box

-Superspark coil packs

-3 inch dump back exhaust

-Turbotech boost controller

143.5 rwkW @ ~11psi (Several months ago)

Recently embarked on a further set of upgrades

-Bosch Z32 AFM

-Denso 550cc injectors (bought second hand, cleaned and tested by KPM)

-Nistune computer

-Garrett GT2871R in RB25 housings

-3 inch Advance dump pipe

-Gutted cat

-New spark plugs (NGK platinum 7s)

Tuned on Thursday - 170 rwkW @ 16psi

Ran out of time at the dyno due to wasting most of the day with faulty computers and AFMs and I'm due back first thing on Tuesday (only got half an hour on the dyno by the time we got a working computer).

Very anxious as I was led to believe this setup should put out ~200 rwkW at ~16 psi and would be capable of 220kW plus at safe boost levels.

Dyno technician mentioned the carbon blowing out of the exhaust could indicate injectors not atomising correctly - how could this be? how much would this effect peak power?.

Current tune is quite laggy and rich, runs like a bitch when cold and stalls easily - still feels better than 143.5 and spins up much easier.

Is this purely a result of lack of dyno time and therefore rectified on Tuesday?

Any comments on this performance?

Cheers

Luke

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I'm waiting to borrow a mates compression tester at the moment.

What's bothering me is I was already making 145 with the stock turbo and could've made 170 on stock turbo, injectors and AFM if i was willing to run a bit more boost...

I had a shit copy which was giving funny voltage signals so borrowed the tuners car to go pick up a genuine one, intend to get my money back on the crap one.

The tuner intends to keep working on it but 170 kW at 16 pound isn't very comforting.

Not at all mate

Stock cars with just a nistune pull figures close to 200kw

Something must be causing a restriction somewhere.

Is the rest of the exhaust 3 inch?

Also is the power figure limited by knock, is this why he doesn't want to push it further or it just won't pull further?

Not at all mate

Stock cars with just a nistune pull figures close to 200kw

Something must be causing a restriction somewhere.

Is the rest of the exhaust 3 inch?

Also is the power figure limited by knock, is this why he doesn't want to push it further or it just won't pull further?

Kasko a rb20 wont make 200kw with just a nistune

Exhaust is 3 inch all the way, empty cat, muffler with twin tips,overall power figure was limited by time mainly, a mate who went to the same tuner had a similar setup wound out to 237 kW @ ~20 psi, just can't see why I should be making 170 kW @ 16 psi, is this just a lack of tuning or an inherent problem with my setup (i.e. will they be able to make up ~30 kW at the same boost just through tuning).

Edited by Luke HCR32

I had a shit copy which was giving funny voltage signals so borrowed the tuners car to go pick up a genuine one, intend to get my money back on the crap one.

The tuner intends to keep working on it but 170 kW at 16 pound isn't very comforting.

Are u 100% sure the afm was a fake? Does it have the nissan logo on it?

Yeah it was sold as a non genuine AFM which was apparently "as good as genuine" no stickers or anything, dodgy looking filament, mesh only on one end of the tube, tuner said they've dealt with them before and they're rubbish.

The one I have now is a Bosch and has the orange Z32 JECS sticker on it, not sure about a Nissan logo but has the same build quality as my stock R32 AFM.

Yeah just go through the usual shit.

Check the timing, ensure the belt isn't off a tooth or similar. Comp test and so on.

You've already said it stalls so likely VAC leaks somewhere as well which won't be helping matters.

Could be many things really, just have to work at it slowly. Hardly anything to worry about yet.

Find the issue and you'll be sorted. Wind in 20psi and you'll see 200-220rwkw. In fact if you did that now, and tuned it. You'd be around 200-210rwkw which realistically isn't "that" far off the mark. Hard call when you aren't using genuine housings.

Stop worrying and let the tuner finish his work.

I had a ~40 RWKW difference between a finished "Tune", and then a check/small touch up tune. Bare in mind, this was on an RB30DET but still goes to show what some extra time/work can do.

The problem with my original tune was:

a) not enough timing overall

b) not enough fuel coming on full boost to stop detonation when running extra timing

c) some rough patches in the tune which made the car a little less drive-able.

Funnily enough it made more power everywhere once the above was fixed up.

Those 2871R's arnt that brilliant, especially in rb25housings, well on the rb25 anyway

i had one and it was not easy to tune , i had the stock actuator on there and the tuner had problems getting it to hold boost at the top end, that was the 56trim version

i made 214kw on a rb25 with power fc and usual mods using an avcr to hold 18psi, 170psi in each cylinder compression

200kw must be an awesome result for a rb20 with this turbo.

To be honest your 143rwkw@11psi is on the low side. The stock turbo's don't do anything special power wise past 12psi anyway so i'd say you were already 20rwkw down. Cant say if it's the dyno or the car.

From what you've said the car is currently running like a bag of crap, which i'd expect with half an hour to play with. It shouldn't have much done beyond a bit of light load tuning and maybe a run up to check that it's safe. Plenty more in it.

Also, re the 200@16 comment. Unless someone has had it on an RB20 i'd be doubtful. On an sr20 yeah, on an rb25 yeah, maybe less boost, on an rb20 no, they just seem to need a bit more boost to make the same numbers.

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