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Because people like Gregged stories, I'll elaborate. I ordered a front end, being a GTR conversion front bumper, CF hood, to go with my URAS wider front fenders. These took a good ~year to arrive. They had arrived when I dropped them off at paint shop 1 and are in that large pile of car panels. Unfortunately _some_ of it didn't fit very well/at all, though to be more accurate it's safer to say it didn't fit with each other. A lot of GTR conversion parts, really are just GTR parts. GTR fiber replicas need GTR guards. Because GTR fenders flare out more than GTT fenders. Even GTT fenders that are flared out by the same amount GTR fenders are. The GTR conversion/GTR bumper I was sold is no longer for sale as the company involved recognized the issues with it and refunded it, beyond this situation. The bonnet and bumper gap was... this. They then sent a redesigned bumper, but this still had the issue with the width, and then advised me I needed GTR bracketry to fit this conversion bumper. Which, to me, is kind of crazy - Because if you need a GTR Reo, headlight supports, headlight brackets, and the mounting bracket (with the additional plate with the rubber strip) in order to mount your 'conversion' bumper, the bumper itself is just a GTR bumper. And when I mentioned this, not to mention the time and hassle of sending bumpers back and a forth and dealing with a busy company, I was able to make the statement that this is not made to fit a GTT at all, at least in the sense that you can't use any of it with any other GTT part. The bonnet worked, but without a bumper that can actually fit it was effectively just a GTR bonnet with GTT hinge points and latch points. Not much use if I can't use a bumper. Why would I (or anyone) buy a fibreglass GTR replica that costs more than an OEM plastic GTR bar, if I need to use all the GTR hardware to mount it anyway? Funny enough I had test fitted everything else except these bits. Obviously I should have. I saw pictures of things fitted but everything's not quite the same and unmentioned the fact people have made extra brackets or something to pull on these fibreglass bumpers. With the GTR brackets we were able to force the "second" bumper they sent us, but you shouldn't need two big guys forcing a fibreglass bumper over mounts you need to drill to get it to fit, using a lot of tension and a lot of force, the whole thing was completely taut and felt spring loaded to explode at any moment. In any case after all this faffing about, I eventually spoke to someone else at this company who advised I should have been sent the correct parts to begin with given they pulled up all my communications with what I had, what I wanted, what parts I was using, etc. But by this time the car had been sitting at Shop 1 for quite some time now and they didn't really just want to paint the rest of the car from A pillar back while this was all sorted out. I got a full refund and honestly everyone involved was perfectly nice and easy to deal with once I could get ahold of them, though it did need a bit of 'chasing' as you kinda expect. So then I had a stock front end again, and could have just fit the URAS fibreglass fronts and used an OEM front bumper and OEM hood and called it a day. But did I do that? No, I am retarded. Because I was paranoid about Mr Police in the future sticking a magnet to my front guards, or my bonnet and realising they weren't metal, I followed up on a tip I got from a friend who got his metal guards widened out. I had wanted to do this 'in the future some day' but thought I may as well just do this 'now' given I'd be driving around all paranoid about my fibreglass front fenders on my otherwise legal and engineered car. SO ANYWAY I engaged these people during the time I was returning the original body parts, so the car was at Shop 1 with no front end at all, not being fitted or being painted A pillar back even though I was more than happy to just get the front panels painted separately when they existed. (I understand the reasoning for not wanting this, but I was just trying to save time). And you guessed it, the metalbenders took much longer than they said they would take, and Shop 1 man had a medical issue where he had to close the shop indefinitely (legitimately). So even though I had to return a bunch of stuff, and a car sat around for months with no work being done on it, there's no actual bad blood there, so I don't want to name names and say "SHOP X SUCKS" just... do your diligence. Metalbender place returned my Bonnet and Guards to me eventually, which was when I realised THIS: Is going to make my life hard again, because having wider metal guards doesn't make much benefit if the actual point it hits is the connection between the bumper and the guard. Which is why Nissan flared it out, ostensibly. With regards to the bonnet, I needed vents in the first place because the car likes to overheat due to heat soak on 40C days with the aircon on, if the car has been driven for more than like 30 minutes. Only with the aircon on, only on days that hot, only when sitting, and only after ~30 minutes. So the logic behind it all was to cut vents in. I had originally thought to just the flat pieces out (not the webbing!) and put mesh in there, which would have worked fine. Then talking to the metalbenders I was convinced this was a bit agricultural and water would get in. STUPID EVERYONE INVOLVED didn't think of simply using a plastic engine cover on the engine, and we started talking about vent design and rain gutters instead. There was also the issue of while the guards both fit what I asked for, which was: "Can you replicate these URAS Fibreglass flares on these stock metal guards by the same distance, or maybe +10mm wider?" ..the issue was the guards weren't the same as one another when the job was done. Enough that when I fit them and went to paint places, the overriding feeling was "I can't get it painted while they're like that". So, I Karen'ed and they offered to fix them up to get them symmetrical again after I drove back and showed them, and we did the whole lean back from a few meters in front of the car, and: "Oh yeah" "ahhh yeah".. "Ahh, ... yeah, yeah nah yeah" ... and I then took them off and delivered them. I have it all back now, and while the guards are better they're still not symmetrical, and I'm paranoid about a tiny bit of webbing actually being cut with the vents installed, and only slightly remorseful about the fact that METALBENDING WAS REALLY EXPENSIVE, and it would have been cheaper to simply buy all of the Nissan OEM pieces, including $2200 aluminium bonnets, and $2000 guard sets and OEM plastic bumpers and get it done that way. YOU ARE WARNED. also, anyone wanna buy my GTR brackets between the headlights? Useful for someone doing this conversion and they cost about $1000 cause you didn't want to use/mark up/damage the fibreglass replica the company sold you to make their stuff fit (it won't fit). -
Thanks gents, I think I'll get a PSR and see how it goes. I saw an interesting video in YT where a guy stripped one and the bearings were similar to the GTX series instead of the newer G series, but for 40% of the Garrett price I suppose there has to be some sort of trade off! -
My opinion is they aren't worth double at all. Have used a good number of Pulsars with builds I've been involved with and tbh at least speaking for myself, Garrett aren't losing money they'd be getting if Pulsar didn't exist as for genuine Garrett money I'd probably be buying something other than Garrett. We've used Pulsar 6262G (G35 900 equivalent) on an RB26 with a twin scroll hotside and it picked up 40wkw at the same boost over the old twin -5s and the improvement in transient response over the twins changed the car - this is before you factor in the amount of further headroom of the G35. Have also used one on a 2JZ drag car which has run 9.6 @ 141mph not even trying, from what we've seen so far it'll potentially go 8s when we turn it up Crazy results for what is basically a NZ$1500ish turbo. -
By Super Drager · Posted
Mate i've used PSR turbos for years now and have never had an issue with them, the wheels measure the same as the real thing and i've seen them make the exact same power on the dyno pretty much back to back. Its upto you whether you'd want to spend the extra cash. -
By DraftySquash · Posted
Sorry to change topics here, but does anyone know where to get the O-ring for the radiator drain plug? I want to change the coolant this weekend but the manual says we should not reuse the radiator drain plug O-ring again? I did some Google search and is now getting bombarded with ads for a radiator drain plug kit 🤣 is that the O-ring? (posted pic of said ad) PS: @PranK Looks like I just needed a higher rank to post pics! It works now 🙌🏾
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