Jump to content
SAU Community

DYNO RESULT: GTR Before & After HKS GT2530

meshmesh

By meshmesh,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
meshmesh and busky2k,

You gotta understand that the previous figure of 270kw was within the stock engine's capabilities but pushing the factory turbos to their limit.

The new setup is well within the aftermarket turbos' capablities, but pushing the stock engine towards it's limits (of reliability more so than power).

There is more to be had from the 2530s if you are prepeared to lean on them, i got 400rwkw on stock engine and know someone who had 440rwkw on a built engine.

400 and 440 rwkw from GT2530s???? Amazing :D

  • Replies 86
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

benjiman74,

Bens was done in shootout mode. the dyno I attached doesn't show it. The other dyno sheet I have does. You should be able to find it in my original thread some time ago when I got it done.

dave,

Dunno...?? as far as I know there aren't any disadvantages. But considering I'm running stock dumps, It seems the boys from at ICE were correct.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Are you sure bens was in shootout mode? He never uses shootout to tune cars... why would he have used it for yours?

My 270 is definatly not in shootout mode..

on another note.. i was playing with my boost on the way home. it comes on around 3000rpm, and seems to be on full boost by about 4000rpm... this was playing with 4th and 5th since i was kind of in traffic... i'm pretty sure its the same through most of my gears, boost starts to come in around 3k and is pretty much on fully by 4k

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted
Dunno...?? as far as I know there aren't any disadvantages. But considering I'm running stock dumps, It seems the boys from at ICE were correct.

How do you know they were correct? You don't know how aftermarket dumps would affect your setup...

You've only seen one side of the equation so far... For all you know HKS/Mines/CES dumps could lower your lag by 500rpm and give you 20awkw more power? :dunno:

Emre Proficient

Emre

Posted
Posted
Posted by Merli  

400 and 440 rwkw from GT2530s???? Amazing

406.1 and 443.7 to be exact, these are rwkw in shootout mode using race fuel. I don't like quoting power figures but the point i was trying to make was the ability of 2530s. My car has gone 126.7 mph and the other did 129 mph, in full street trim.

In defence of ICE, maybe we should clear some of the issues.

Ice and Racepace have a lot of cars in database for comparison purposes.

Did they tell you not to go with the dump pipes or did they suggest you not to bother. Similar thing could be said regarding the cams, intercoolers etc, there is no denying they wouldn't hinder the performance, but if the gains are marginal or not very cost effective you can choose not to have them.

JAGR33 Grand Master

JAGR33

Posted
Posted

Congratulations Simon, you must be very happy with the result as it was exactly what you were chasing!!!!

I'm sure this power would be enough for the time being, until the 'power bug' bites you again.....

Three words to describe 2530's - AWESOME STREETABLE POWER'

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How do you know they were correct? You don't know how aftermarket dumps would affect your setup...

You've only seen one side of the equation so far... For all you know HKS/Mines/CES dumps could lower your lag by 500rpm and give you 20awkw more power? :dunno:

Merli,

I'm not sure who's misunderstanding what here?? :dunno: :D

What I mean in reply to dave's question

Simon,

What are the negatives to aftermarket dumps... ? I know negatives of pods, but I was under the assumption that dumps were always a good idea... obvioulsy wrong !

that I am unaware of any disadvantages of installing dumps... and if anything only advantages. You'll also see I replied in an earlier post

However... I do think it would help reduce lag. I'll wait & see.

But the dyno tells the story... as it stands so far the boys have been correct about the dumps. I'm not making this gospel by any means, I'm only comparing to other GTR Dyno results with similar mods to mine. The same as others will possibly refer to this thread.

I also tried to supply as much info as possible "unlike jezzzzr" [no offence mate], that's why I posted both dyno read outs, that show 2 different (before & after tunes in the) before_2530.jpg & the new mods in the after_2530.jpg.

If it helps I can also post up the dyno sheets, which I felt weren't that important as they show the power curve & boost level which I felt wasn't as important as the AF ratio's.

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
  • Author
Posted
there is no denying they wouldn't hinder the performance, but if the gains are marginal or not very cost effective you can choose not to have them.

f**k... Emre, your spot on, that's what I've been trying to say for the power target I was trying to achieve it wasn't worth it for such little gain. Thanks.

T0nyGTSt Grand Master

T0nyGTSt

Posted
Posted

I have the same starting problem on my car. It's like as if the starter motor is dying but I think it's rather the pump is not getting enough amperage to kick over.

I'm pretty sure my pump was dropped in and there was nothing done to increase the capacity of the cables to the pump.

Mine does always start though, it is just recalcitrant to kick over.

T.

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tony,

It seems so far [touch wood] since replacing the battery this avo, she's kicking over better than ever. We removed the battery and it was a pissy 280cc thing suited for suzuki's and civic. We replaced it with a 450cc Calcium Maintenance free $100, and alls good so far.

Yep same thing, wants to start just reluctant to kick over, that's why we thought it could be fuel pump issue. So far so good with the new battery, maybe you should check your battery also.

Merli Grand Master

Merli

Posted
Posted

f**k... Emre, your spot on, that's what I've been trying to say for the power target I was trying to achieve it wasn't worth it for such little gain. Thanks.

I see what you mean, and fair comment I suppose...

FATGTS-R Experienced

FATGTS-R

Posted
Posted

Geez over 310 at the wheels. You must be wrapped. My friend just got back his supercharged Holden rodeo last night with a street tune of 310 to get a feel for it. ( It made near on 400 on the dyno ).

He let me drive it and its amazing to have that much power under your foot. Makes you respect what your sitting in a lot too as it could obviously be all over very quickly.

Are you planning to take it to the strip?

Snowman Grand Master

Snowman

Posted
Posted

I saw Simon last night and he looked as giddy as a school girl! lol

Great stuff mate I have to say. Will be interesting to do the back to back comparison with JAGR33 when his work gets complete in the next few days by the same guys to see the difference (Im not going to spoil it Jack! :rofl: )

Now mate all you have to do it get the 34 and do it all again! :D

EnricoPalazzo Grand Master

EnricoPalazzo

Posted
Posted

People get waay to tied up today with dyno numbers. Who really cares what XXX number it makes. So much power at the wheels, it pretty safe to say that u wont even know how to proprerly use that amount of power. Hell i dont think i can use all my 200 measly rwkws.

Meshmesh is very correct in that hes got what he wanted. I think its an excellent result for a street car, and those results are on par with other gtrs with 2530s. Obviouslt differnt dynos have silght discrepencies, maybe 5% between them.

Steve Grand Master

Steve

Posted
Posted

meshmesh, great result.

On the thing of dumps - I understand fully if you are 100% happy with your result, so I aint being smart.

I found huge gains in the exhuast side. back pressure really started killing my power above around 290rwkw. I upgraded to a freer flowing exhaust and brought boost on around 600rpm earlier, turbos were more responsive and I picked up top end.

Have you thought about getting the cat removed - this too can really crispen up the throttle and bring boost in earlier. And as for dumps, well there again I think you would find more response and less lag. For a street car, if you can get good response in by around 3-3500 its just about perfect.

Anyways each to their own. you have a great result there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Out of curiosity, what's the reason for converting? I think @R3N3 might have the Frenchy's kit in the R33? I somehow think of you as the ambassador for realistic and clean street-driven setups nowadays  
    • V35_Paul
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By V35_Paul · Posted

      careful when running the car after a boil over. Ive heard you can lose enough coolant that it won't show the right temps because of too much air in the system (or something like that). Make sure the levels are good before trying again.  Maybe a mobile mechanic can come have a look with their scan tool ?
    • GTSBoy
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, just for some extra clarity - there is more than one option at Frenchy's. 1. You can buy the whole kit - with or without the actual compressor. The whole kit includes mounts, hoses, condensor, etc. That's either ~$2200 or ~$2800. No surgery required with this option. 2. You can buy just the bracket (~$600), or the bracket with the compressor (~$1200). Either of this or the above option "without the compressor" is if you already have an Echo comp or you are able to source one locally. Whatever the case, in this option, you will need surgery done on your hoses to adapt to the new compressor. When I said "the Frenchy's kit", I meant the whole kit in option 1. It is obviously somewhat more $$ than a $1500 OEM compressor. But if I had to spend $1500 on an OEM compressor, I would certainly consider spending double that to renew and significantly update everything forward of the firewall. Another option is to rebuild your original compressor. My R34 comp is currently dead and I will be most likely doing that to it if the spare one in the shed is also leaky.
    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      I’m thinking that’s the route I’ll  go, thanks for the input!
    • carnoobb
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By carnoobb · Posted

      Hey all, my 2004 Nissan Skyline 350GT overheated the other day with coolant boiling and leaking out of the coolant reservoir when I was parking. So today, I started it up again just to see if it was a thermostat/head gasket issue. After about 20 mins of running, temps were normal again, no coolant was leaking out and the upper reservoir hose was warm but my engine suddenly cut off. I checked the oil dipstick and cap when it was running and there was no white foamy residue and the exhaust did not have white smoke. I tried starting up the car again but it would only crank, similar to when I had a camshaft sensor issue just that now there’s no check engine light on the dash. Any ideas? Unfortunately I don’t have an OBD2 that can read the Nissan's programme.
×
×
  • Create New...