Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Excellent guide mate.

never done this as I have been too scared incase I stuff up the timing.

Just to clarify - the tenisioner, when you put it back on you just simply thread the nut onto the bolt by hand, put the belt on and then use a hex key to slowly tighten it until there is a firm amount of preasure on the belt and the nut will tighten itself up? or what did I miss?

  • Like 1

Sorry for the late reply, I forgot i posted in this section!

Excellent guide mate.

never done this as I have been too scared incase I stuff up the timing.

Just to clarify - the tenisioner, when you put it back on you just simply thread the nut onto the bolt by hand, put the belt on and then use a hex key to slowly tighten it until there is a firm amount of preasure on the belt and the nut will tighten itself up? or what did I miss?

Once the belt is at the correct tension you'll have to tighten the nut.

  • 4 weeks later...

step 12 help.

you tension the belt with an allen key in the tensioner (as it shows in the picture for step 12) and then tighten the bolt that holds the tensioner in that tensioned position. you then turn the crank over 2 full rotations and check the timing marks are all lined up correctly. once you are happy with the timing marks (on both the cam pulleys and crank) you check the tension on the belt.

a quick note, if you go past the timing marks, do not turn the crank backward (counter clockwise) to line the timing marks up again as it moves the slack to the idler pulley side of the belt not the tensioner side (tensioner side is where you check belt tension) and can make you think the belt is tight when in actual fact, the slack will be between the crank pulley and the exhaust pulley. if this doesn't make sense to you, just remember, do not check the timing marks or belt tension after rotating the engine counter clockwise at all. if you go slightly past the timing marks, continue to rotate clockwise another 2 full rotations until they line up again (never rotate backwards), then check the tension.

only then once you're happy with the timing and tension after rotating clockwise you should do the final tension on the tensioner pulley bolt to ensure it will not loosen off over time and lose belt tension.

  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

hi in the final step, says 12 but im assuming its 13, it says to use threadlocker on the crank bolt, going through the pics it doesnt look like its ever taken out...

hi in the final step, says 12 but im assuming its 13, it says to use threadlocker on the crank bolt, going through the pics it doesnt look like its ever taken out...

The crank bolt is removed to get the balancer off then was put back in to bar the engine over. Would then have been taken out again, loctite-ed and re-installed after balancer was put on. Here is a screenshot from the workshop manual:

Timingbelttension_zpsad9ff647.jpg

It's a bit hard to understand but basically you need to install/torque the centred idler, leave the eccentric idler loose, bar the engine over CLOCKWISE (the most important bit) two rotations or more, then just use the allen key to hold it in the position its in while torqueing up the bolt for the idler

Also just a quick note guys, check your balancer condition when its out, mine broke and caused an oil leak etc only a few thousand kms after it was done so have a look for damage, there is pics of the old and new in my build thread somewhere but i am too lazy to find them for you lol

I was thinking about attempting this myself on my '34 but there are too many things

that go can wrong for my liking. Maybe some more clarification might help. As in,

did you use a specific tool to re-press the harmonic balancer back on? How did

you stop the engine from turning to loosen and tighten the crank bolt?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry for not replying guys, I've been away for ahwile!

I was thinking about attempting this myself on my '34 but there are too many things
that go can wrong for my liking. Maybe some more clarification might help. As in,
did you use a specific tool to re-press the harmonic balancer back on? How did
you stop the engine from turning to loosen and tighten the crank bolt?

I used a pry-bar to remove it, there are tool's made for removing the balancer but fitting it doesn't require anything; just make sure its pushed on as far as it can go and do up the bolt (Tight).

  • 2 weeks later...

hi thanks for the guide. just to clarify when you turn the crank by hand clockwise for 2 revolutions and it all lines up, it basically means the engine is in TDC (top dead centre) right? therefore you can tighten everything, re-assemble and start engine with keys?

If you have lined them up and turned it twice yes you can start the car. If you have a normal belt i dont see why you want to start the car unless if you have a Gates timing belt and you want to hear if it whirrrs. To instruct you safetly line them up all of them, tension it then turn it twice. Plus if you want to start it you need to have the CAS back in or else you might screw up your tune.

if im wrong may someone correct me but this is the procedure ive done.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
×
×
  • Create New...