How To Replace A Timing Belt (20/25/26) Pics!

[89CAL]

Or in my case, thrown the belt on, didn't use the spring, check cams align with timing marks, use Hex key to tension the belt to however tight I felt like setting it, torque up tensioner, stand back look at it and say "she'll be right" and it's good.

Wow.......

[iruvyouskyrine]

5 years, 7 cars, 12 timing belts, zero problems. Must be a pretty good guess.

[HarrisRacing]

I agree that it can be done. Rotating the crank to the correct location to slack-out the belt and setting some "moderate" tension on it is what the idea behind it is. Too tight will wear belt fast, too loose may cause jump (which would have to be obviously too loose IMO). Remember to watch the tensioner as you rotate, you'll be surprised by it's movement by nothing other than cams / crank loading up. IIRC they are using the most slacked point in the rotation (ie-most slack taken up by tensioner), so if you set too hard of tension there, it's only going to get tighter from there.

I see how it can be done your way...belt life may be diminished though. I'll trust the Nissan engineers got it right.

Either way this timing belt is EASY compared to most other OHV engines I have done.

[Ben C34]

I never trust the spring to set the tension.

[kharmata]

Thank you from abroad. This pictorial helped me immensely! I realize you left out a few details of prep to get to the fan, belts and stuff but this took me no time to figure out.

Unfortunately my Puller Centre screw was too long and forced me to remove the rad. I was doing the water pump as well so it was necessary to drain the fluid anyways.

It was only a bit difficult to install the new belt so i tried putting the tensioner in place 1st and then installed the idler second. It worked so easy.

Turns out my car didn't need a belt but It needed a water pump. It was just showing signs of seepage from the bearings. 2nd belt was installed at 97k, 8 years ago and still it was in good shape. Motor has 160k now.

Still lots to learn, thanks again.

Cheers

Kevin

Edited March 15, 2016 by kharmata

[sleeper_gtr]

Great thread. Pics are awesome. will try this one weekend as my belt sqeals alot when I crank the motor from cold.

[Ben C34]

Great thread. Pics are awesome. will try this one weekend as my belt sqeals alot when I crank the motor from cold.

That would be the fan belt.

[matt3]

What about the spring on the tensioner does the long part go over or under the stud sticking out of the block

[iruvyouskyrine]

Whatever way makes it provide tension on the belt. I can't remember exactly. You actually don't even need the spring.

[iruvyouskyrine]

[iruvyouskyrine]

FYI

[matt3]

Does it matter which way the tensioner rotates to tighten up on the belt?

[iruvyouskyrine]

Obviously yes? The belt only goes on one way so the tensioner can only apply pressure to the flat side of the belt.

[matt3]

I mean the tensioner it self. I could only rotate it counter clockwise to apply pressure to the belt

[iruvyouskyrine]

That is correct.

[matt3]

Should i leave this timing or ajust to 15? Will it hurt leaving it?

[matt3]

The manual says set it to zero but saw others on 3rd marker or 15btdc

[tridentt150v]

The timing belt has to be timed to the marks behind the pulley cover = just like you did for the pics of the top cam pulleys.  The HB has its own mark for this.

The vehicle has to be started and idling at 650 rpm [so slow] and then using a timing light and slowly spinning your just loose CAS use the above pic and set your ignition timing to the 4th mark = 15' [each gap is 5'].

Once you do this lock your CAS off, rev the motor a couple of times, let it settle, and then recheck at 650rpm. 

 

[matt3]

Thaks for your help [emoji106]

[matt3]

If the crank is out say a tooth or two can i wind it back (counter clockwise) or do i need to do a full 360 clockwise?