Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Turbo Problem


Recommended Posts

hey im bout to buy a gtr r33 and ive been hearing a lot bout the cermaic turbos failing and in result damaging the motor...should i be worried and how hard is it to change the turbos?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey mate alot of people will say different things about turbo failure causing engine damage but i can say 100 percent that on my r32 it happened and it did cause major damage. i have a block with scoring in the last three bores and dents in the piston and head.

if you are a bit mechanical it is somthing you could do at home if you have the time and want to do it. it is a bit involved and does require qiute alot of things to be removed so take your time and label everything or lay it out so it all goes back the same. pics may help.

Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If its a completely stock engine with no aftermarket boost controllers and it hasnt run anymore then 12-13psi then id say its safe but im only going off rb20/25's i honestly dont know about rb26 turbos, from experience ive had an rb20 running 1bar for 3 years without a problem and even sold the turbo too a mate and hes had no problems ither, ive also got an rb25 atm running 1bar and its still going strong after a year, but theres no power to be gained after 14psi, it was a 1kw difference from 14 psi too 18 psi lol, so if your hunting for more power and a peace of mind id change them.

Edited by 51NNA
Link to comment
Share on other sites

more or less a GTR should not have stock turbos on it anymore, they are just too old and the risks are just too high.

you should aim to change your turbos ASAP. however, doing so is one hell of a money pit at the same time.

its much cheaper and easier to own a GTST dollar for dollar a budget build will go a lot further and faster in a GTST

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That guy knows. But at the end of the day, if you want a gtr, you WANT a gtr.

There are people who run standard turbos on 1 bar boost and have done so for a long time. But then you have others who go to crank up the boost and bang, new engine, hello money pit.

It's the same as anything, do you feel lucky? Does the car look in good mechanical condition? Has it been boosted its tits off?

If the car was taken care of through our it's life then you won't have too many problems if you treat her (he if you float that way) right.

Or buy it, change those turbos but expect to pay some cash money to do it. It won't be a cheap endeavor but it will give you peace of mind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32: normal GTR and V-Spec are ceramic (N1 are steel), R33: ceramic, R34: ceramic

Differences

R32's are 270degree journal bearing

R33's are the same but ball bearing

R34's are the same as R33's but a slightly different turbo design (different compressor housing)

R34 N1's are Garrett -7s which use an inconel wheels (mix of nickel and steel which results in a lighter wheel)

R32/R33 N1's/Nismo's are old laggy 80s tech with steel wheels

Link to comment
Share on other sites

R32: normal GTR and V-Spec are ceramic (N1 are steel), R33: ceramic, R34: ceramic Differences R32's are 270degree journal bearing R33's are the same but ball bearing R34's are the same as R33's but a slightly different turbo design (different compressor housing) R34 N1's are Garrett -7s which use an inconel wheels (mix of nickel and steel which results in a lighter wheel) R32/R33 N1's/Nismo's are old laggy 80s tech with steel wheels

Errrrrmmm......NO.

Only R34s are ball bearing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Errrrrmmm......NO.

Only R34s are ball bearing.

Actually you are right my mistake, R33 N1's are 360 degree journal bearing while the R33 stockers are 270 degree.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • People still have Skylines? I thought they're non-existent now. 
    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
×
×
  • Create New...