Car Battery

[bish33]

So last night went to start the gtr and she had a dead battery, as I only drive it on the weekend it spends most of its time in the shed with the alarm slowly draining her.

So my question is wher can I buy a decent battery at a good price south of the city? Battery is located in the boot for those that don't know and its pretty compact too

Thanks in advance jarad

[Sinista32]

Hey Jarad - Maybe try battery world and then stop by supercheap and buy a cheap SCA battery charger.

If you have a garage back it in and connect the charger, put it on trickle. (take the leads off the battery first)

Bazzinga ! - no more problemo

Ps. Battery's dont last long if they discharge fully multiple times.

[Dohmar]

Buy a yellowtop Optima deep cycle battery. They're more expensive than std batteries but they can withstand full discharges and often retain charge longer than a lead acid battery. They're also sealed so they're well suited to boot mounting.

Had mine for 4 years, never skips a beat. Sometimes needs a trickle charge to top up when I do loads of short stop start trips but its worth the cash

-D

[Carbon 34]

Odessy battery

Yellow top

A few other brands but they're hard to find and cost more

Defect to use anything but sealed without proper venting and you will be happy with the above

my old yellow top lasted 11 years and that was in a area it snowed and got to 40+ , shame the markup is so high in oz the new lithuim batteries are beasts , ..... new cars wont be 12v in the very near future (most likely 48v lithium ion)

watch out where you buy battery even a well know shop down south has grey market imported battery NOT covered by any usa or oz warranty

And its one battery on the above list , also note a special charger is needed to charge the above if they go flat , the standard chargers wont cut it, even a high power floor standing model wont ,

if the alarm is draining your battery in a week your siren backup battery is prob 2-3 years old and will eat your car battery even after you change it out , those siren batteries can get funny about the 3 year mark or if the get run flat a few times( car battery goes flat as well) a daily driver car siren lasts 6-10 years , stored cars 1-4 years tops

upgrade your factory charge wires and grounds and terminals when you do the battery to save you doing it twice !! Use full size car audio terminals dont mess with the crappy car parts ones !! Plus they look nice and have covers

Factory size (small)batteries are not up to the job if you run a stereo amp and modded car , the little jap ones are junk , just enough to start the car not much else

If you redo the wires car audio wire exceeds the looks ,performance and much cheaper in kit form them premade wires

Dont use arc welding wire its too stiff and connections are hard for home users to do

My 2 cents

[Luke_ENR34]

Hey Troy, what battery would you recommend for the race car? Need something light weight and basically just to start the car.

Cheers

[DC_GTST]

Not sure which one it is, but either smaller version of the Red/Yellow top Optima/Odyssey. Old-mate has one in his Targa R32 GT-R for that reason - light and small.

[Carbon 34]

Hey luke check out the new lithium ion batteries from usa ,

http://www.braillebattery.com/index.php/batteries/ml7s/#

Just starting battery ? Dont forget 6 coilpacks take a bunch of power and a couple fuel pumps

you want a buffer so you dont trash a motor due to low voltage on the ecu , coilpack, fuel pumps and electric fans if equip'd .. Anything below 12v and enough current available and malfunctions occur , my old commy would start shutting down the ecu at idle when the bass hit (1 amp only) gulping power 90amps at a time with just normal stuff turned on inside the car , it ended up taking a coil pack and alternator out

What I'm saying is even a

Full time racecar needs juice and grounds beyond factory

The battery on the link is the lightest you can buy but you might want a bit bigger version of it

and you still need the cable and connections but the only 4ga needed in a race car is starter and ground on battery to frame and engine alternator bracket

The rest 8 ga is fine

[Carbon 34]

Odessy batteries are all orange unless its military version , some have metal jackets for offroad protection

Red top is starting only , light aftermarket stereo

Yellow top - dual duty start and some ability to deep cycle without damage

Blue top - deep cycle boat or rv battery can be recharged and cycled many times with proper charger

A cheap option is a UPS battery like the big jaycar one but you must have good connections and go for long drives to charge weekly , not light but 100% sealed

When you do a new battery get a chunk of rubber from clark rubber about same size as battery and a chunk for bracket touch points , about 5 mm i think it is

It will save every battery from excessive vibrations that dead short the plates inside and extend the life dramatically

[SLED]

All good info Troy.

I need something better for the bike as it doesn't have compression releases on each cylinder and as a consequence it eats batteries regularly.

Modifying for compression releases costs way too much so I'm thinking that there might be a battery from the link you gave to Luke that may last a little longer....ideas??

[Carbon 34]

Something in lithuim ion pete , it takes a continuus draw pretty well and the weight wont affect the bikes center of gravity so much and nonspill bonus , what compression is the hog ? 12.1 or more ?

Guess a lawnmower pull start might rip your arm off and a kickstart would gut your calf on recoil

Just remember its like a mobile phone or laptop deep cycle it a few times then charge full ,

Deep cycle about once every few months to stop memory from building up in the battery

a charger for these batteries is mandatory to do that properly not a supercheap special

just watch out these come in 12,14,16,18 volt and more

14v isnt better in a 12v charging system and can fry headlight ballasts , all the ecu's , and lcd screen and traces on boards

those are strickly for cars wired to isolate the car from that battery and charger ( big car stereo systems )

and since its battery questions

Batteries in parralel add current capability voltage stays the same ( positive to positive, negative to negative) must use same battery and same age or it can be dangerous , this is 12v still but batteries need isolators to charge on stock alternator without killing it ( battery in boot and one in bonnet area, otherwise you can strap together and charge as one)

In series the voltage goes up , current can drop from resistance ( positive to neg of next battery , ground off the first one to ground, positive of second battery to car) this is 24 v in cars trucks

All kinds of worthless crap in my head lol

[SLED]

Something in lithuim ion pete , it takes a continuus draw pretty well and the weight wont affect the bikes center of gravity so much and nonspill bonus , what compression is the hog ? 12.1 or more ?

Guess a lawnmower pull start might rip your arm off and a kickstart would gut your calf on recoil

Just remember its like a mobile phone or laptop deep cycle it a few times then charge full ,

Hahaha, with over 800cc per cyl at hi-comp, I'd have a peg leg in no time......or a calf the size of Nightcrawler's thighs

Thanks for the info bud, I'll def look into lithuim ion units next time the bike eats a battery

[Matty Sherlock]

Buy a yellowtop Optima deep cycle battery. They're more expensive than std batteries but they can withstand full discharges and often retain charge longer than a lead acid battery. They're also sealed so they're well suited to boot mounting.

Had mine for 4 years, never skips a beat. Sometimes needs a trickle charge to top up when I do loads of short stop start trips but its worth the cash

-D

+1 also a jump back in the boot never goes astray