Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys any help here would be appreciated. I did a search but didnt find what i was after.

What is the going price for a bosch 040 pump and where is the best place to get them from. I was hoping to get it locally if possible. I tried a mate at repco and he said he could get me a 044 at employee price for $460, they dont normally stock the 040 but they said they would ring bosch and see what they could do for me, havent heard from them yet.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39764-fuel-pumps-how-much-and-where/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just picked up a new Bosch 040 for $240. Just wanted to say thanks, if ya guys hadnt informed me i probably would have paid $460 for the 044. I could have got the 044 for $340 from the same guy if i wanted to but i think the 040 will be fine. Cheers.

044 is for external use, the 040 is for in tank use

The 044 will only flow as much as the 040 when mounted in tank, but will flow more when used as a extrenal pump as it was designed to do

best if you are chasing big power (350rwkw) would be to use your stock pump as a feeder for a 044, or better still get a small surge tank setup

From what I have been told, the 040 in tank pump is good for 300rwkw

Going by what I have been led to believe anyway...........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...