Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds like you may need to do a dummy build to check valve piston clearance.

The Tomei pistons will be valve relieved to suit and will be checked at HKS just before being sent over.

He might have a little bit of knowledge but if those inlet ports are polished (which they kind of look like they are) there are deficiencies in how that inlet port will perform... that is the bottom line, it is FACT! Whether he has built 10 engines or 100 means nothing. Plus the fact that this head also has +1.5mm inlet valves is a whole other issue...

I don't think it is right to continue this on Piggaz's thread, apologies mate. Marcus send me a PM or email if you like.

no way post it in here, i think everyone wants to here what you have to say, i sure do, gunna be good to watch you eat your words at the end of it all once its bolted togethor and put on the rollers......

He might have a little bit of knowledge but if those inlet ports are polished (which they kind of look like they are) there are deficiencies in how that inlet port will perform... that is the bottom line, it is FACT! Whether he has built 10 engines or 100 means nothing. Plus the fact that this head also has +1.5mm inlet valves is a whole other issue...

I don't think it is right to continue this on Piggaz's thread, apologies mate. Marcus send me a PM or email if you like.

Pm both of us !!

Polished ports - not ideal, but port shape/size is what really matters

guys back in the 60's experimented with chroming the inlet ports to a true mirror finish, didnt gain anything...but didnt really lose anything either

what I want to know is why is there a blob of what looks like weld attached to the valve guide in the inlet ports, and still using factory cast iron guides? or will they be removed after the porting is finished?

no way post it in here, i think everyone wants to here what you have to say, i sure do, gunna be good to watch you eat your words at the end of it all once its bolted togethor and put on the rollers......

No need to get defensive, anyone can PM me if they like.

I did not say it won't make power, etc... but the port looks polished from the photos. If it is, then in my opinion, it won't flow as well as it could at certain engine speeds. The +1.5mm intake valves might be an issue too, going too big a valve can hurt flow around the valve head at lift "valve shrouding"... the head of the valve can get too close to the cylinder wall.

Polished ports - not ideal, but port shape/size is what really matters

guys back in the 60's experimented with chroming the inlet ports to a true mirror finish, didnt gain anything...but didnt really lose anything either

what I want to know is why is there a blob of what looks like weld attached to the valve guide in the inlet ports, and still using factory cast iron guides? or will they be removed after the porting is finished?

Valve guides are JUN bronze items.

Mike it might just be the way the photo was taken.

I'm picking up the head ,pistons and a few other parts next Friday and will send Paul some pics.

Keep in mind this head was all machined by Naprec to their full racing specs and fitted with their bronze valve guides 1.5 over size forged valves and will spin 9,000rpm all day long.

All the port/polish and other work has been done at HKS by one of their top race engine builders.

This spec head is tried and tested in Japan and no problem with flow.

Sorry if came off as defensive but long flight yesterday and topped off with a nomihodai one could say things are a bit foggy this morning.

Anyway lets keep this on track as its all about Pauls new "Pig Monster"

When you look at the list of high powered engines this guy has developed in the last 15 years in Japan from the Drag33 to time attack engines down to current GTR35, you know he has got a little bit of knowledge of what he's doing, plus he's got the runs on the board having built literally 100's of race engines and high performance cars.

End of the day its the complete package that makes everything come together to give a car that has buckets of torque, great power delivery on low boost and isnt going to go bang.

Also you might want to have a real good look at a few other top Japanese engine builders like Jun etc and see what they do.

Are they doing it or have they done it wrong ??

These guys were pushing the boundries of the RB before most owners here were out of wetting their beds.

Its easy to say yes this is proven and thats proven but how many of you guys have built engines and own cars like these guys in Japan have built and still do.

Have you guys actually been and seen what the Jap top tuners build ???

For example in Australia how many 9 sec cars are there..Japan 10 years ago they were being pumped out left right and centre.

Nowdays hardly any and thats due to economic differences e.g Japan is going down the tube big time so nobody has the coin anymore.

Sadly the RB in Japan today is a dinasaur, alike to the old golden Holden 308 , yes parts are still available and the odd build still happens but this is due to just being for bread and butter money. The focus now and the in future is well and truly the GTR35.

At the end of the day you have to look at what Pauls building here. This is not a knuckledragger engine, its being built for all round high performance and high response so he can take it out to the circuit and go very quick but still enjoy a Sunday drive but have all sorts of anger under the loud pedal.

the rb is becoming a classic BUT what a classic it is :)

& yes the future for me will be the r35 as well - nowadays u can get them in the 90's so as soon as they a bit more, im onto it like a poo on blanket!!!

Off topic posts removed, this is Paul's thread, not advertising for a particular company.

Thanks guys

Thanks for letting me know.

Sorry of a bit O.T but I'm aware of another person with a high powered RB26 built by Racepace here that has had a N1 pump failure. He ended up rebuilding with a Tomei Oil pump. I'm also going to get a Tomei oil pump for my rebuild.

Anyone got any other suggestions of which pump to use?

Please do a search, there's literally dozens of threads on this throughout the forum.

Love the sound of those things :D, a little big for what I want out of the car :(

The goal is to make 450 kw BUT with 400 from 5000 RPM. I wasn't too far off with how it was before it went to heaven.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
×
×
  • Create New...