Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

These results give me a little tingly feeling in my balls thinking what the -5's will be like on my 30/26. Obviously provided it's setup as brilliantly well as yours is.

Hats off to you for your perseverance with it! Now the fun begins (driving it!).

Enjoy!

I think you need a 4wd dyno to do the final power output.

Do you know how much timing your running?? not sure if you know, when running tight squish you dont need the timing and if you put timing in it does not like it and what AFR is the tune to under full load?

I think you need a 4wd dyno to do the final power output.

Do you know how much timing your running?? not sure if you know, when running tight squish you dont need the timing and if you put timing in it does not like it and what AFR is the tune to under full load?

I can't answer that Bobby. I will find out specifics later on as the tune is not finished. it only had 9 runs or so. I dare say the AFR's will be a little richer then what you like ;)

As for 4WD dyno. Wanna spot me a run up on yours? :P

These results give me a little tingly feeling in my balls thinking what the -5's will be like on my 30/26. Obviously provided it's setup as brilliantly well as yours is.

Hats off to you for your perseverance with it! Now the fun begins (driving it!).

Enjoy!

Was lucky enough to take a mates 26/30 for a belt in Melbourne with dash 5's built by rp

300rwkw at 3000rpm

You will love it

These results give me a little tingly feeling in my balls thinking what the -5's will be like on my 30/26. Obviously provided it's setup as brilliantly well as yours is.

Hats off to you for your perseverance with it! Now the fun begins (driving it!).

Enjoy!

A fair bit of thought went into it all. I think the interesting thing is the cam duration. They are not massive lumpy grumpy things!

Having seen a sorted 30 with 5's on the same dyno.... providing it's sorted, you're in for something special ;)

What is the deficit going from rwkw to awkw in your experience Bobby?

300rwkw at 1400rpm less than Paul's is insane!!!

Didn't your mate Deimar do a test at CRD one day and there was 2 KW in it?

that member repetition looks to be a virus - i saw the same thing a few pages back.

sorry paul, ive even tried to edit my post & the site wont accept which is odd.

not sure about diemars experience but i did get some figures from crd when i asked him a while ago.

i'll try again clean up that shitty post of mine

were your cams dialed in?

Zero zero... We only did 9 runs from a totally new ECU and that's what it spat out.

They will have a tickle this week to see what it does. If it takes away from the midrange I don't want it!

Zero zero... We only did 9 runs from a totally new ECU and that's what it spat out.

They will have a tickle this week to see what it does. If it takes away from the midrange I don't want it!

I mean when the motor was build! since the cams are custom, its why i asked if cams have been dialed in to find zero? if not, i think its a good idea to know where the cams should be before playing with them

I mean when the motor was build! since the cams are custom, its why i asked if cams have been dialed in to find zero? if not, i think its a good idea to know where the cams should be before playing with them

We know where they are at zero zero. Yavuz set the loves up where he thinks they should be.... Not to say a degree here or there might make the difference.

Lets see what next week brings ;)

Geeeez looks like that port work on the head is doing the trick...

Who would have thought HKS knew what they were doing :/

But did they? its had the super special cams and springs changed in....

Edit: of course they know, but is it better than something that could of been done locally, as yavuz deemed it necessary to make these changes

Edited by jangles

Its hard to quantify any gains from port work without doing back to back tests. You really need to do a stock head with all the same bolt ons. Then try a worked head with all the same bits and compare results. However, not many people actually have the time or money to try that exactly.

Everyone gets tempted by changes when they have the engine apart lol.

Its hard to quantify any gains from port work without doing back to back tests. You really need to do a stock head with all the same bolt ons. Then try a worked head with all the same bits and compare results. However, not many people actually have the time or money to try that exactly.

Everyone gets tempted by changes when they have the engine apart lol.

Well nothing changed apart from the head, cams and an extra 0.5mm on the pistons. ECU did but meh

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all! Looking to relocate the battery to the trunk of an R34 GTT. I want to do it using as many stock GTR components as I can (including the harness protectors from the 34 GTR that run underneath along the chassis to the engine bay). So far I’ve purchased the battery tray from a 33 GTR, as the captive weld nuts are already there just asking to be used. There is also the slight issue of now having to relocate the ABS/TC/Fuel Pump Control ECU, which in GTT’s sits right above where the battery will then sit on the tray. Has anyone already achieved this, and if you have any pics that you wouldn’t mind sharing? It would be great to see how others have done it and where you put them, as there are countless holes in the parcel shelf panel to potentially use. Just trying to get some ideas bounced around, and to help uncover any potential problems I may encounter by  my choice of location. TIA for any help!
    • Brand was ard.   I also threw a brand new battery at it and beefed up the wire from the alternator to battery and added an extra earthing point from the battery 
    • Evening all,       I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.       Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc       Coil cover   Cam covers   Plazamaman fuel rail   Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome   Or any lists anywhere
    • Evening all,   I'm replacing some bolts on my RB25 with probolt Australia bolts.   Does anyone know the following, m5 m6 etc 10mm 20mm etc   Coil cover Cam covers Plazamaman fuel rail Front cover (timing cover)   Etc   Any help would be awesome Or any lists anywhere
    • $350 for a skid pan is a joke, cost of living is definitely more in NSW 😂
×
×
  • Create New...