Jump to content
SAU Community

Piglet's Rebuild Of His Busted Tomei 2.8


Recommended Posts

Mid 9. No farken way. It too heavy... I reckon a mid 10 with my rookie piloting skills....

Time for diet.....carbon doors, boot, lexan windows, rip interior out and go on Jenny Craig diet Paul :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock R33 GTR weight is around 1550KG. Add driver, fuel etc and that will be at around 1700kg. This would equate to mid 10's @130+ MPH going by the calcs. However, I personally think that it will go faster and well into the 130's TS if Paul can get it to launch.

Guess there is only one way to find out, Paul ;)

Time to go practice your GTR launches :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock R33 GTR weight is around 1550KG. Add driver, fuel etc and that will be at around 1700kg. This would equate to mid 10's @130+ MPH going by the calcs. However, I personally think that it will go faster and well into the 130's TS if Paul can get it to launch.

Guess there is only one way to find out, Paul ;)

Time to go practice your GTR launches :D

Look IMO mid 10's is ridiculously fast for a road car and I would be thrilled with those numbers.

Anything faster than that will create more stress on drive shafts, gearbox, engine longevity (maybe)....in other words, shit will start to break.

Something I would want to avoid and no doubt Paul would too.

Edited by Ants
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It WILL be well into the high 130mph and low 10's

If my RWD boat could do a 11.080 @134 mph a 4WD with the power that his has will love that shit.

How many runs till he gets booted for doing 10's is the real $64,000 question.

I will bet a coffee on the third run, 1st will be a nice easy take off and shake out, 2nd will be with a bit of boost backing off at half track, 3rd will be BAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSHBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATSBAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Tell me when its on and I will be there with bells on, I will even bring the Ford and race them for coffee and/or donuts.

Disclaimer: In a 150ishkw taxi I will only race for reaction time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul whats going on ?? Your knuckles starting to drag along the ground ?? :mrt: :mrt:

Jeez if you wanted to go dragging I could have got you the 1500HP drag head made up , same specs as the HKS Drag 33 before cams etc.

Harmless plug !!

"If anyone wants one of these heads like Paul or I have send me pm as old mate has quit HKS and is now doing freelance custom engine builds in Japan.

With current exchange rates and ability to pay for everything direct in Japan, now is very affordable time to get something very special made..."

Paul I can delete this if you want just let me know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But how will a 1500hp car go doing cruises, hill climbs, circuit days, TEXI and such.<br /><br />Pauls car should/will be a excellent all-rounder.<br /><br />And unlike the other 95% of big power Skylines out there I dare say it will be used in anger on the black stuff, and I don't mean boosting on the public roads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Look IMO mid 10's is ridiculously fast for a road car and I would be thrilled with those numbers.

Anything faster than that will create more stress on drive shafts, gearbox, engine longevity (maybe)....in other words, shit will start to break.

Something I would want to avoid and no doubt Paul would too.

I agree with u 100% with regards to longevity. I had a friend build a JUN rb26 and that required a routine pulldown and rebuild every 5000km...that is nuts (belted out 650kw)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But how will a 1500hp car go doing cruises, hill climbs, circuit days, TEXI and such.<br /><br />Pauls car should/will be a excellent all-rounder.<br /><br />And unlike the other 95% of big power Skylines out there I dare say it will be used in anger on the black stuff, and I don't mean boosting on the public roads.

Thats my point !!

I got the head done for Paul in Japan specifically for the power and response he wanted , then throw in yavuz's bit of magic , when he gets it to the track thats where the animal will perform.

1500hp head is pure drag head only.

There's a spec 2 version of Pauls head which can be built but is purely for track car as would be a pig in traffic as a daily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Paul whats going on ?? Your knuckles starting to drag along the ground ?? :mrt: :mrt:

Jeez if you wanted to go dragging I could have got you the 1500HP drag head made up , same specs as the HKS Drag 33 before cams etc.

Harmless plug !!

"If anyone wants one of these heads like Paul or I have send me pm as old mate has quit HKS and is now doing freelance custom engine builds in Japan.

With current exchange rates and ability to pay for everything direct in Japan, now is very affordable time to get something very special made..."

Paul I can delete this if you want just let me know.

Haha. Nah Marcus, it's all good :D

What rear diff are you going to run? A queef one like the front one? :)

I was looking at the Quiafe rear (which has JUST been released for GTR's only in the last 2-3 months) but I decided to go the Nismo GT PRO. Thanks Marcus ;)

Thats my point !!

I got the head done for Paul in Japan specifically for the power and response he wanted , then throw in yavuz's bit of magic and when he gets it to the track thats where the animal will perform.

1500hp head is pure drag head only.

There's a spec 2 version of Pauls head which ican be built but is purely for track car as would be a pig in traffic as a daily.

Is that the one with both the intake and exhaust squish pads removed? I wonder what it would have been like if we left both pads in?!?!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with u 100% with regards to longevity. I had a friend build a JUN rb26 and that required a routine pulldown and rebuild every 5000km...that is nuts (belted out 650kw)

True, but there must be other factors in engine longevity than JUST power alone. Tune is obvious, but I make peak power at 6500. That just means I don't need to rev the guts out of it. Thats lower than the factory peak power of 6800 RPM!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, but there must be other factors in engine longevity than JUST power alone. Tune is obvious, but I make peak power at 6500. That just means I don't need to rev the guts out of it. Thats lower than the factory peak power of 6800 RPM!

Agree.

However when your at the track 7-8k rpm is going to be really tempting.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Agree.

However when your at the track 7-8k rpm is going to be really tempting.

Not with so much area under the curve. I found that at Winton just after I went from GT RS's to -5's. 6-6500 RPM and grab the next gear.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not with so much area under the curve. I found that at Winton just after I went from GT RS's to -5's. 6-6500 RPM and grab the next gear.

Have you got a graph with the torque curve?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness update time have had great fun and learnt so much already so far with this project. I started off making both the ignition and injector sub harnesses in the hope any mistakes i made here aren't as hard to undo and learn from as the main harness.  A cool comparison of the old harness using presumably TXL wire and the new which is using Tezel. Also opted to use DTM plugs to keep the whole setup as neat and tidy as possible and tucked the wiring under the coil bracket to try and keep it all from sticking out too much. Although the injector harness, I'm not overly happy with as I'm still using the rubber boots that are supplied with the type of plugs it just looks ugly and sticks out like a sore thumb with the white identifiers so a slight redesign may be done.   Then it was main harness time and most importantly trying to route it nice and away from the heat it will use the OEM heater hose routing which is no longer present to keep the harness up high and secure. it's amazing how much smaller this harness is able to be compared to the old one. plugged everything into the emtron and with the help of the tuner again attempted to start it up and instantly fired up and running smoothly on all 6 which was a big shock to myself. So still some routing and adjusting to be done for the final fit up and installing a knock sensor harness plug which is in the post all has gone surprisingly well.     The old harness for shits and giggles.
    • They do that at random every now and then, with almost no detectable cause. Mine has done it a couple of times (over 25 years!!). Never worked out why.
    • I don't post on here and have been lurking for some time now. Many of the topics have helped me out more times than i can count. I was racing yesterday (11/9) and blew a front right CV shaft. I have spares so I popped a new one in. A thread i read previously said to check the engine mounts if you blow a front CV. Upon inspection, the front right mount was completely separated from the upper plate. This discovery saved me time and money, because i would have blown another CV if i went back out. Just wanted to thank you guys and wish everyone luck with with their builds. (Now if we could only come up with a solution for my power steering belt flying off after hitting the rev limiter, lol)
    • Either way he still need those style of spacer to go into the manifold because the photo he currently has is not going to work 
    • You can just get the injector bosses, which allows top feeds to fit. He can use the same injectors without issue, like these (another option): https://rocketindustries.com.au/af59-2210-rb25-fuel-injector-inserts     The Racework ones look a bit better: https://www.nzefi.com/product/raceworks-lower-injector-mounting-boss-kit-for-r33-rb25det-s14-s15-sr20det/   You could also just get a similar kit like the Radium one by Plazmaman: https://plazmaman.com/product/nissan-rb25det-r33-billet-fuel-rail/?srsltid=AfmBOoogfYq49X0fu2Wdbf8yOf6zt9egyPAif_gn3Qr3G8hzAphhTgOkO70  
×
×
  • Create New...