Jump to content
SAU Community

Wastges: Tial 38Mm Mvs Vs Turbosmat 45Mm Hypergate

stocker

By stocker,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
Posted (edited)

looking for some feed back/opinions on these wastegates................as ive always run the old school garrett 32mm and 42mm gates............never used tial or turbosmart gates before........i have 2 38mm mvs gates and 2 45mm hypergates

any info be a real help

Edited by stocker
stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

im not interested in sizes i know how gate work the smalller the gate the less gas it let 'sso theres more gas to spin the turbine ie high boost and big gate let out more gas for less turbine speed ie low boost ...........im more interested how they perform,hold boost,longevity of the gate in question,issues with the two brands etc

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Both are very high quality gates. I havent ha a gate "wear out" only the cheap evay gates are a little dodgy as the valves dont seat 100% and theres too much play in the valve guide

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Not sure bout turbosmart but the Tial allows coolant to run thru the top, does anyone run coolant thru or not worth it?

Ive been told all the Tials are just cheaply made in china? is this right or are they made in US?

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was planning on running the coolant if i end up using the tials

hi you find the real tials are us made but there are a whole heap of china tial knock off getting about.................before you buy a tial gate get the s/n and email it ti tial they tell you if its legit or not ...............but funny thing is turbosmart are made in china or what ever,yrs ago turbosmart use to have a hughe yearly sale of 2nds at wetherill park..........but there moved there manufacturing plants o/s

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i was planning on running the coolant if i end up using the tials

hi you find the real tials are us made but there are a whole heap of china tial knock off getting about.................before you buy a tial gate get the s/n and email it ti tial they tell you if its legit or not ...............but funny thing is turbosmart are made in china or what ever,yrs ago turbosmart use to have a hughe yearly sale of 2nds at wetherill park..........but there moved there manufacturing plants o/s

wtf happened there?

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

lol, well personally i think the Tial looks the goods, i have a 44mm Tial and its a large unit, looks pretty hardcore compared to turbo smart. I havnt seen it work yet though and a newbee with this :whistling:

femno Grand Master

femno

Posted
Posted

Yep, we have a Tial 38mm running straight off a turbo housing in a low mount application...which would get mega hot compared to having it off the manifold at the collector. It runs the coolant through it and the boost curve is straighter than a ruler.

Under racing conditions where everything gets super hot and the metals and welding are under most strain, the coolant helps lower temps down and prolong the life of the wastegate. The diaphram's life will be extended, as rubber perishes from heat over time.

I prefer TIAL gates as weve had ONE genuine TS gate jam. Theyre both good designs and nice and compact. The feature of the coolant cooling is favourable if youre racing it, but whether you have room for the lines (assuming twin scroll since youre using 2) or not is another thing to consider.

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i got a 2jzgte aristo champ i would run them off the top water neck i would just get some alloy weld on 3/8th bungs to feed the gates the cool coolant and feed them back in to the alloy radiator to cool the colant exiting the gates opinions ?

stocker Enthusiast

stocker

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

i got some hks 2jzgte twin turbo manifolds with t3 flanges welded to them works out good for my twin td06's........is that a bad idea to feed the hot coolant out of the gates into the turbo'sor vise versa blake...............ive hidden the fusebox in the clovebox etc,deleted alot of stuff..........blake is going to be welding me in a custom tunnel

Edited by stocker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Desean Strickland
      Need help/advice with bearing taper clearance, eccentricity and arp studs.

      By Desean Strickland · Posted

      Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
    • soviet_merlin
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Well, do ya, punk? Seriously though, let's fu<king go! The colour and kit looks amazing on the car. Do you have any shots from the rear? I don't quite follow how the model came around. You bought the white kit and he modified it to match your car? Looks nuts either way!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?
    • GTSBoy
      How "plug and play" is the Haltech Pro for R33 GTST

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, while being... strictly unnecessary. Tuning is a bit like quantum physics. You don't need to understand what Schroedinger's equation actually means. You just need to run the computation and accept the answers. With tuning, you just push page up/down until the exhaust tells you that you've got the fuel right. The VE can stay hidden behind the curtain like the Wizard of Oz and you'll never need to know what he looked like.
×
×
  • Create New...