Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey folks

just been looking at pics on the net of r32 gtr engine bays and first thing i noticed was that my GTR is missing the ABS unit although the brakes still work.

Ive only recently picked this GTR up and had it registered, but still needs some work untill im happy with it.

Is there a reason the ABS unit may of been taken off ? for drifting or somthing ? Or has more then likely the unit just failed so they just ripped the whole ABS unit off ?

its a 1994 r32 gtr.

I did originally wonder why there was only 2 metal brake lines running accross the firewall but didnt take no other notice of it.. now ive relised why theres only 2 there...

the car is only going to be driven on the weekends so idearly i want an ABS unit put back on there, unless they are prone to failing quickly ?

any advice is appreciated

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397713-no-abs-unit-on-my-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

yes its a 1994 model - written on the build plate, reg papers.. even nissan fast says its a 1994 model when punching in the VIN

So there would really be no other reason to the removal of the ABS unit unless it fails and the owner cannot be bothered replacing the unit.. ?

is there much work in reinstalling the ABS unit ?

Edited by r32gtrv-spec

After 20 odd years many 32 ABSs are leaking. New ones are $1500. I've not heard of any confirmed cases of successful rebuilds. Since ABS is safety equipment its illegal to remove it.

Re: "If you know how to drive, you shouldn't need ABS". On the street where there are different surfaces and conditions, you wont know where the braking limit is. ABS is good.

it may be illegal to remove the ABS unit although it was never picked up on 2 Roadworthy certificates or when it was complied when it was imported...

Ill look into getting a brand new ABS unit soon - but im going to need all the metal hosing that goes with it

it may be illegal to remove the ABS unit although it was never picked up on 2 Roadworthy certificates or when it was complied when it was imported...

Ill look into getting a brand new ABS unit soon - but im going to need all the metal hosing that goes with it

Yeah no-ones likely to ever know about the abs removal. I got my new abs from rhdjapan.com

correct...so the question is...does your car have a rear wiper?

I think it was most likely changed as it was leaking as Adam said

BTW I think it is optimistic at best to suggest no ABS is better for street (or even rally use). Maybe for an experienced driver on a race track, but that is about the only time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...