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Yup, and the R33 GTS-t / R34 GT-t as well. I've just done the fronts.

Just need some spacers for the bolts to go from M12 to M14 from memory. They slip over the bolts so the calipers don't move around. The R34 brakes are M14 so you don't need to do spacers. You'll have to cut off the stone shield on the back, because it wont fit the rotor, and also shave a little alloy off the outter of the hub to stop the disk rubbing.

R32 GTR are 32mm wide, R33 GTS-t are 30 mm, while the R34 GT-t is a little bigger in the diameter I believe- 310mm or something rather than 296mm

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Buy my Brembos and stoptec slotted rotors and stoptech performance pads in 7-8 weeks once i get my 6/4 BBK :)

will the test pipes be ready at the same time?? lol

brembos would be nice but im trying to find a more affordable alternative

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will the test pipes be ready at the same time?? lol

brembos would be nice but im trying to find a more affordable alternative

Get Akebonos, a full set fronts and rears with Stoptech rotor, SS line and Motul fluids for under $2k USD. Awesome deal I reckon, I just wish I have an extra $2k lying around...

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That Akebono kit requires for you to have min. 19" rims as the fronts are 355mm and rears are 350mm.

I have just fitted a set of Endless 6 piston kit to the front of mine, and the 324mm rotors fill up my 18" rims quite well. :)

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will the test pipes be ready at the same time?? lol

brembos would be nice but im trying to find a more affordable alternative

Fair enough. As for parts, see below.. Cant believe its been exactly 9 months and 9 days in waiting for my $3000+ FI parts... Imagine that, a turbo kit sat in your room lookin at you for 9 months and you hoped each month was the month the internal engine parts would be sent. I will actually be surprised if they leave this week. As i said before, anytime you want the $ for test pipes its yours lol.. I would like to actually send you the pipes thou :)

>-- Original Message --

>Subject: Re: parts nathan

>From: Z1 Performance <[email protected]>

>Date: Mon, 16 Apr 2012 19:44:12 -0400

>To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>

>

>

>Everything is now set on this end to ship this week

>

>

>Z1 Performance

>www.z1auto.com

>Cornerbalance.wordpress.com

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no issues with rim diameter here as im wearing 20's.... offset/rear of spoke could be the clearance issue tho.

spending more than 500 on a set of brakes for a road car is pointless in my opinion...

I think id be happy with a set of R32 gtr discs and calipers. itd only cost me $400 all up.

Edited by Deep Dish V35
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Same diameter, however thickness is the major difference- 24mm compared to 32mm. Then compare single piston slide caliper to 4 pot sumitomo. I haven't compared pad size, but its not that important. Trust me- its an upgrade! Std ones are woeful.

Sure Brembos are better, but also 2 or 3 times the price.

If your not tracking your car, frankly I don't see the point in these massive brakes (unless visual/show off is your thing...) Brembos would be as much as I would go.

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If your not tracking your car, frankly I don't see the point in these massive brakes (unless visual/show off is your thing...) Brembos would be as much as I would go.

I scored big time, the Endless setup only cost me my factory single piston setup and some fresh fluid. :whistling:

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Sounds like a great deal. 2 piece rotors? decent width to them? Pads OK? It can be a bit of a shock when you look at these BBKs and the routine costs skyrocket compared to running more common brakes.

Got it tuned yet? iamhe77 said your sticking with the stock injectors!?

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At the moment yes, would like to fit my 380RS diff centre first then get it strapped down to see what if got.

Don't think that I will get numbers like yours though, the CVT absorbs alot, just the simple induction mods in NA trim were only just noticeable, more noise than anything.

I am impressed with the route you took for your tune, will see how the IS copes.

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The Auto takes heaps away too. The best thing about my tune is that I have a diagnostics option as well, and I have a laptop at home that I can tweak anything any time I want. For example, I was running too lean on cruise, so out with the lappy, and tuned it to suit. Cheap too- 700 US and your good as gold- anyone can tune it. Planing to up it to about 6psi, and add a couple of things, and take out a couple of things in the tune- see if I can get some more power out to keep the FI 350zs in check. Should still be safe I think.

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Don't worry Alex, he'll have access to my Cipher cable in a week or two... but methinks he wants to have the display from the iS on his pop up screen.

http://www.hks-power.co.jp/en/products/electronics/computer/f-con/is/index.html

All connectors were supplied about a year ago :ninja: so now it's just a case of installing all the HKS electronic gear and tuning. Should be fun :)

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Its good to see you series two M35 guys know where to post. lol. :P

Alex, if the auto takes heaps away what's mine really putting out? I would think a modern auto would be nearly as efficient as a manual.

On topic, go for the 34 gtr callipers if you can as the bolt size is the same. If you want to go the cheaper 32 gtr option I can make you the spacers you need for the 12mm bolts if you want.

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Nuffin like hijacking someone elses thread...

Scott, the only ultimate way to tell would be to run up two identical cars one AT one Man, but you know that. What my experience has told me is that I can't explain why a manual 350z with HKS kit and 5psi (stock gate spring) can put down 240kw rear wheels, and mine with stock gate spring (which turned out to be 4psi) put down 185kw rear wheels. Dyno, ramp rate, gears etc etc all make a difference as we have discussed, but that much difference? Or is one tuner magically 50kw better off?

Its known that manual 350zs put out about 160-170 at the wheels, while AT cars 130-140 maybe a bit higher stock for stock.

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