Jump to content
SAU Community

Dr30 Water Temp Reading

DeRuX
 Share

Recommended Posts

DeRuX Rookie

DeRuX

Posted
Posted

Ok so my first post..

I just got my DR30 out from winter storage and this is the first time I have been able to drive it a lot. I don't know where the water temp gauge shoud be reading and wanted to compare with other people. So my gauge after driving around all day reads at about 3/4 to the top. It this normal???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397921-dr30-water-temp-reading/
Share on other sites
DeRuX Rookie

DeRuX

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Looks like mine is a bit hot then. I am going to do a radiator flush and see where I'm at then. It the temp sensors for the fan are getting old will that make them turn on at a higher temperature?? Does anyone know where to get new ones that don't cost an arm or leg?

Shoud the top sensor power the big or little fan?

Edited by DeRuX
Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted (edited)

Mine sits just under half as well.

Looks like mine is a bit hot then. I am going to do a radiator flush and see where I'm at then. It the temp sensors for the fan are getting old will that make them turn on at a higher temperature?? Does anyone know where to get new ones that don't cost an arm or leg?

Shoud the top sensor power the big or little fan?

IIRC, the top sensor is for the "low water" light on the dash. The fans run off the sensor in the bottom tank. My sensor failed at one point, and I got a Tridon replacement from AutoPro. It cost about $16 at the time (which was a few years ago now).

http://www.tridon.co...35&G=483&P=2014

Edit: replace your thermostat as well. Just to be sure.

Edited by Matty T
coupe72001 Mentor

coupe72001

Posted
Posted

You can get a watchdog if you are really worried. A mate's running one his on his old Range Rover because data taken from the gauges on it is pretty much meaningless at this stage.

http://www.sig.itel.net/

It'll alarm if your water temp reaches your set-point too.

DeRuX Rookie

DeRuX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine sits just under half as well.

IIRC, the top sensor is for the "low water" light on the dash. The fans run off the sensor in the bottom tank. My sensor failed at one point, and I got a Tridon replacement from AutoPro. It cost about $16 at the time (which was a few years ago now).

http://www.tridon.co...35&G=483&P=2014

Edit: replace your thermostat as well. Just to be sure.

So the fans run from the bottom switch. I have them working off the top switch. I guess I need rewire some stuff.

Matty T Collaborator

Matty T

Posted
Posted

Yeah, you want the fans to run off the post-cooled (ie. bottom tank) water temp. The aim is to keep the water entering the engine at a consistent temperature. Running the fans off the pre-cooled water temp does not take into account the thermal efficiency of the radiator.

To take it a step further, the thermo switch should be mated to the thermostat being used. That way, the water flows (cools) when it reaches a certain minimum temp, and the cooling is boosted when it reaches a maximum temp.

If I remember correctly, I am using an 82 degree thermostat, and a 90/85 degree thermo switch (with a manual dash-mounted override switch). This is in my DR30 rally car, which uses the factory radiator. In 26 events, it has never had an overheating issue. Actually, I lie. It did once, and that was when the thermo switch failed. Hence the Tridon replacement. Fortunately I caught it in time and saved the engine.

DeRuX Rookie

DeRuX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I have emailed Tridon about buying a set of switches. They do not sell outside of Australia & New Zealand. They also do not sell direct. So can some one help a guy out. I would like to buy two Tridon TFS143 switches. PM me and we can set it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Just checked in first post and you should be able to bring it home November this year, right? I'm amazed you made it through four years of this. As hard as it feels now the rest will go by in a breeze in hindsight, I'm sure.
    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      Realized I haven't been back here in a while. Still here, still alive, still waiting for the car.  I went back again the only time last year from Oct-Nov for R's Meeting and drove it around some more, including a few laps on Fuji Speedway(in the wet, sadly). The car still feels good, but have a couple small things to address. I've been getting more parts but have slowed down still, and most of the bigger purchases are now out of the way. I find myself getting impatient more and more when it comes to getting started on this project; it's quite hard for me not being able to really dive in and start making this car my own because it's halfway across the world. At times it doesn't even really feel like I own one of these. Haven't really been motivated or had the desire to document the last trip on here or social media for, well, reasons... but here's some pics...it's also still alive and well as you can see: I've narrowed down to the last large part purchases(anything over $2k) before the engine build to be: 1) Ohlins Road & Tracks 2) ATS Twin Carbon clutch 3) Endless BBK with some custom options and 4) Kansai Service carbon driveshaft I don't think the budget exists for all of these this year, but I'll try for one or two items I think. Though, every time I look at my spreadsheet I sigh, shake my head, and get depressed just that little bit more.  'til later.
    • Shoota_77
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      It's a stunning location!  I've been to NZ twice but haven't made it to the North Island yet.  Definitely on the cards but the South Island is hard to tear yourself away from too... Looking forward to see what you can wring out of it once you can get it to hold together!  Be awesome to get a low 11 or even sneaking into the high 10's pass out of it.  That's a bloody quick car that most people will never experience in their life.  Enjoy!
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Nominally yes but I’m not really at that stage yet. Outsourcing to Japan is also a relatively good deal at the moment because their currency has devalued much more against the USD.  You would assume this but a lot has changed from the pandemic. Mechanics are in short supply and demand for fixing old cars has gone up from the cost of new cars. 250-300 USD/hr is not an unusual shop labor rate in California and you’re paying that regardless of whether the guy is competent or not. Coworkers have been quoted 3000 USD for a water pump and thermostat at a dealer on an N54. Oil changes went from ~75 USD to 150 on fairly normal cars like Civics. The cost of the oil and filter hasn’t even kept up with inflation.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The downside to that is that the cost of everything, particularly labour, is significantly higher here than it is over there in the Disunited States of Slavery. You can hire 3 tradesmen over there for just the Ranger Raptor allowance of a single 3rd year apprentice over here.
×
×
  • Create New...