Jump to content
SAU Community

100K Service...now I Have A Strange Sound... Please Help

rofocale

By rofocale,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

rofocale Contributor

rofocale

Posted
Posted

Hi Folks,

Over the weekend, Dad and I did the 100K service on my R33 GTR. This entailed replacing the water pump (with a N1 pump), the seals on the cams, the idler and tensioner bearings and timing belt.(We didn't do the crank seal as I have an upgraded oil pump to put on before long.) The work went well, with much patience and the engine manual at hand.

The car started up well and sounds just right...for about 2 minutes, then a what I can only describe as a whiring sound starts and continues. We have really only let the car idle until we are completely happy with all our work. Other than this sound, the car is running well. This behaviour is also repeatable. When we stop the car and restart it, it runs well for about another 2 minutes and then the whiring sound starts up again.

We haven't taken the cam and timing belt covers off yet, which is our next step this coming weekend. We had a little peek in the top of the cam cover and at first glance the timing belt looks okay(just a that spot, we didn't spin it round).

We used nissan OEM parts for the idler, tensioner, cam seals and water pump and the timing belt is a gates racing belt.

What I'm wondering is if anyone can offer any advice as to what might be causing this. My personal ideas are either the tension on the timing belt is not right, or that either the tensioner or idler bearing is not good. Can anyone offer any advice as to what this might be, or alternatively what it is not?

Thanks in advance,

murray

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

The gates racing belts are pretty well known to be louder then the standard/some other timing belts. I have a Dayco timing belt and it hasnt made a noise since I put it in, but i know alot of people with the gates belts experience the whirring noise

I dont think its a serious issue, just a bit of noise, and after the belt wears in a bit it goes away

From what I know about it anyway, its fairly well documented on this site, just search timing belt noise or gates timing belt, something along those lines

rofocale Contributor

rofocale

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks to everybody for their advice - I really appreciate it.

After hearing your responses, Dad and I took the front covers off again and went through the tensioning procedure again and gave the new tensioner and idler an inspection. Everything looked good. With it all in place I gave the crank several rotations, watching the timing belt for lateral travel or anything unusual. Everything looked good so we put it all back together and started the car up. This time the noise was much less. Again it seemed to 'start up' after a minute or two after starting the engine, but the noise was nothing like as loud - it was down to a similar volume as many other regular sounds in the engine area, if it a little less. So considering the advice and experiences of everybody we just kept it idling for a while and then decided to go for a drive as the noise sounded just so much less of problem than after our initial turn on. The volume of the noise when I started this post/topic was really much louder than anything else in the engine area and sounded as something was pretty wrong. Now you would almost just say, that the noise is just how the engine sounds.

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...