Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PWR

For around $500 you can buy the larger 19 or 21 row coolers, lines, fittings and sandwich plate. We have tried Setrab, Greddy, HKS, JustJap and they all do 'ok' but the PWR one was the one that reduced oil temps the most. We see around 20-25 degree drops which is also equal to about 4-5 degree coolant temp drops on the track

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You can (or at least I do) walk straight in their front doors and buy them also.

Mention my name and I get more discount :P

You can buy the sandwich plate from Performance Wholesale or even places like Autobarn/Repco with or without sensor holes. You get the PWR cooler with -8 lines fitted and you can use -8 hose to the fittings that will come with the sandwich plate OR you can go -10 lines but you will need to get 2 x 3/8 NPT > -10 male adaptors and 90 deg -10 fittings to come off the sandwich plate.

So all up usually:

PWR Cooler: $220-$250 (depending on size)

Sandwich plate: $65-$85

Lines: 3 or 4m @ $30-$40/m

Fittings: ~ $50-60

Apparently they tested the Setrab ones beside these and the PWR ones outperform them. We have seen the same

Do they have a Thermostat in the PWR ones tho?

I need a themostat

Just run an in-line thermostat? Earls make them, as do a few others. No big deal, will require a few more fittings but that's money you will have saved by not buying a kit with an inbuilt thermostat anyway.

purchased the driftworks ultimate relocation kit bout a month ago mate and just had my first track day on the weekend, dont think i saw oil temps higher than 85 and it was probably neally 30 degrees out on track

I was extremely suprised at the quality of the kit but at around 700 delivered its not cheap either, the basic kit is the same as the one i got but without the oil filter relocater...but yea i'd def recommend the driftworks kit, they use a MIH core and sandwich plate and speedflow fittings/braided line so all in all its good bang for buck

Midnight mods is another who can make full kits to suit RBs and use a in line thermostat, which can also be bought seperatly http://www.midnightmods.com.au/zen-cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=67&products_id=214&zenid=d3becc4efb2785a89553b5c8bf88433e

I have used a greddy thermostat sandwich plate a number of times now. They're cheap and are well built. Then just make up your own lines and fittings (use pushlock hose and fittings for best value for money). As for a cooler, I preffer mocal or pwr. Most kits will need the hoses 'adjusted' for length anyway.

What ever way you go make shure you have a thermostat in there somewhere. Also an inline thermostat will require 2x the amount of hose fittings to be purchased...

DONT USE A SECOND HAND CORE!!!

Cheers

Justin

What ever way you go make shure you have a thermostat in there somewhere. Also an inline thermostat will require 2x the amount of hose fittings to be purchased...

If you purchase a Mocal inline thermostat then they use male fittings on each end, so you only require an additional 4 straight hose ends which isn't too big a deal, would cost about 60 bucks. A lot of the other inline thermostats I've seen have got female threads so you need to buy 4 female-male adapters in addition to the 4 straight hose ends. Again not too big a deal, but would cost about 100 bucks compared to 60 bucks, and you've then got more fittings that can potentially leak.

Considering you're most likely going to pay ~$200 for a new Greddy thermostatic sandwich plate compared to around $150 for an inline thermostat + fittings (depending on brand), I still think you'll be a bit better off financially by going with an inline thermostat over the Greddy option.

Well why would you not run one? For the sake of $150-$200 it's worth it for me. I may not live in an area that has consistent sub-zero temperatures, but we still see sub-10 degrees in winter here, and on occasion we get below zero if you are getting up at 5am like myself. Not sure about you guys, but my neighbours don't appreciate me idling my car at the best of times, let alone 5am.

More things to go wrong

if you dont want to idle it, the drive it soft for a few mins which you should do anyway

I do putt around until everything is up to operating temp, takes a good 10 minutes though. I just assumed that having an oil cooler without a thermostat would make it take a lot longer. Not that I am dying to thrash my car as soon as possible, really I hardly boost around on the street as it is. But the quicker things can warm up to their correct operating temperature the better?

Out of interest, what size oil cooler are/were you using? Would that make a lot of difference to whether you are under/over cooling?

I find it almost impossible to get the oil to 80 degrees in a oil cooler without a thermostat in mine 30-40min driving in average weather like 25 and I could not get oil temp over 65-70 so I would think for a street car you would really need one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Solid update, got all the downforces now.  You going to be running aus time attack again? love the jacking solution, spend the dollars on what makes it go fast is best way.
    • Back in January, I noticed my car felt noticeably weak. I had the injectors cleaned, which seemed to solve the problem -- until now. Recently, the car suddenly lost power again while driving. Suspecting the injectors, I brought it to the mechanic. He recommended replacing them entirely, saying the current ones were getting unreliable and fiddly to work with. I could not find a direct replacement for my current injectors. The closest match I found were 440cc injectors. This led me to look into the possibility of upgrading -- and of course, that would mean remapping the ECU. From my research I found: The OEM Part numbers are 16600-72L20 and 16600-72L21 Both the RB20DE and RB20DET use the same 270cc injectors. There are much better options out there over the old OEM injectors. Nistune could be a viable tuning option. While the RB20DE isn’t explicitly listed on their site, the ECU is essentially the same as the GTS-T version - just with a different map. The ECU code on mine is listed as supported. One concern is finding a tuner who works with Nistune. Aftermarket ECU like Haltech and Link, but this would be the most expensive choice (and possibly overkill for a mostly stock RB20DE) I admit that I am very new to the tuning scene and would appreciate any insight or recommendations regarding this.   These are some SAU links where I got some of my information from for reference: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380324-rb20de-injectors/ https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/477396-factory-270cc-injectors/  
    • The inspectors are not forensic by any means but if you forge your documents and/or badgings on vehicle parts and are found out, the consequences are just far bigger than if you just run illegal parts. And their job quite literally is to cross reference what parts you got installed and what your papers say you got. Something as silly as your suspension being 1mm too low will fail you. Nonetheless I asked if someone knew the damn pipe and I certainly did not ask for smartassery or underhanded comments, no idea why you need to be told this. Great way to waste both our time.
    • As useful as you explaining what forgery is... But then again, I wasn't aware your inspectors were also forensic experts and inspect nameplates on each component to confirm everything is original. They must inspect roughly 3 cars a year at that rate. You're right though, my comment doesn't help you in anyway, so I'll go talk to my wall now. Cheers. 
    • Say that to the guy that is going to fail your inspection or tow your car for illegal exhaust modifications. If you have anything else useful to say, please go tell your wall.
×
×
  • Create New...