Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

would like to upgrade to a better one but I have to sell my current car before I could effort it. car originally imported from Japan and I am the third owner and since that day I bought it, many things has been installed and upgraded.

1) Full bodykit. Front, rear and side

2) ROTA grid wheels 17inchx9 offset 25

3) Front using Falken tyre ZE912 changed less than 6 months ago 235/45/17

4) Rear using Kumho KU21 change less than 3 months ago 245/45/17

5) Genuine GTR spoiler

6) Carbon Fibre GTR grille

7) Genuine GTR indicator lights (front)

8) Genuine GTR badges front, rear and side

9) Genuine GTR instrumental gauge

10) MiNES ECU

11) Genuine Defi boost gauge and control unit

12) HKS EVC-iv Boost control

13) Titanium wheel nuts

14) HKS open pod filter

15) Front NISMO struct bar

16) Rear NISMO struct bar

17) 3inch CAT back exhaust

18) Vented Fibre front hood

19) Momo Gear Knob

20) Alpine Head unit IDA-X303

21) Soundwave 5inch speaker (front) including tweeters

22) Kicker 2 channel Amplifier

23) HID 6000K

24) Titanium tip 5 inch exhaust muffler

25) Turbo timer

26) Apex hybrid Intercooler

27) Smoked based headlights

29) Remote alarm system.

30) personalized plate that suite the car.

Basically the car has completed stage 1:

Open pod filter

Fuel Pump

intercooler

post-92698-0-55391300-1334628302_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-77017200-1334628396_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-43956500-1334628488_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-58431800-1334628513_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-07650700-1334628537_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-12248600-1334628585_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-99162800-1334628612_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-39987900-1334628727_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-77734600-1334628761_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-16987900-1334628786_thumb.jpg

post-92698-0-59665400-1334628815_thumb.jpg

Major service just done and regular service (every 7k) has always using PENRITE engine oil. there might be some stuff I LEFT OUT. too many mods to remember.

According to skyline experts and mechanic, it suppose to have 220KW or at least 300HP and above on wheels with STAGE 1 completed. But i have not really push the car to the limit as I do not like to trash my car like nobody business, is always well treated. Basically every equipment in this car are working perfectly Eg, power window, Heater, aircond .... there is no need to spend more money on this car for any repairing at least. Great car to MOD. VIEW TO BELIEVE! REGO UP TILL AUGUST!!!

ASKING PRICE: 14,500 INCLUDING RWC

Serious buyer only. Price is NEGOTIABLE

please contact me 04 3322

3002

ED

Edited by eddypwb

just incase u guys need more information regarding my car. visit the link as i have edit some of the information http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=12409226

sorry for any trouble caused as i have no idea how to I edit here.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Surely the merged entity will be called "Honda" given the relative company values. I've got to be honest, I don't understand how merging 2 companies that missed EVs (despite Nissan making the first mass produced one) will solve their problems
    • If you haven't bought the ECU yet, I would strongly consider buying a modern ECU. Yes it is very easy to setup and tune, however it is lacking many of the features of a modern ECU. The pro plug in is something like 10 or 12 years old now? Can't remember exactly but it is very dated now. In that time the Elite was released and now we have the Nexus platform.  I would strongly consider not buying the ECU that is 3 generations old now (especially as it isn't a cheap ECU!). 
    • Im happy for it as long as it means reanult gets the boot 
    • Sorry I should have been more clear with the previous post.  The block is a sanding block - picture something like this https://motorguard.com/product/motor-guard-bgr161-bgr16-1-rigid-psa-sanding-block-2-5-8-x-16/ The guide coat is the paint It's two separate things I was talking about, there is no "block guide coat". 
    • Maybe more accurately, you aren't just dulling the existing paint, you are giving the new paint something to 'grab on to'. By sanding the existing paint, you're creating a bunch of pores for the new paint to hook on to.  You can lay new paint over existing paint without sanding it, might last a year or two then sad times. The paint will peal/flake off in huge chunks. By sanding it, the new paint is able to hang onto it and won't flake off.  Depends on the primer you are using. When you buy your paint, as the paint supplier what grit of sand paper to use before you lay down the primer.  Use whatever you like as a guide coat. Pick a colour that really stands out in contrast to the paint. So say your sanding/painting a currently white car, using a black guide coat would work well. You very lightly lay the black guide coat down, then as you sand the car with the large block, all the high spots and low spots will stand out as the black paint is sanded off (or isn't sanded off).  When you buy your paint, hit up your supplier for recommendations for what paint to use for a guide coat if you're unsure what would work well with your setup. 
×
×
  • Create New...