M35 Stagea Brake Cut Off Mod?

[Commsman]

Found this. Looks like that signal is the opposite of what we want. Bummer 'cause that would have made it pretty easy.

Edited May 6, 2013 by Commsman

[scotty nm35]

How old was that post Craig? You gotta get out more...

I gave up on the anti lag, it didn't help much as the stally has been returned to a stock stator, and there is no possibility of it ever making boost. Yours would be a different story. I had plans to test another method to pre spool the turbo, compressed air, but this isn't the car to test that theory on. lol.

I can see mine going rwd manual very soon anyway which gets right around the launch issue. Or perhaps I will drop back to a highflow again for launch boosts, and so the gearbox isn't having quite so hard a time.

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

[Commsman]

Anyway, back on topic, the neutral signal will work one way or another, but if it's 12v then it will be a simple strip and twist, nice and easy for a DIY with pics. I will take some shots when I test this out on the next car. (Damn Leon, you beat me to it. Looks like we will need a relay.)

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

[scotty nm35]

Ok, I have a v35 to do this week, as he is living on borrowed time. (I have already cut the wire and not fitted the switch yet) I will try this out, hopefully it works.

[Commsman]

Do V35's have the same throttle limitation as our 25DET's? That's news to me.

[scotty nm35]

I know the 2.5 and 3.0 DD's do, they have the same ecu as us... Same plug...

[Commsman]

They must be slow off the mark then, lol.

[Roachy94]

Not anymore lol

[scotty nm35]

^^ This, 11.5:1 compression is always going to be better than a low compression turbo off boost.

[joshm35]

so has this been tried and tested yet??

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

Start sig on Pin42.JPG

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done

Simple brake wire mod.JPG

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

[joshm35]

would i need to install a diod if i went this option

2. Better because resets automatically. NB. Can use any temporary source of 12VDC.

Reverse light reset.JPG

[scotty nm35]

The hassle with any automation of this mod is it can take up to 10 seconds to reset I think.

I have another idea on how to do it but I have to design a simple circuit first.

[Commsman]

would i need to install a diod if i went this option

If you don't want to install a 'valet' switch then you don't need a diode when you connect any 12V source, be it from reverse lights, another pin on the ECU or anywhere else.

Ideally a 12V source close to ECU is best. Just need one that is 12V only at times when you don't need full throttle; eg reversing or starting the car.

The only location for reverse lights that I have found is at the rear, so not very convenient (although I already had a spare wire left over from TV install) & the start signal on the ECU is certainly convenient, but Scotty thinks it may not be active long enough to keep the code clear (although I think it should be OK 'cause when mine put out a CEL it would only take a few seconds with the switch thrown & pedal pushed to clear it).

Why don't you give it a go & let us know? If you do the mod you should know in 500km or so. Cutting one wire & joining it to another seems to be the simplest idea we've come up with so far.

[joshm35]

Ill try the pin 55 to 42

[Rudi_ARX-TURBO]

Ill try the pin 55 to 42

Hey josh,

let me know how you go interested in getting this done

[joshm35]

Will do. As leon said I should know within 500km

[Rudi_ARX-TURBO]

Will do. As leon said I should know within 500km

why 500k

[Daleo]

Because it will have looked for the brake wire signal & generally spotted a fault in that time.

Mine sometimes goes weeks without throwing the fault; so it can be a bit hit & miss.

[dasic1]

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

[Jetwreck]

Mine takes about 5 seconds to reset. Still worth trying it, as a quick supply of power might be enough to stop the light from coming on, instead of the few seconds to override the light.

One thing I have noticed is I get better fuel consumption with the light on.

You will.....it will go lean.