Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...

As im not one for cutting up factory wires and get plug in parts. It has come time to bite the bullet and do the brake cut mod. I am looking at doing it another way than what has been discussed previously. As my car has cruise control im looking at finding the wires associated with the on off switch on steering wheel cutting and terminating wire on the body side of ecu and connecting ecu wire to whichever cruise control wire becomes active when switch is turned on. If that does not work i have a switch i can solder in and run it to glove box

Just did it with a normal switch. On thinking about cruise control on off switch i would be limited to 30% throttle for the whole duration if i used the cruise control on a long drive may have been good for fuel consumption but i will never know

Just did it with a normal switch. On thinking about cruise control on off switch i would be limited to 30% throttle for the whole duration if i used the cruise control on a long drive may have been good for fuel consumption but i will never know

So have you done a test launch yet?

Watched the mighty car mods episode 12 of the double unicorn build. It touched base about the throttle restriction due to the atessa system in the wc's. I wonder if it's the same for us as we use that system? It was along the lines of g sensor and voltage sending info to the atessa which would tell the ecu how much power to send to the tranny etc..

  • 1 month later...

There may be a big smile on your face. There definitely was on mine. Takes a while to stall up but it does happen.

Till about 3 weeks ago I didn't bother stalling up for more than 1-2 seconds , have been and still am very happy with general pedal response coming of the brakes. However bout 3 weeks ago I was waiting at a very tricky roundabout and stalled up for longer with foot flat ...... damn!! the grin I had! back end lost traction front scrambled for grip and the darn thing shot off like never before.

Car is stock except constant high boost, brake mod and trans cooler. This of course has resulted in a special kitty being formed for serious mods to happen. It is (to me anyway) exceptional how well these things get off the line.

Yep well worth the back cramps leaning in to the firewall, cutting and connecting the wires.

It's surprising how lazy Nissan tuned this car given the weight of the thing.

At least they gave it decent factory boost.

Even my wife loves it more now after she drove it through the forests of Durras lakes with the brake cut switched off.

Good little spot here for a switch, in the passenger side utility compartment.

Towards the back of the compartment , there's plenty of clearance behind for the mech.

Very easy piece of trim to remove, 2 screws then jiggle out.

Better than glovebox I think , less chance of getting broken.

I think my tyres are wearing out quicker all a sudden ;)

post-25026-0-22656200-1461827210_thumb.jpg

  • 11 months later...

Dragging an old topic up. 

FYI, I have an AR-X that is 100% standard and I can get it to stall up on the brake to 3200rpm no problems, to the point that the rears start to spin. To my knowledge the mod hasn't been done as there are no CEL codes. 

Not too sure on how much boost its making but it leaves hard off the brake with no hesitation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok interesting i guess ill wait till using a manual gauge before making assumptions.
    • Not in any way a logical conclusion. Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup. Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage. It's a mess.
    • So didn't get around to installing a manual oil pressure gauge and then decided to take the car for a cruisey drive to a cars and coffee and brought the laptop along with to get another log using more gears to see if its an oil pressure issue under acceleration or after. this log has 3 gears of WOT where as previous had 2 and the oil pressure dropped once on the brakes, and the same again happens here which is interesting as it shows it can hold oil pressure while under acceleration but once slowing or just the lower RPM after a pull pressure drops. I will be chucking a manual oil pressure gauge on to confirm but so far this makes me feel it is not an electrical issue. Something else i realised is the pressure sensor also is giving temperature information and the temp stays steady the whole time which makes me feel like the sensor itself is showing a true pressure reading.
    • LOL.... fk...   there goes 25K to make 200kW
    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
×
×
  • Create New...