Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Relay will probably work as 0V is normally an earth, but sometimes it is just 0V.

But all is not lost for a dead simple solution. Why not use the Start signal on Pin 42? According to my research, that wire has 9-12V when key in start position & 0V otherwise. Sounds perfect, yes?

Start sig on Pin42.JPG

DIY instructions:

1) Cut wire on Pin55 a few inches from the ECU connector. Strip ECU end & tape up other end.

2) Strip small amount of insulation from wire on Pin42 (leaving wire intact).

3) Solder Pin55 wire (ECU side) onto Pin42 wire & tape up.

Job done :thumbsup:

Simple brake wire mod.JPG

Testing & pics are all yours Scotty. I'm not moving mine from where it is as works just fine, but the above is certainly an easier solution....if it performs as expected.

Does anyone know what colour combination wire 42 has

Manual says colour is SB ??

I may have time to check later, but pretty easy to locate it using the ECU pinout diagram. I use the pin positions with NO wires to orientate the drawing.

So you already had a CEL before making this connection?

There was some conjecture whether the duration of the 12V start signal would be long enough to cancel a CEL.

However it was hoped that if there wasn't a CEL, the start signal might be enough to keep it at bay. Do you want to cancel it & see if it comes back in next few hundred kms?

Cut wire 55 and drove great for a few days before cel came on, I have a scanner which normally resets any cel that appears but in this case it doesn't reset even with 55-42 joined. How hard is it to wire up to reverse lights?, is it just a matter of connecting the wire from ecu to wire on reverse lights??

Yes, just take a feed off the reverse lights (check for 12V when in Rev, & nothing when not) & put this into Pin55 on ECU.

Nothing else is required. NB, you may still get a CEL if you go for a long highway drive (I can leave home & not stop for 600km+), but under normal conditions you should go into reverse often enough - or stop at R for a few seconds on way to D, if utilising drive in-drive out parking a lot.

Yep, exactly the same.

Essentially I have this setup (as well as reverse lights) via a key switch.

When on it gives me the valet setting, ie 12V on pin55 permanently, to limit throttle.

When off it operates as normal & CEL is kept off by 12V from reverse lights.

If you had a 12V ignition source on a switch, you could leave it on when you drop the car to the mechanic. Then you'd be relatively sure the apprentice isn't going hooning on the test drive :)

  • 3 weeks later...

What wire number is it. Pin 59 ( 3rd set of pins) is pink with blue trace. 55 (middle set of pins ) is like a red with yellow trace. Is it pin 59 the brake signal in the pin setout a few pages back that I should be connecting reverse lights to??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I've been a little busy on this car. I replaced the bonnet struts which is always satisfying but very confusing that nobody else on the planet seems to do this. Its just my routine first thing I do on any car I buy. The boot struts for both the tailgate and the separately opening glass window was a bastard. And, I found a fair bit of rust in the strut cavity. I filled it with rust converter and cleaned up as much of the dirt as I could. There was so much dirt. One piece of the trim was barely hanging on and so I've left it off. I'll try to get a replacement. You can see how disgusting and dirty it all was in this thread; I had to remove the little clips that hold the struts on the ball. The ones I took off had no clips and it was impossible to get them on with them in place. Fingers crossed they stay put. So, I turned my attention to the headlights, they were in a bad way and likely would stop rego. I took the headlights out and found the adjusters were all just loose. So, I fixed those and unclipped the lenses to clean them up. Couldn't believe how easy it was to take all this apart compared to the E90.   I also cleaned up the stockies which was awesome, these are super cool with lug nut covers. They're in good nic but the tyres are shot. I was going to use these for rego but in the end got a fresh pair of rubber for the 17's on the front of the car instead. The front bar of this car is from a late(r) model one. I don't think it's quite LCI but who knows. I'll need to find out. Anyway, the bar was missing the fog lights and the wiring and plugs were for the original ones so I got new plugs and some cheap fogs. I wasn't sure if missing original equipment would hamper my blue slip attempts. Had a couple of these little fellas helping out. But not Ben who got stuck behind the pool heater .... How embarressment.  I ordered new speed sensors for all corners because I knew one was out. I just got cheapies and will replace them with Bosch items when I can find Bosch items. Again, this was just for rego. Alas, it seems the blue speed sensors are not the same as the grey ones. Back they went and replacements ordered. In the end, with my new scan tool, it was just rear left that was shot. Replaced it and cleared the codes. All good now. Lastly, my aux (thermo) fan is being a bit odd. Its powering up at strange times and NOT powering up when I think it should (100C). While this can be caused by a few things, the most likely (for me) is the ambient temp sensor. Given mine reads -40.0C regardless of the temp, I figured it would be good to replace it. In the end, the sensor wiring was abysmal with (terrible) attempts made by somebody to fix it.   I fixed this all up but the sensor is only attached using pins into the wires. The plug is not there. Despite trying and trying to connect it securely it wouldn't work so a replacement sensor and plug is on the way. Oh, I also ordered a replacement piece of trim for the part missing here at the bottom. Ordered from Latvia for $70 delivered. I took a bit of a leap of faith because I didn't have the exact part number and, as usual, there were eleventy billion pieces of trim that looked to fit. Nailed it. Well, its not totally perfect but I think its more a 28 y/o car problem than a trim problem. And, as of today ..... I have bought the workshop manuals 2nd hand off a guy in tassie. 1000+ pages of E39 goodness, hopefully it helps me with the fan. I also have a new temp switch on the way incase its the problem. Stoked.
    • I don't even know that you want an M2 Competition as a track car. My rule for a track car is only risk as much as you're willing to completely total out. Clean stock C5 Z06 Corvettes out here are cheap. Buying someone else's already ruined track car is even cheaper. Maybe I'm just not that good a driver but even a Fiesta ST on the Nordschleife felt like as much car as I could realistically handle.
    • I've already gone over the cam. A new one is going in. An old one is coming out! The new one is smaller, with less overlap. It has way more lift, but it will be more mild mannered (hopefully, probably very minorly) I'm also measuring for two more mufflers, with the goal of having four mufflers in my car. But that probably will be done by an exhaust shop in a drive in, measure, buy parts, install parts later kind of deal.
    • Mine is not even a GTR and I've been resisting the urge to make it a power monster for the last 25 years. And as a consequence, I have driven it to work nearly every day across that span of time.
    • Since the motor is out, I suggest pop in a nice dirty LS chop cam. MOAR of this please:  
×
×
  • Create New...