Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok I have a 1991 Skyline GTR with the RB26DETT motor and I am having some issues with the car. It all started when i first bought the car it had a cheap-o aftermarket intake and cheap-o blow off valves, which made the car run goofy ( rough idle ) , so i trashed the aftermarket intake and put the stock one back on and left the bov's the same. Here is where I encountered the problem.. I took it to a local shop and they said that one or both of the MAF sensors was bad so i ordered used ones from japan and put them on and it still didnt solve the problem.. so now when i get into boost a tiny bit like around 2500 rpm its almost like the car is fuel cutting..it jolts back and fourth so i have to keep it in a high gear to get anywhere.. even when i push in the clutch and push the gas pedal it wont go past 3000 rpm and it sounds like it has a 2 step rev limiter but i know for sure that it doesnt.. it started out only doing it every so often but its getting worse and worse..my thought it that it may be the fuel injectors? because it used to fuel cut when i was into high boost..here is a short video of what it is doing..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398083-91-skyline-gtr-fuel-cutting/
Share on other sites

should be afm, the 2500rpm is a safety measure if the afm voltages are playing up or they are broken. or even if you put z32/q45 afms in with a non compatible ecu.

replace em with a different pair, (borrow someones for a quick exchange) and im 99% sure it will fix that problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah it factory manual not sure about ratio but it looks like there’s been some work at the rear 
    • so I need a new speedo cable 
    • Throwing my spoon to the soup here a bit.  When I installed a 044 back in 2012, along with the direct power mod, the car became very difficult to start. To a point I burned one starter motor as I was late for work and tried to get the thing going. With some tuning and careful use of gas pedal when cranking it became bearable. Trying to make this short as possible, but the 044 died after 2-3 years, after which I went with an AEM 320lph pump, which also died after about 4 years to my dismay. After that I went with a Nismo pump, and while trying diagnose an emissions problem, I noticed for the first time that my fuel pressure was 5bar/72psi on idle, and that removing the vacuum line did nothing. After monitoring the situation, and removing the direct power feed and going back to FPCM in attempts to remedy it, I noticed there was fuel in the pressure regulator vac line. Kept the FPCM, installed AEM external regu and the car became sooo much better in every way, including starting. And I had driven it like it was for 11 years.. Anyway, I agree these are likely two different problems, and the FP problem you just haven't noticed before. I do not know much about haltecs, but what first came to mind was the CAS, which probably is not there any more. So how is the wiring from haltec to gauge cluster? How is the battery voltage and alternator?
    • Your car was auto before? You have different diff ratio (auto vs manual i think? or n/a and turbo?)
    • +1 for getting a screen off alibaba, CarPlay/Android Auto is vastly better than whatever navigation cars had 10 years ago. I got an Android screen for my 2015 BMW, huge difference. Fully compatible with factory stuff including iDrive controls.
×
×
  • Create New...