Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I got a new remote key but I can't program it according to the service manual of the G35, according to the manual, the hazard light should flash, however, instead flashing, all doors are unlocked, after that I follow the instructions but nothing, any idea? I followed this instructions.

1. Close and lock all doors with the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch.

2. Insert key into ignition and remove it from the ignition key cylinder at least six times within 10 seconds. Your Hazard

Lamps will flash if you have performed this step successfully. NOTE: Withdraw key completely from ignition cylinder

each time. If this procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter programming mode.

3. Insert key into the ignition cylinder and turn to the ACC position.

4. Within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the remote transmitter. Your Hazard Lamps should flash. NOTE: Do not press

the button more than one time in the above step. If the button is pressed more than one time, the programming

procedure will not be successful.

5. If there are any remaining transmitters (including the old ones), unlock then lock all doors using the driver’s side

power lock/unlock switch and within 5 seconds, push ANY button on the next remote. Your Hazard Lamps should

flash. Repeat this step for each transmitter (including any existing transmitters).

6. Turn the key to the OFF position, remove keys from the ignition, unlock doors using the driver’s side power lock/unlock switch and open the driver side door.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/398118-programming-remote-control/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...