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Your call but I don't think using two one time single four or six cylinder turbos is an economic reality- even if the turbos seem cheap and readily available .

I know Rexs are popular things for some but I'm not really than keen on the flat four concept with its factory cheaped out header system - the single scroll ones anyway . IMO the standard turbo systems on EJ20s are designed to cope with the screwy firing order of a lizard four and its lack of scavanging and low end torque . They started out with the TD05 to make power numbers but people bitched because they had , donns flack jacket , GTR type power delivery .

The TD04L was all about geting boost and torque at lower revs so Rex could get his tongue into gear without exploding . Loved that sickem Rex add BTW , lucky bastard ...

That aside no EJ20 TD04Ls would be hard to fit and as mentioned the mount flange is an unusual design - sort of asymetrical three bolt thing with the long section intended to get it out from underneath the turbo where you can get tools onto it .

The hassle with twins on RB26s is twice as much plumbing for the two dryers and it becomes a real snake pit even on std ones . Honestly with low mount twins I reckon anything but a bolt on replacement is a vary brave undertaking because of all the painstaking work to run the oil/water/air/exhaust plumbing .

I think you need to make a firm decision on a single or twins and go with something designed for the purpose if its twins . Sadly most of the high mount twins are big power big lag drag systems IMO and not something I'd want in a BMW .

I'm going to suggest a single GT3076R because it may have some reasonable response even if it doesn't make a squillion killowatts though it would make more than enough torque to destroy the tyres on a RWD Bimmer .

I'm not sure which era BM you have and the only M3 I've ever been near is an E36 , I think they use an all alloy 3L twin cam six with dual Vanos and ITBs . Arguably a bit more technology than an RB26 and the extra capacity doesn't hurt . Possibly not where you want to go but RB30s are probably the cheapest RB to get and in a RWD app with a sane state of tune not too shabby . IMO extra cubes and less extreme FI makes the nicest power .

A .

I'll burn in hell . Watch this and think - who needs an RB26 ...

Edited by discopotato03

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    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
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