Jump to content
SAU Community

Td04 Turbos On A Rb26


Bsa
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Your call but I don't think using two one time single four or six cylinder turbos is an economic reality- even if the turbos seem cheap and readily available .

I know Rexs are popular things for some but I'm not really than keen on the flat four concept with its factory cheaped out header system - the single scroll ones anyway . IMO the standard turbo systems on EJ20s are designed to cope with the screwy firing order of a lizard four and its lack of scavanging and low end torque . They started out with the TD05 to make power numbers but people bitched because they had , donns flack jacket , GTR type power delivery .

The TD04L was all about geting boost and torque at lower revs so Rex could get his tongue into gear without exploding . Loved that sickem Rex add BTW , lucky bastard ...

That aside no EJ20 TD04Ls would be hard to fit and as mentioned the mount flange is an unusual design - sort of asymetrical three bolt thing with the long section intended to get it out from underneath the turbo where you can get tools onto it .

The hassle with twins on RB26s is twice as much plumbing for the two dryers and it becomes a real snake pit even on std ones . Honestly with low mount twins I reckon anything but a bolt on replacement is a vary brave undertaking because of all the painstaking work to run the oil/water/air/exhaust plumbing .

I think you need to make a firm decision on a single or twins and go with something designed for the purpose if its twins . Sadly most of the high mount twins are big power big lag drag systems IMO and not something I'd want in a BMW .

I'm going to suggest a single GT3076R because it may have some reasonable response even if it doesn't make a squillion killowatts though it would make more than enough torque to destroy the tyres on a RWD Bimmer .

I'm not sure which era BM you have and the only M3 I've ever been near is an E36 , I think they use an all alloy 3L twin cam six with dual Vanos and ITBs . Arguably a bit more technology than an RB26 and the extra capacity doesn't hurt . Possibly not where you want to go but RB30s are probably the cheapest RB to get and in a RWD app with a sane state of tune not too shabby . IMO extra cubes and less extreme FI makes the nicest power .

A .

I'll burn in hell . Watch this and think - who needs an RB26 ...

Edited by discopotato03
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok so iv made my decision and I made cooler piping and started dumps to lock it in twins are happening even if it's harder I'm going a td serries turbos I'm sure I'll hear about it but I'm happy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The two diagrams are equivalent. The R32 one is just one sheet out of about 3 showing everything in the whole car all at once. And without knowing the functionality that occurs in the modules, they are both equally opaque.
    • 8v - 2.48ms 9v - 2.15ms 10v - 1.74ms 11v - 1.41ms 12v - 1.15ms 13v - 0.99ms 14v - 0.89ms 15v - 0.82ms 16v - 0.81ms I'm running these values on my RB20 Neo with 570cc Denso R35 stock jets and it's great. Also bought a set for my Legnum VR4, love these injectors!
    • Thanks for your reply,  Those blue/green wires running to the actuator aren't attached to anything, so I'm not sure how the central locking is still working. I will have to take a good look tomorrow, I don't have the car with me. After googling it seems like a pretty common aftermarket actuator which even uses the same green/blue wires the immobiliser required. i'll test everything tomorrow and if it's working i'll melt the solder, strip it, resolder and neaten it all up with some heat shrink. I don't have to understand it if it works hahaha I just don't want a fire/ short circuit. That R32 diagram looks more like a continuity chart? Can you make sense of this form the R34 manual? 10V is probably due to very flat battery, i'll recheck as well tomorrow, I did have to jump start it haha. Thanks again!  
    • So, COM doesn't mean comms. It means common. What common itself means will depend on the type of device. For a two directional actuator (ie, one that can push and pull on the same output rod) then the common will typically just be the earth connection. There will be at least 2 other wires. If you put 12V on one of the other wires, then the actuator will push. On the other 12V wire, it will pull. Can't quite make out what is going on with the wiring of your actuator. It appears to have several wires at the actuator plug, but there only appears to be 2 wires where its loom approaches the door control module, with at least one of the others cut off. I don't know these actuators off by heart. I'd have to look at a wiring diagram for one before knowing what the wires were about, and that's despite me having to replace one in my car not all that long ago. Just not interesting enough to have dedicated memory set aside for trivia like that any more. That actuator is an aftermarket one, not the original one, which probably died and was replaced. That might require some sort of bodge job on wiring to make it work. Although nothing should justify the bodginess of the bodge job done. As to the soldering job on the door module's loom plug. Ahhahhahaha. Yes, very nasty. Again, I cant tell you what any of those wires do. You'd need to study the R34 wiring diagram (if you can find one that shows the door module). I don't think I have any. I'd have to study the R32 diagram to start to understand what mine is doing, and again, even though I've had a problem with mine for the last 25 years (where it locks the passenger door when the driver's window reaches top or bottom of travel) I'm just not interested enough to try to to work it out. So long as it's not burning down, it's fine with me. Here's the R32 GTR diagram, which, confusingly, has rear door lock actuators and window motors on it!! As you can see, unless you understand the functions of the door lock timer and the power window amplifier, you'll never be able to work out how it works just from the diagram. I don't imagine that the R34 one is any better. Hopefully an R34 aware bod can help. FWIW, the two wires that are cut and joined look like they are both power supply - so hopefully it is not fatal to join them. The 10V you measured on the cut off free end of one of them is concerning. You'd expect 12V, and it might be the reason for the bodge job joining them together.
×
×
  • Create New...