Tips On Handling For A R33 Gtst?

[GRANDMA]

Hey guys, I'm new to this place so i hope i don't sound like a huge punter!

I have a R33 series 2 which currently has garage impul shocks and springs which are pretty average/worn out and not too much handling options other than that.

I have just purchased and installed a front Cusco strut brace to improve front rigidity.

I am looking into a new set of coil overs, whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear, and a complete bush kit for the suspension, (is there any place that makes a specialised bushes kit for a r33 GTST?)

So is there anything else i should be looking into other than sway bars, coils and bushes?

And yes i do have some good tyres coming along also as i know how critical they are.

Thanks guys!

[GTSBoy]

Whiteline low springs and Bilstein dampers. Look up the old Sydneykid group buy on these for some guidance. Or, your choice of coilovers (I don't care for coilovers, so I have no preference or recommendation).

Cusco (or other good brand) adjustable pillowball front caster arms.

Whiteline adjustable bush kit for the upper front control arms. There are other brands around too.

New OEM (or Hard Race or equivalent) rubber lower front control arm bushes (if you're feeling energetic and want to make it all new and good at the front). These will be softer and more pleasant than urethane lower bushes, but you could put urethane down there if you really hate yourself.

Whiteline 24mm adjustable front anti-roll bar with the heavy duty links.

Same anti-roll bar choice at the rear.

HICAS delete bar.

At least one set of adjustable rear upper arm bushes (one set will do the inner ends of the upper arms and the radius arms. Two sets does the outer ends as well, but is 300% more work to install).

New OEM (or Hard Race or equivalent) rubber lower control arm bushes. Same as the front, you can put urethane here, but it hurts.

At least a set of pineapples to lock up the subframe mounts. But if it were me starting from scratch, I would go straight to putting brand new replacement rubber bushes in (it's a fair bit of work).

Probably a set of diff bushes as well.

All this will cost you a fair bit of coin. This is about the minimum spend on a complete suspension overhaul to give you most of the adjustability you want/need and firm everything up to new or better condition. There are adjustable length upper arms available for both ends of the car that will give you more adjustment, firmer location and harsher ride. Also, more defectable, because anything with pillowball joints is not really road legal. Adjustable height coilovers have legality issues as well in a lot of states. There's not a lot of piont in adjustable height stuff anyway, because there's really only one height at whish Skylines handle the best anyway. Any lower is just for looks. All this adjustable stuff will rack up the costs over the basic kit too.

Bushes are available from Whiteline, SuperPro, Nolathane, etc. Not all of them do all of the bushes. Some of them are made by each other and sold under the different brands anyway.

[The Bogan]

http://www.wholesalesuspension.com.au/

http://www.heasmans....site3/main.html

If your is Sydney these places can help you out, be aware that most Jap suspension will be pretty firm to hard, you need to take this into concideration if your doing alot of street driving, Im running some bilstiens with king springs which are fine for the street and OK for the occasional track day.

I have adjustable whiteline bars which I find are very good.

I also have a HICAS lock bar which was needed because the HICAS had a mind of its own mid corner.

[GRANDMA]

Awesome, thankyou so much guys i really appreciate it.

I am going to do the HICAS very soon then, i'm not to keen on having the HICAS light flashing at me though, is there a certain fuse to pull to cut out JUST that warning light or..?

And i believe sway bars F&R will be on order VERY soon, cheers!

[GTSBoy]

Search and destroy every part of the HICAS system. Or, at least just the dash light!

[ARTZ]

Found a cheapy china hicas lock bar in my box of bits the other day

can anyone tell me if these are reliable?

[GRANDMA]

Ok, rear Whiteline swaybar is on its way along with a camber kit, adjustable too in 24mm.

When i install the rear sway kit ill rip the HICAS shit out and go for a slide!

I am struggling to find a whiteline 24mm front adjustable, i found a 27mm but i don't want to go too thick for understeer obviously.. options?

Cheers guys!

Edited April 21, 2012 by GRANDMA

[ARTZ]

If you want cornering grip you want a thicker front bar than the rear, so yes 27mm

If you want to slide, don't even get a front bar

[GTSBoy]

Not 100% true ARTZ. Thicker bar = reduced grip at that end of the car. To increase front end grip, you actually want a thinner bar.

Having said that, thinner doesn't necessarily mean "thinner than the bar at the other end of the car", because the specific thickness needed at each end depends on the specific car and the springs at each end (and a range of other factors). But anyway....I have a 24mm bar at the front of my R32 and a 24mm adjustable at the rear set to the softer setting, and it is verging on tail happiness. ie, it's very close to being just right. The R33 may be a wallowy boat by comparison to an R32, but they can't need that much more front bar (to really need a 27). A 27 just seems like it would be too stiff. Stiffness goes up by the 4th power of thickness and 27^4 is much bigger than 24^4 (it's 60% stiffer).

[zebra]

I ran a whiteline 24mm adj rear bar and the standard front (R33 gts-t)

and loved it, was very neutral

a lot of it is personal preference too

[Jonno34]

Ive heard great things about the sydneykid set up.

But if you're on a budget BC coilovers are pretty good! I've got them on my n/a 34 and I like them alot, not too stiff (got mine on nearly the softest setting though), but has a nice feel.

Quite sure many others have had good experiences with them, but just sharing mine

Good luck!

[BLITZ-26]

the cheap lock bars work fine, i have one in my drift car and have no issues with it, also have power sprit camber traction and castor rods and they have been fine and a lot cheaper than the jap brands, for my new car i will be getting the new GKtech arms should look at them for your ajustible bits get the above put some new bushes throughout i got superpro ones you can get everyone for the car just go to their website hicas lock bar and get a good alignment you will notice an amazing improvment just as i did

[ARTZ]

^^^ thanx

Yeah 27mm does seem excessive but that's what they offer

Could always get a 22mm rear

[The Bogan]

I remember reading that the 27mm is hollow and has the same strenght as the 24mm, ring Whiteline and ask...

[GRANDMA]

Ahh MLR that is very interesting.. I will give them a buzz very soon.

But yes, I am just under the impression that 27mm is just going to be TOO stiff and cause ridiculous understeer.

I am not doing this so much for drifting, more or less want to set-up a well balanced quick car for the hills.

Thanks for all the response guys!

[R32Abuser]

Sydneykid GB Whiteline/Bilstein Specs for R33 GTST

Please note the part numbers listed are the Whiteline Part No / Catologue numbers.

Either way, IMO, Sway bars are your biggest and best bang for buck handing modification to buy. As a bonus, they are an absolute piece of piss to install aswell!

Edited April 23, 2012 by R32Abuser

[Jonno34]

^The shocks/Springs are pretty good value for money too imo - cheaper than most coilovers.

[R32Abuser]

Too bad SK no longer resides on this forum . The damper valving complimented the spring and ARB setup amazingly.

I said to a mate the other day (as he complimented my SK setup in my R32 GTST) - You could always take a front and rear shock from someone who bought the SK shocks to a damper specialist with a shock dyno. Valve the shocks to mimic the damper curve of the SK units and you're done. Not hard. Just takes a little bit of R & D and most importantly money...

Cheers,

David