Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok guys I have wrote this up a few days ago and done Alot of research, my car at idle is bouncing from 1200rpm to 2000rpm, I have a r34 gtt, I've been reading all day and I've replaced the afm, didn't fix it, tried fiddling with the tps, it jst changes the idle rpm but stil was jumping, I think tps is the one closest to the radiator on the tb? Ok now I tried the one at the rear of the tb, and it didn't change the revs or how the engine ran at all, I tried disconnecting it and still didn't do anything so I'm guessing this is the problem? I'm hoping it is cos I'm hopeless at working on cars and if it is I'll be stoked with myself lol, of this is the problem can any1 tell me what this sensor is called so I can get another?

Pull all intercooler Pipes off, inlet manifold and checked for cracks/split hoses and anything else that doesn't look right, everything seems to be fine, I noticed the butterfly in the tb is open when the car is off? Not sure if that's correct or not? Car is not blowing any smoke and is still jumping while at idle and is consistent, no powerloss, the sensor on the front of the plenum does adjust the idle so I know that's still working, the one at the back still does nothing to the idle when playing with it, even of unplugged so I'm still guessing this is the problem, I notice there is a bit of blowby in the piping but not a lot, checked radiator fluid and the oil, put everything back to stock including stock boost solenoid and blow off valve, still nothing, checked vac lines, hose clamps, battery terminals, afm, plugs were done a month ago ngkbkr7es, cleaned pod filter, reset ecu, still go no idea

List everything you've done (I mean everything, mods, tweaks, servicing etc) between when the car was working properly (idled at normal revs), and now.

Take a look at the charcoal canister (black cylinder with 2 or 3 hoses connected) and see if you haven't blown one of the hoses off when you upped the boost pressure.

I don't know about RB25 Neo's, but I think NGK BKR7ES plugs could be the wrong ones (BCPR7ES might the correct one)

Checked the canister, all fine, pulled the main pipe that goes to front of the turbo off and no splits or holes, checked the alloy piping that goes into the induction pip and looks fine also, it has to be the sensor on the back of the plenum...

All I did was put the boost controller, I put it on backwards at first n hit fuel cut, I then switched it back n I was idling high, it then got worse n now it jst revs from 1200 to 2000 consistently on idle...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wow that's a steal, you've done well there. 
    • Exterior LEDs R34 2Dr R34 4Dr Position Lamp T10 T10 Winker front T20S T20S side T10 T10 rear T20S S25S150 Anti-hyfla relay TYPE3 TYPE3 tail T10 T20W Stop Lamps T20W T20W High Mount T16 T16 back T16 T20S number T10 T10 trunk T10 T10 Interior LED Item No.     Map Lamp BA9S single-sided     Room Lamps T10×31     Trunk Lamp T10     meter Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     Liquid crystal section T6.5 pedestal     Winker T6.5 pedestal     High Beam T6.5 pedestal     3 SERIES METER Early T6.5 pedestal     final T6.5 pedestal     NISMO T6.5 pedestal     air conditioner Early Liquid Crystal T3     Late LCD T4.2 Short     button T4.2 Middle     Hazard SW T3 Pedestal Short     Keyring T5     Cigar Socket T5
    • Howdy all,   I had my rb25det S2 rebuilt and finally started it today but have run into a few issues  Engine sounds like a a diesel easiest way to summarise like small ticking, gets louder when revs are slightly adjusted  The engine builder repainted the engine cover leaving no where for me to go off with lining up the CAS so have it as central as possible so not sure it that could be affecting it?, changed the gearbox fluid too but won’t seem to go into gear when running, and only 1 to 4 when off having a hard time finding 5th and reverse anyone got any ideas or a base for me to start off? much appreciated 
    • Well, no. It's an 023, which is pretty similar to an 040. Although it is hard to tell from the specs, as given.
    • Hmm. Maybe the (other thing I forgot about!) Haltech removes at least some, if not all, of the problem I described. I guess there is still the possibility of getting it wrong if the AC is set up/wired up for the Haltech as if it was in an R34 (simply because it's on a Neo), and that's playing foul with the R32 AC computer.
×
×
  • Create New...