Rb26 Into C34

[MattR]

hey all was looking at maybe 260RS stag but wondering if anyone has put RB26 in normal stag either RWD or 4WD. looking at this option and maybe hook up to auto, instead of 260RS'S manual.

been trying to find build threads but no luck. Ideally would be aiming for high 300's at the wheels with modded 26. that why would just get a nice tidy br25 and spend the saved cash over the 260RS on a nice solid RB26.

I had a 32R with 400 at the wheels so would love that in a wagon.

or should i just get a 260RS?? budgeting on around 30K

any help would be great

[Cowboy1600]

Rebuild an RB30 and put your RB25 head on it. Make an easy 300kw with plenty of room for more. It'll likely be cheaper than a 26 and eat a 26.

[Duncan]

I like how that cowboy thinks.

Keep in mind you will have troubles with the auto if you change computer (ie change to an rb26).

[KiwiRS4T]

If you want to keep the auto make sure you get a S2 Stagea so you can Nistune it or put a Link in.

I chose RB30 over 26DETT - even fairly stock it will have heaps of torque.

Mind you over here you can get a 260 for $14 to $18K which is what I would do if buying now.

[MattR]

Rebuild an RB30 and put your RB25 head on it. Make an easy 300kw with plenty of room for more. It'll likely be cheaper than a 26 and eat a 26.

like that idea, what are RB30's going for these days when you can find one?? what would rebuild be like compared to the 26??

[BigBoyDan]

like that idea, what are RB30's going for these days when you can find one?? what would rebuild be like compared to the 26??

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/388705-rb30-series-bare-2-block-with-crank-vgc/page__pid__6324588#entry6324588

[Cowboy1600]

like that idea, what are RB30's going for these days when you can find one?? what would rebuild be like compared to the 26??

You can pick up a long motor for like $50. Try and find a 25 head (~$500) then spend ~$5-8k rebuilding it and prepping a 25 head and you'll have tough 25/30 ready to drop in. Be likely cheaper than a 26 and will munch it.

My kingdom for a 25/30!

[MattR]

You can pick up a long motor for like $50. Try and find a 25 head (~$500) then spend ~$5-8k rebuilding it and prepping a 25 head and you'll have tough 25/30 ready to drop in. Be likely cheaper than a 26 and will munch it.

My kingdom for a 25/30!

ive heard lots of oil lines etc need to be changed when you use rb30 bottom end? wanted something simple? id take the head off the 25 that would be coming out.

i prefer the newer m35 stag's but read its harder to get good power out of them, and not sure what could be dropped in in there place?

[KiwiRS4T]

There is some work involved in building an RB30 but it can be done cheaply with stock parts to make 300 - 350kw (best option for you if you want to retain the auto trans) or rebored with forged pistons for about the same price as an RB26DETT but with the potential for 400 -500kw. The second hand RB26 will be an unknown quantity versus a rebuilt RB30 and so could end up costing much more.

My S1 RS4T only cost NZ$4500 so it was an easy choice for me but if you have to pay over $10k for one you may as well look for a 260RS

[Cowboy1600]

ive heard lots of oil lines etc need to be changed when you use rb30 bottom end? wanted something simple? id take the head off the 25 that would be coming out.

i prefer the newer m35 stag's but read its harder to get good power out of them, and not sure what could be dropped in in there place?

Oil lines is nothing. I think the 25/30 combo has been done so many times it's very easy to find someone who knows exactly what needs to be done.

The advantage of buying a second hand head now is you can prep it while still having your car on the road. Buy the head, have it cleaned, decked, polished, new seats, valves and springs and then do the required mods for the 30 block. Bolt it all together and then in a single weekend you can have the old donk out and the 25/30 installed. That way your car isn't off the road for 3 weeks while the head does the rounds. And you can then sell the complete 25 as a long motor and recoup your head costs.

If you can afford the $400-500 for the head it's the best way to go by a long way.

[MattR]

Oil lines is nothing. I think the 25/30 combo has been done so many times it's very easy to find someone who knows exactly what needs to be done.

The advantage of buying a second hand head now is you can prep it while still having your car on the road. Buy the head, have it cleaned, decked, polished, new seats, valves and springs and then do the required mods for the 30 block. Bolt it all together and then in a single weekend you can have the old donk out and the 25/30 installed. That way your car isn't off the road for 3 weeks while the head does the rounds. And you can then sell the complete 25 as a long motor and recoup your head costs.

If you can afford the $400-500 for the head it's the best way to go by a long way.

yeah that wouldnt be a problem and sounds good.

what if i decided to go M35? is it better to get the 25det or the newer 35 atmo and go from there. i do prefer the newer shape

[dirtyRS4]

I chose RB30 over 26DETT - even fairly stock it will have heaps of torque.

^^^ this guy he knows

[WgnZilla]

okay so, time to build a 25/30 haha

[Zorro]

The RB30 wont be as easy or as cheap as you think! (if you do it right) In retrospect I should have bought a 260RS!

Choose wisely & good luck!

[pipster11]

would probably work out ok just buying a rips rb25/30 direct as it will come with awd spacer and oil pickup sorted

plus you know they know what they are doing

i think the consensus now is that the neo head is better than the 26 head too

and if you run a neo head and loom you can run a nistune and keep the tiptronic

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Is there much difference between the 260rs driveline than a base model awd stagea..? Diffs, drive shafts etc.

[Zorro]

yeah, it is a bit. 260RS is a GTR! Front and rear diff ratios, rear diff, rear axles, sub frame, rear suspension mounting point on hubs, hicas and rear track width! Although the RS4S is quite similar!

The RIPS RB30's are very good but quite expensive, there are a few good engine builders here with RB30 experience that maybe worth talking to first, such as Lewis engines here in Adelaide!

My estimate is that you really wont be able to do it right for less than 20large, all things considered! (Im sure Bob & Rob can also attest to just how expensive a high powered 30 can be)

[Zorro]

Just for interests sake, an RB30 @ 7000rpm will pump the same amount of air as a RB26 @ 8100rpm or an RB25 @ 8400rpm.

(or 8000/ 9250/ 9600) Just something to think about!

[WHITER33GTS-T]

Im just trying to work out whats the best way to go. 260rs or RS4S then wreck a GTR for the driveline.

I think a 500awkw RB30 stag would be a awesome sleeper

[KiwiRS4T]

You can build an RB30/25 for $2000 or an RB30/26 for $30,000 depending on your requirements and abilities. I haven't kept a proper record but extras like a GT3540 for $2k and the Link supplied fitted and tuned $3k all add to what was a fairly basic stock (not forged) build but I would guess about $10k

Ask Duncan for Aussie costs - he did a forged and balanced engine with a cheap turbo which makes sense because its easier to upgrade the bolt-ons than rebore with forged pistons etc after the event (which is what I am looking at in a year or two) - although the non-forged option if done right is still good for 300 -350kw.

I have also managed to obtain quite cheaply over time the GTR gearbox, GTR LSD and axles but then splashed out $2k on brakes. I am sure if you could finance a 260RS and stick an RB30 block under the 26 head that would be the most cost effective (and you could probably sell the 26 short block).

Have a read of the RB30 section in the turbo upgrade sticky in the forced induction section - you will see some people with 280kw and you will also see what is required to make more than 500kw.

Or you could just buy this:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=462080106