Jump to content
SAU Community

Tuners In Geelong, Ballarat, Warnabool Etc

reeceo21

By reeceo21,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

reeceo21 Community Regular

reeceo21

Posted
Posted

Hey as stated can someone please tell me some first hand experience people have had with tuners in these sort of towns. Melbourne and adelaide are about 500k away from were i am and i get about 200-250k to a tank so cant really be bothered spending heaps on fuel ( have been suggested that my ecu might be the cause of bad fuel econ) anyways plan to get a tune and hopefully will fix fuel econ problems and also get moar powa ! The engine is an rb20 I have basic mods 3" zorst, big dump, free flow intake, FMIC, Platinum plugs, 600hp fuel pump, rb25 turbo with steel wheel would like to get tuned on 13,5 psi and hope for 180kw. Would like a remapped ecu but may get nistune as i have just sold my other car :P

Any suggestions ?

blk94r33 Mentor

blk94r33

Posted
Posted

You won't find anything locally who will do more than change the oil and say "don't know". DR. Drift and Creatd Motorsports (I think) di ECU remaps, but you can almost go full management for the price.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

U need to check all hoses and cooler pipes etc for leaks.

Then buy a new 02 sensor and install. The 02 sensor is in the dump pipe of the exhaust.

U can even try unplugging it first as a dud 02 sensor can be worse for fuel economy then no 02 sensor

Jasonr31 Enthusiast

Jasonr31

Posted
Posted

Theres a decent place in geelong called "geelong auto tune up" or similar. Have a mate whose had his s14 and 2jz r32 tuned there both with good results. I can try and get some details if you want. I'm originally from warrnambool and theres noone there that can tune anything jap.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

just out of curiousity, how important is the 02 sensor, will it make the car run rough, idle rough or will it just use alot of fuel?

I've never run one. Not important if the tune is good as you can get cruise nice and lean same as what a O2 would do.

My sard 700s are letting me down atm so only getting around 350-400km to a tank at best on the fwy, before that with stock injectors 600km to a tank wasn't a problem on a fwy. ID1000 (Bosch EV4) tune up a bit better so i could swap them and get some economy back if needed but i don't use the car that often so much of a muchness

reeceo21 Community Regular

reeceo21

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey guys i have had ALL the sensors checked all of them check out its ridiculous the mechanic thinks it may be the ecu its self causing the poor fuel economy. It runs incredibly just very rich. Anyways that would be great jason :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      braided lines for the turbos

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      For your application, where you'll be at that 1/2" size or perhaps larger, yeah, excellent. Although not if you need a tight bending radius anywhere, because the corrugated stuff is not anywhere near as flexible as rubber/teflon cored stuff. But for turbo oil lines? No. Too big. They just don't do the corro stuff down at the ~1/4" ID size that you'd want, and if they did the OD of it would probably be a bit too fat for fitting it into the tight spaces available. I use hoses like that all the time for fuel gases (LPG, NG) and liquid fuels (HFO, diesels, waste oils). When we did the London Olympic cauldron, with the 204 individual burners on it, we had miles of the stuff (although a lot of that was teflon core). A bunch of that crap is still cluttering up the workshop, more than 12 years later!
    • The Bogan
      braided lines for the turbos

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Would something like this be an option  https://processhose.com/products/configurable-metal-hoses/1-2-in-t316-stainless-steel-annular-corrugated-configurable-flexible-metal-hose-assembly-with-ends-t304-single-braid-masterflex-af5550.html I'm looking at this for replacing the OEM EGR when installing a aftermarket intake plenum 
    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      The once piece tail shafts with cv type joints on either end are the ones that end up vibrating and the vibration is caused by the cv joint binding as it turns, I’ve also seen them explode from the binding 
    • Kinkstaah
      braided lines for the turbos

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Unfortunately I am quite literally halfway across the globe. So all sources for parts like that are far away for me. What do you mean by that exactly?
×
×
  • Create New...