Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I've done heaps of divided turbo pipes, they do work but having done so many I also found a trick with the divider plate.

I leave a small section of the front turbos air path in plated, it allows some of the front turbos air to swirl around into the rear turbos path.

A customer of mine who is a fluid scientist type guy explained how making the front turbo swirl around the inside of the pipe before merging with the rear turbo helps promote a lamina flow and draw the air away from the compressor housing thus reducing the shuffle.

The mod does seem to improve the issue on all the cars I've ever done one for.

Can't hurt to give it a go.

Risking,

So if mine was to shuffle for some strange reason (people say it should be OK)....then to what level would the TT pipe mod cure the shuffling? Would it still be there a little bit or would it completely disappear?

Everyday I'm shuffling :D lol sorry had to throw that one in...

I've currently got t517z turbos and no TT pipe mod, no shuffle

I had the impression shuffling comes from bigger turbos (gtr-s, -10 etc)

LOL I've been waiting for that :D

Yeh same here. It's meant to happen with big efficient BB turbos that spool up a bit too much air down low and cause surging and stalling out of each other in a seesaw/back and forth fashion. That's how I understand it anyway :P Sort of similar to that shhh-shhh-shhh-shhh that it does when you back off the throttle very slowly at lowish RPM and on boost. ....i think.

I'm thinking I'll be fine.

Everyday I'm shuffling :D lol sorry had to throw that one in...

I've currently got t517z turbos and no TT pipe mod, no shuffle

I had the impression shuffling comes from bigger turbos (gtr-s, -10 etc)

What ECU do you have?

Ah damn, so there's probably a 50-50 split of people who've experienced shuffling and those who haven't with -9's

Ah there is one person in the thread, everyone else hasn't had an issue.

Not sure how that is a even split.

newb time... what exactly is shuffling and i'm assuming it's a bad thing from how this thread is referring to it?

As far as I know, shuffling is a thing where the two turbos will try to stall each other out down in low rpm ranges because they're creating too much air than what the engine can swallow. Both turbos are trying to force more air into the one overhead collecting pipe and that pressure will not always go to the intake mani but back down the other turbos xompress

Ah damn iPhone!

....was say that it will instead go back down the othe turbos compressor out let thus causing it to momentarily stall out. It's meant to happen with bigger, efficient bb turbos where the two turbs create too much boost down low...similar to surge. It's meant to give off a shoo shoo shoo sound when it happens...hope that helps ;)

I was thinking shuffle would happen easier with the smaller BB type turbs like the -7,-9 where they make boost very early in the rev range, say 2k-2.5k and the engine just simply cannot ingest that amount of air, and with the oem journals and the -5,-10 that do not start to make positive pressure so early it would not really be a problem.

With the -9s crusing along on 5th flat roads, just easing on the throttle at 2k ish is enough to make +ve pressure and you get shuffle. Ive never driven a car with -5s, but under the same conditions, does it make +ve pressure to induce shuffle?

I was thinking shuffle would happen easier with the smaller BB type turbs like the -7,-9 where they make boost very early in the rev range, say 2k-2.5k and the engine just simply cannot ingest that amount of air, and with the oem journals and the -5,-10 that do not start to make positive pressure so early it would not really be a problem.

With the -9s crusing along on 5th flat roads, just easing on the throttle at 2k ish is enough to make +ve pressure and you get shuffle. Ive never driven a car with -5s, but under the same conditions, does it make +ve pressure to induce shuffle?

That's all very true, just curious why in this particular thread you're the only one experiencing these problems? The majority seem to say that there're no issues with the smaller turbos in the GT2860 range.

Bearing in mind every set up is different and there are many factors that have to be considered eg. actuator preload(mine are f*ck tight) boost controller settings and as some have said tuning.....and hell, diff ratios for all I know

Also mine is not in a gtr, but everything is set up as normal beside for a 2.5" hot pipe from TT pipe to intercooler which I guess could be contributing.

Either way no biggie. There are some here who get it with oem turbs....

I've got gtrs, shuffle under higher load.

Went to a bigger exhaust, problems better.

Getting a modded TT pipe from risking soon, will report how that goes.

I've got a set of hks gt-rs on my 2.6l. 441awkw @ 24psi no shuffle at all. :)

Have had hks 2530s and no shuffle either all of this with no modification to twin turbo pipe or any other..

How did you get it to stop?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...