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On another GTR I have experienced the shuffle running gt-rs turbos. Still has stock twin turbo pipe. I might suggest changing it. But once you hit 3500-4000 its hang on.

I have a mate with -10s on his R and it shuffles its brains out. He refers to is as Darth Vader, pretty funny.

Surprisingly though, he notes that in the build stages he once had it tuned somewhere different to where it was tuned now and there was NO shuffle. He rekons the car was a lot quicker also but the dyno read lower. I think the fast/shuffle-less tune was about the 380kw mark where as Darth Vader is making the 400 mark.

That would go to say the tune has a lot to do with it, but thats about all the value I can really add :( Intake piping on that car is all stock bar a big drag cooler.

I have a mate with -10s on his R and it shuffles its brains out. He refers to is as Darth Vader, pretty funny.

Surprisingly though, he notes that in the build stages he once had it tuned somewhere different to where it was tuned now and there was NO shuffle. He rekons the car was a lot quicker also but the dyno read lower. I think the fast/shuffle-less tune was about the 380kw mark where as Darth Vader is making the 400 mark.

That would go to say the tune has a lot to do with it, but thats about all the value I can really add :( Intake piping on that car is all stock bar a big drag cooler.

So another vote for that the tune would have a lot to do with it? I'm guessing that tune wise, it's all about trying to get the engine to swallow as much air as posible down low to stay ahead of shuffle causing density. As soon as the engine can't use the air, that air has to leave somewhere else and that usually through a stalled out turbo. Well, when I bolt these on I want to take her down to Godzilla or the likes to get that tune.

When I first bought my car MOST of the shuffle was out of it. I put on a duel entry ARC cooler (and lost my BOV return pipe so the BOV's were blocked off) and that was an outright disaster with shuffling.

How did you get it to stop?

Got rid of the rubbish RS's. Would not go back to them if they paid me!

I didn't have it to begin with so I dont know how to get it to stop. My engine runs all the standard pipes/hoses on the hot side. Guess just with my engine package works for me. The engine swallows any compressed air.

It is just not like Piggaz's set up with a 2.8l which wasn't working and why he removed the HKS GT-RS and complaining that they are 'shit' but doesn't think that his engine is 'shit'.

I know it works for someone on a 2.6l. no shuffle whatsoever. ME! lol. :P

Edited by destrukshn

Dyno.jpg

All done on a 2.6l @ 24psi. Actuator was leaking at the time and couldnt hold the boost. Have since upgraded to 21psi actuators and have hit 400awkw @ 5000rpm @ 28psi on the same dyno then I had coilpack issues causing misfiring/gearbox was rattling. All these have been sorted and since then I havent had a chance to get it tested, but will be testing again once it goes RB30. :)

Edited by destrukshn

I like.

However, my goal is to just break the 400hp mark ;) That there is like 680hp or something!!!

Lots of -7 kits floating around..... -9's very rare, probably because people either don't buy them because they're more expensive than the other GT2860's or...because people don't sell them because they like them lol :P

What are you comparing? My point is just being with any right setup you shouldnt be getting any compressor surge. If you have the setup incorrect, then you may expect some.

I am just pointing out even with -10/GTRS i am not getting any surge. Doesnt matter how much power i am making.

Easy now peoples...I was just asking about shuffle at the stage....surge as we know is a lot more violent and the turbos I was looking at are too small and inefficient to cause this. Well I think they would be anyway :)

...except for a maybe a set of hybrid 2530's that I was looking at with enlarged compressor wheels

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