Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He's using Redline Lightweight Shockproof oil; it is blue in colour.

I recently installed an NPC 10" organic in mine; they rate this clutch to 300rwkw (I'm currently 250-260) and the pedal is half as light as the Exedy cushion button I replaced with it. Say goodbye to my left leg muscle! It does bite firmly when you get to that pick up point, though :)

Yeah the NPC feels as if it's broken, it's so light for a sports/race/enthusiast clutch. I honestly thought the fork slipped off the thrush bearing and I was shtting bricks.

So far it's pretty good, unfortunately the R33 I own now is stock (for now) so I can't really punish the clutch.

How do you like daily driving the button clutch? is that cushion button so you can have some slip with it?

I'm still tossing up between going their organic or button will only be putting out 270rwkw when tuned and car is mostly daily driven just when I do drift it I want to know kicking it won't be an issue. I also don't drive heaps or cop lots of traffic driving so I don't think a button clutch would be a major problem but do like drivability at same time cause i'm a big girl

Dont be crazy with it yet. I ran mine in for 1000km as suggested (no major clutch slipping or launches) and I dont know if it makes a difference but I'd rather listen to what NPC told me and follow their procedure

I dont know if mine felt THAT soft lol, think its a bit harder then stock but def nicer then the exedy

How do you like daily driving the button clutch? is that cushion button so you can have some slip with it?

I'm still tossing up between going their organic or button will only be putting out 270rwkw when tuned and car is mostly daily driven just when I do drift it I want to know kicking it won't be an issue. I also don't drive heaps or cop lots of traffic driving so I don't think a button clutch would be a major problem but do like drivability at same time cause i'm a big girl

If you're drifting, an organic clutch is bit of a no no, you'll fry it. On my previous R33, I made about 250rwkWs and I toasted an organic within 1.5 years of owning it. I then moved to Exedy Sports Ceramic from a R32 GT-R, that lasted till I sold the car (probably still going strong), however it was crap to drive. Wasn't fun, especially with the stock slave, after upgrading to a larger Nismo item it felt better, but still not that great compared to this NPC clutch. It's very light, nearly as light as stock and more easier to slip and drive.

Saying that, I've always tend to just give it some revs and drop it to get the car going. I know it's jerky, but it's going to save me going under the car and do a clutch again on the floor.

Edited by johnnilicte

I have a 10" carbotic button clutch from NPC in my gtr. I never saw easy driving from day 1. Only time will tell how well it will last, but 5000km and its still going strong. I drive my car every day in stop start bullshit and there is no problem. Just use the friendly handbrake when on a hill. In these early mornings it loves to chatter and bite harder than when it warms up.

So far it has held 10 launches and many wot runs. I recommend them.

the reason the NPC clutches are lighter then other sport clutches is due to the 10 inch pressure plate and larger spring area.

i have a 180sx with an RB30e+t and NPC organic clutch with rb20 box... i drift it and clutch holds up well, that makes around 200 rwkw

I am going to give him a call to sugest something to hold 500kw dont know if i am looking at twin plate territory

Definitely twin plate territory.

Most of the Japanese twinplates won't even hold that much power for long due to them using tiny clutch plates

NPC sprung centre cushion twin is the way to go. Drives like a toyota hi-ace and will hold 1khp to the ground

Just an update, after 1 tank of fuel later the clutch feels much better.

I still am totally impressed with the pedal feel, but it is a tad bitey. I tried going up a car park ramp, I looked like a total idiot LOL

Just an update, after 1 tank of fuel later the clutch feels much better.

I still am totally impressed with the pedal feel, but it is a tad bitey. I tried going up a car park ramp, I looked like a total idiot LOL

Yeah after a long drive yesterday mine is feeling so much better.

  • 2 weeks later...

I just got a clutch from KB clutches in Sydney.

He was a really nice bloke that asked everything to do with the car and the power/rpm/use

Managed to pick something up for $410 including postage to ACT

Only time will tell if it holds up or not.

But I currently am pushing around 240-250rwkw

i got my 300 RWKW clutch from KB aswell, held out with no issues and came with few exeddy bits too, i paid 440 delivered to SA

  • 2 weeks later...

Just an update, clutch seems to be more easier to drive or it just could be me getting used to it. Still need to chirp the wheels a tad getting up ramps when I'm stationary, but much easier than my old car with the Exedy Sports Ceramic.

Getting my NPC 10" carbotic clutch installed tomorrow. Will see how shit i am at launching it when the drags open up in a few months. Current excedy ceramic button lasted 2 years of every day driving, skidpan days, drag nights, clutch kicks, etc. This NPC one holds 450rwhp im told, so should keep me happy for a while!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So recently at the track had experienced a loss of throttle after a period of WOT after installing the emtron ecu, recently did some logging to troubleshoot the issue and found the ECU was cutting due to a low oil pressure issue. Going over the log can see that while accelerating at 4k rpm will see 100 PSI of pressure and holding steady at that level until getting off the throttle which then after can see as low as 25 PSI at 3-4k rpm and will recover back to a normal level after that.   Wondering if anyone has an idea what could be the cause as it just feels abit strange and i dont feel like it could be a sensor issues just due to it clearly sitting at a good pressure until off throttle, in the attached can see a 3rd and 4th gear pull but can even perform great through 3 and 4 gears of WOT but still once off throttle and getting back on it will see pressure drop.
    • There are a few different ways of doing it. I'm currently running two 1000cc pre-TB nozzles and PWM the pump for control. I'll be moving over to a constant pressure system and direct port. I'll run the pump off a regular relay, have it cycle on roughly 5psi before I start injecting to build pressure and then PWM a WMI solenoid (It's basically an injector that can take a lot of pressure and not corrode with water and meth.) The solenoid feeds the 6 direct port ~200cc nozzles. I'll also keep one ~250cc pre-TB nozzle to help keep IAT's in check.  Safety will be a little different as well. I used to use a pressure switch but will be moving over to a pressure sensor between my solenoid and nozzles. I'll trigger my solenoid and if I don't see specific pressure within a specific timeframe (e.g 100psi within a second, 175psi within 2 seconds), I kill it and revert back to non WMI maps the same way I did it before with 4D in Haltech. I was just figuring out the timers in my ecu last night. They made that a little more complicated than I would have liked... I wish Haltech offered a larger set of logic/math functions like other ecu's do. I can't do very much with just AND's and OR's.  I've been asked to do fuel/ignition mapping on a medium bore engine at work in May (192L V16). Being the only programmer in my region and having went and opened my mouth about knowing the ins and outs of fuel/ignition mapping, I have now been deemed an expert. Fun fun. The entirety of the logic and algorithms are programmed in C on a PLC. As I spend more time figuring it all out, I like what I see and eventually I may consider doing the same as a pet project to replace my ecu.   
    • This would be interesting, would you feed it via a 2nd row of injectors? Or just usual WMI nozzles?
    • Cut sump up and extend. Win win 😂 
    • All, What's the recommended torque for the 1/2 head studs for RB30 twin cam conversion with RB26 head?  
×
×
  • Create New...