Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I use mine every 3rd night? not too bad. I just drop it at around 1700rpm, I don't bother driving it smooth (clutch will last longer). Up the car park ramp at my gym is gold, there's a speed hump midway up. I usually just handbrake then chirp it over, people think I am retarded.

Because race car :P

Sweet, thanks guys! More parts i didnt budget for...... Car has done 1500kms since tune and has killed coilovers and clutch so far, what next? (Nobody answer that, Flamin Mongrels) lol

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its no pig its a dream to drive man, you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class

done a few thousand on my Carbotic now Mat..2 track days..

Its a dream to drive man you won't be disappointed at all

unless you prefer grumpy old man clutches...why anyone would want one or one of those crappy rattly metal things is beyond me.

.The NPC is all class :D

Ah sweet! Thanks for that :D

Has it still got a good pedal feel etc? Apparently he said mine will be modified as ill aim for 400kw eventually.... :yes:

I slip my 10' NPC every time I take off, I know its not the best for the clutch but I'm 2 years in and its still showing no signs of slipping.

There a quality product thats for sure. I'll have a look at mine when the engine comes out of my car in the last half of this year.

Can always send it back for a rebuild anyway

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

I also did some calling around apparently confusing ppl when i called after matt had lol .... but i have the silver plated excedy comp clutch abd jim berry said its a good bit of gear and he can build it to handle 450kw + with a 10" or bigger something and solid centre carbon thingo ?? sounds good he built my mates cusco hyper angle and its amazing and handles all the clutch kicking he can thor at it withh 300 odd kw so might go down that path

LOL, i spoke to Jim for nearly 2 hours yesterday man!

He said they will be a pretty tough bit of gear, mine will be different specs to yours though as ill be on the road more than track :P

I got that Exedy Silver NC10T push pressure plate from a R32 GT-R if you want it, it's 1.1 tonnes

Problem is your GT-t is Pull not Push, unless you want to convert it to a push setup. Cheaper in the end.

  • 1 year later...

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

I pulled my NPC when I did my engine change out. decided to get it rebuilt rather then having to pull the gearbox out later on if it started slipping. Have to say, the clutch looked great, no marks/hot spots etc on the flywheel or pressure plate and the friction material, besides being worn, looked great. Best looking clutch I've ever pulled out of a car. Could have gone back in but was running low on friction material so thought I'd start fresh

They were very helpful and quick rebuilding the clutch to. Sent it away Thursday I think, had it back on Tuesday or wednesday.

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Mine should have been similar in design i guess and after 5000km it also looked brand new... I would go with Callans suggestion and just get a freshen up, its just new pads and a quick clean up most likely... Could be other causes for the premature wear though not necessarily the clutch itself, grease or oil contaminating it etc... Only way to know is to pull it out and have a squizz!

I ran 255rwkw for pretty much the whole time I had the clutch in, and I daily drive it and slip it on the street a fair bit. So I'd say if the wear on mine was excessive then it was to be expected. I dont think it was terribly worn but, should have measured how much material was left and compared to new.

The rebuild is basically a complete new clutch. The pressure plate I think was brand new and they just removed and replaced the pads on the clutch plate, must have checked the springs etc and the spline as well but this wasnt replaced (all looked good when I pulled it out so not suprised)

All up it cost me just shy of $500 with a new throwout bearing and express delivery, so while thats not 'cheap' its not to bad for a new clutch considering new ones are up near $800 now I think?

This is all my NPC gear reconditioned:

20131120_135325_zps0pnz4ghv.jpg

20131120_135331_zpsmrinauhs.jpg

20131120_135043_zpstlb27war.jpg

Edited by 89CAL

I'm just a little concerned about the premature wear, especially my car isn't make more than 200kW

Might pull out the box next weekend whilst I fit the new turbo :)

Yep good plan! There is no way its power related and it shouldnt wear that quick unless its been driven like shit...

Pull it out and report your findings :P

#strongbump

So yeah, I've had my NPC clutch for nearly 2 years, about 15 000 km & 3 track days..

It's starting to slip!

In 4th when you mash the pedal it will slip a little/shudder then bite & my friction point is quite high up. It engages in the last 1cm or so.

I think it's dead, maybe my mates have ridden it to death :(

How long has your NPC carbotic lasted?

Just copper mix it and be done with it. If you did it in the first place you would have to pull the box out again! :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...